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Old Jan 08, 2012, 01:23 PM
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Daryoon's Avatar
San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
6,632 Posts
I thought the same last January. Received a 2ch ir toy heli for Christmas. The first week of January, I was researching. Ended up ordering a Solo Pro and mCX2. The Solo Pro arrived first. So much fun learning to fly that thing. When the mCX2 arrived...it felt waaaaaaaay too slow. So it pretty much sat on the shelf from that point on.

Then I eventually got a 9958 and a couple of mSR. The mSR was too expensive to own. Parts were pricey and added up. Both mSR didn't like to turn left when in fast forward flight indoors. And IMHO, the piro was too sensitive.

The 9958 with the cheap parts was just the right amount of fun. The cheap parts lend to tinkering with mods and such to customize it's flight behavior to my liking. Plus, it was a good price point to gift and get friends into the hobby. Made the hobby even more enjoyable for me.

Now I have the v911 on the way as well. And it's cheap parts and ability to bind to my Turnigy 9x radio is a big positive.

I am interested in the mSRX as well. But sounds like a bunch of issue. If it's like the mCPX...I'll wait for the version 2 revision. Or possibly the clones to come out later this year.

Edit to add:
I think you should be fine with the v911 for a while. But personally, if I were to go with a coaxial...and am not tied down to the looks of the Bravo III and mCX2 already on your shortlist, try and find the Force Helis by Blade.

They cleared it out at $99 for the two pack. Plus, it came with spares parts. Unfortunately that deal is all sold out on Horizon Hobby's site. See if you can find it locally or elsewhere. Horizon Hobby said they have discontinued it, but at $99, it's a great deal. Plus, lots of fun with the IR guns. You can take that off if you need to make things lighter though. It's essentially a mCX2 in flight characteristic. So that's another option to consider.

Happy hunting!
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 01:40 PM
Registered User
Romania, TM, Timisoara
Joined Aug 2011
125 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cwall64 View Post
I just purchased a mCX2 BNF yesterday and I notice that after takeoff going into a hover the tail/rudder seems to vibrate quite a lot. Is this normal?
It vibrates, more if the heli itself vibrates (something unbalanced in the moving parts), less if you tweak the heli a little.

In short, assuming you are not afraid of taking the thing apart and modifying it:

- hold the heli in hand, start engine (about 1/4, not too high, don't drop it and don't get you fingers near the blades), feel how much it vibrates. Try to balance the flybar - use tiny pieces of adhesive tape in the flybar weight, see if you can reduce the vibration. Same with the blades.

- reduce the loosage (not sure of the correct word) in the servo-swash-lower rotor assembly - use small o-rings on the swash and lower rotor links (on msrx and mcpx they already do that on some of the links - place one before you pop back the link on the swash and the bade - total 4 on swash, 2 on blade). Don't touch the flybar and upper blade, this part must move as freely as possible or else you'll get TBE.

- while on it, use shrink tube or whatever you have on the canopy holders (cut like 3mm shorter as the holders) to keep the canopy away from the gears.

If I'm not clear, let me know and I'll try to make some photos.
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 01:44 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2011
17 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
I thought the same last January. Received a 2ch ir toy heli for Christmas. The first week of January, I was researching. Ended up ordering a Solo Pro and mCX2. The Solo Pro arrived first. So much fun learning to fly that thing. When the mCX2 arrived...it felt waaaaaaaay too slow. So it pretty much sat on the shelf from that point on.

Then I eventually got a 9958 and a couple of mSR. The mSR was too expensive to own. Parts were pricey and added up. Both mSR didn't like to turn left when in fast forward flight indoors. And IMHO, the piro was too sensitive.

The 9958 with the cheap parts was just the right amount of fun. The cheap parts lend to tinkering with mods and such to customize it's flight behavior to my liking. Plus, it was a good price point to gift and get friends into the hobby. Made the hobby even more enjoyable for me.

Now I have the v911 on the way as well. And it's cheap parts and ability to bind to my Turnigy 9x radio is a big positive.

I am interested in the mSRX as well. But sounds like a bunch of issue. If it's like the mCPX...I'll wait for the version 2 revision. Or possibly the clones to come out later this year.

Edit to add:
I think you should be fine with the v911 for a while. But personally, if I were to go with a coaxial...and am not tied down to the looks of the Bravo III and mCX2 already on your shortlist, try and find the Force Helis by Blade.

They cleared it out at $99 for the two pack. Plus, it came with spares parts. Unfortunately that deal is all sold out on Horizon Hobby's site. See if you can find it locally or elsewhere. Horizon Hobby said they have discontinued it, but at $99, it's a great deal. Plus, lots of fun with the IR guns. You can take that off if you need to make things lighter though. It's essentially a mCX2 in flight characteristic. So that's another option to consider.

Happy hunting!
Sounds like we are on the same page and believe me I searched for the force heli"s and can not find them anywhere. Guess I was a little late to the party to get in on that one. Not tied to the looks of any coaxial just want one that's super durable has parts support, and relatively fun to fly. Thanks for the input
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 04:07 PM
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Brian VT's Avatar
United States, VT, Rutland
Joined Dec 2011
537 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by danb1974 View Post
- while on it, use shrink tube or whatever you have on the canopy holders (cut like 3mm shorter as the holders) to keep the canopy away from the gears.
If I'm not clear, let me know and I'll try to make some photos.
Good idea. I suspected that mine might be rubbing so I cut it away. Your idea is less crude.
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 04:14 PM
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United States, VT, Rutland
Joined Dec 2011
537 Posts
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Originally Posted by valiantGLX View Post
...my DX6i. I even have settings stored on a seperate model number for my Girlfriend to fly, it barely moves lol, but saves her from crashing any of my little gems
That's a great idea and also a good selling point. There's always someone that wants to try when you're flying and you sound like a jerk if you tell them that they'll just crash and break it. Instead, you can just switch to NEWB mode and let them have a go at it with less risk.
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 04:33 PM
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Mickmeister's Avatar
Joined Oct 2010
229 Posts
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Originally Posted by Brian VT View Post
That's a great idea and also a good selling point. There's always someone that wants to try when you're flying and you sound like a jerk if you tell them that they'll just crash and break it. Instead, you can just switch to NEWB mode and let them have a go at it with less risk.
Or do what I did...get a couple of Syma S107s. Those are my "company helicopters" - there's no way I'd let a newb fly my MCX2 (which has custom-installed TinyBrite lights that took me a week to hook up!). The 107s cost me about thirty bucks a piece (not including the inevitable replacement parts), and I don't have to feel guilty about everyone watching me play with my toys!
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 06:21 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
7,567 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by valiantGLX View Post
snip

So instead of wasting money on things such as DX4s that you are only going to try to sell after a month or two, as you will be itching to upgrade again, why not start with the best.

snip
But if you're coming into this hobby from scratch and making your first sub micro heli purchase and looking at the Blade line of products but your current budget constraints rule out the purchase of something like a DX6i + heli, and you find yourself in a position where you have a choice between purchasing a RTF mCX2 with stock transmitter or a BNF mCX2 with DX4e for the same total cost, would you not choose the latter? I don't see any logical reason why you wouldn't... especially when you would have no problem selling that DX4e later to put toward something like a DX6i when budget allows while probably getting back every dime of that $30 ("same total cost" dictates that you paid $30 for the Tx) you paid for the DX4e, a transmitter that admittedly is no DX6i but has several clear advantages over something like the RTF mcx2 one.

The reason I wanted to point this out is I have a hunch the poster might be enquiring because of the recent discussion here in this thread I had with another member who, like myself, has in fact found himself in this exact situation. I lucked out finding a brand new never used DX4e locally for $30 and bought a BNF mCX2. The member I had the discussion with found himself in a similar situation.
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 06:52 PM
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cwall64's Avatar
United States, TX, Houston
Joined Dec 2011
25 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by danb1974 View Post
It vibrates, more if the heli itself vibrates (something unbalanced in the moving parts), less if you tweak the heli a little.

In short, assuming you are not afraid of taking the thing apart and modifying it:

- hold the heli in hand, start engine (about 1/4, not too high, don't drop it and don't get you fingers near the blades), feel how much it vibrates. Try to balance the flybar - use tiny pieces of adhesive tape in the flybar weight, see if you can reduce the vibration. Same with the blades.

- reduce the loosage (not sure of the correct word) in the servo-swash-lower rotor assembly - use small o-rings on the swash and lower rotor links (on msrx and mcpx they already do that on some of the links - place one before you pop back the link on the swash and the bade - total 4 on swash, 2 on blade). Don't touch the flybar and upper blade, this part must move as freely as possible or else you'll get TBE.

- while on it, use shrink tube or whatever you have on the canopy holders (cut like 3mm shorter as the holders) to keep the canopy away from the gears.

If I'm not clear, let me know and I'll try to make some photos.
Thanks for all of the information. I'll take a look at it tonight.
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 08:04 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
7,567 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cwall64 View Post
I just purchased a mCX2 BNF yesterday and I notice that after takeoff going into a hover the tail/rudder seems to vibrate quite a lot. Is this normal? My little S107 from the mall doesn't vibrate like that. I landed and checked for missing/broken parts but couldn't find any...
Besides the stuff that was just mentioned, I'll add this...

I put the Carbon Fibre Tail Boom on mine and instantly had the tail shudder/vibration... I was even expecting it from all the reading about it I came across and videos I saw on the mcx2. I also know that the CF boom vibration is a symptom and not the cause of the vibrating which means the vibrating and/or its cause is still there when the full body tail is on, it's just dampened and not as visibly obvious... so, although the following is what I did to solve the problem (mostly) when observed using the CF boom, it still applies to the full body tail...

The most common cause I came across among owners was the bottom of the main shaft pressing against the crossbar of the battery cage. That little crossbar is there to put some pressure against the battery so it doesn't want to slide around or slip out during flight. When the battery is inserted, that crossbar naturally wants to bend up toward the exposed bottom of the heli's main shaft... in some cases, like mine, the main shaft extends so far down and past the little retaining collar that it will rub against that battery crossbar in flight. Even if it looks like there is a bit of space between them, if there is any vertical play at all in the main shaft it will ride up and down during flight and if there was little clearance between it and the crossbar to begin with it will most likely actually be hitting it when spun up and moving up and down. A member here suggest I file down the bottom of the shaft which I did with a Dremel (I took it right to the retaining collar, there is now no length of shaft extending past it at all) and this seemed to fix most of the problem. By the way, the other way to get that crossbar away from the shaft is to lower the skid and there are various ways to do that but I didn't like that method... shortening the shaft just seemed like an easier and cleaner way to accomplish the desired goal.

But I still had the vibration sporadically in flight but at least it wasn't constant anymore. So I then tackled the next common cause I came across which I've already mentioned which is vertical play in the main shaft. I watched a video where the simple solution to that problem is to make sure the main gears and bottom retaining collar are pushed on tight removing any vertical play... you can easily do this by pushing your finger down on the top of the shaft (flybar end) while using a nut driver or small socket to push against the lower main gear from the bottom and you can then use a smaller socket to push the retaining collar up as well (it does have 2 screws to loosen, slide and re-tighten but I just chose to push it up with the small socket). This was successful in getting rid of most of the remaining vibration/shudder.

My final tweaking was specific to the CF Tail Boom and wouldn't apply to the fully body tail and involved very specific positioning of the little weight on the boom where I found placing at a position others had success with would prevent most of the odd sporadic remaining vibration in flight (mostly during rudder input)... which is within 3/4" of the frame... mine actually needs to be closer to about 1/2" ... unfortunately this means I also have to have my elevator trim maxed out for no forward movement in a hover, which I still don't quite have with the weight in that position but I can live with that..

Doing all this has gotten rid of maybe 75 - 85% of the issue but hasn't completely eliminated it. And it's been suggested to me that it probably never will be completely eliminated altogether and that it's just the nature of the beast. I've even observed about the same amount of vibration as I'm now left with in Horizon's own videos of the mcx2 with CF Tail Boom.

I might now try some of the things others have just mentioned to see if I can at least get rid of some of the remaining vibration... if not, I can live with what I have.
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 10:07 PM
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Canada, QC, Châteauguay
Joined Jan 2012
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I guess I'm starting to fall out of the "newb" class... not much but...

I started noticing today that getting my heli to go forward wasn't working the way it should be. I started to adjust the "elevator" trim button the way the manual, videos and guys here told me how to do it. It wasn't working. It would really come back fast but going forward just wasn't doing it no matter how much trim I gave it. I was getting ready to post here, asking for a solution.

Well... I found the solution. There is one of the... I'm not sure what it is called... let's say it is a universal joint... (I'm sure someone will correct me on the proper name for it) that goes on the little ball on the flybar. I've lost one, probably due to all the crashes it has had during the the first couple of days of flying. And of course, being so new at this, I really didn't even notice it as all I was trying to do was to keep it in a stable hover. But... as I'm progressing, I'm starting to see a lot more other things instead of just trying to keep it flying without hitting the walls or the floor.

And so I'll be off to the LHS first thing in the morning. I'm very fortunate that my shop is just 10 mintues up the road. I'm also lucky that they have all the parts for the mCX2... this was a selling point that the guy there kept repeating to me when I bought it. I couldn't understand why that would be such a big deal. After all... all I was going to do is fly it... why would I need parts????
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 10:17 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
7,567 Posts
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Originally Posted by bubbaloo158 View Post
I guess I'm starting to fall out of the "newb" class... not much but...

I started noticing today that getting my heli to go forward wasn't working the way it should be. I started to adjust the "elevator" trim button the way the manual, videos and guys here told me how to do it. It wasn't working. It would really come back fast but going forward just wasn't doing it no matter how much trim I gave it. I was getting ready to post here, asking for a solution.

Well... I found the solution. There is one of the... I'm not sure what it is called... let's say it is a universal joint... (I'm sure someone will correct me on the proper name for it) that goes on the little ball on the flybar. I've lost one, probably due to all the crashes it has had during the the first couple of days of flying. And of course, being so new at this, I really didn't even notice it as all I was trying to do was to keep it in a stable hover. But... as I'm progressing, I'm starting to see a lot more other things instead of just trying to keep it flying without hitting the walls or the floor.

And so I'll be off to the LHS first thing in the morning. I'm very fortunate that my shop is just 10 mintues up the road. I'm also lucky that they have all the parts for the mCX2... this was a selling point that the guy there kept repeating to me when I bought it. I couldn't understand why that would be such a big deal. After all... all I was going to do is fly it... why would I need parts????
If you're talking about the one on the flybar there's only supposed to be one

... unless you mean that one is actually missing, in which case I don't think your heli would even fly, so I don't think that's what you mean. ?
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 11:17 PM
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Canada, QC, Châteauguay
Joined Jan 2012
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OK... so I guess I'm still a REAL newbe, huh?

So that being said, what could my problem be regarding the heli hardly moving when I want it to go forward? When I first got it the nose would dip down and the sucker would take off like a... you know. Now, it seems like it is fighting to go forward.

Like I said... there is no problem flying backwards... it is very fast. I've had the trim right to the max and there's still no difference.

Bobby
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 11:21 PM
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Canada, QC, Châteauguay
Joined Jan 2012
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Sorry... yes... there is one on the flybar... and I guess you'd be right by saying that it wouldn't fly at all if it weren't there.

I should have also said that it flies ok going from side to side. It is just forward that is the problem.

Bobby
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 11:30 PM
Epilepsy Awareness
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United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
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Hi Bobby, always do a pre-flight check. Power up and make sure your AIL. (roll, left and right) and ELE. (forward/backward) pushrods move very freely. Sometimes they can catch on the canopy. Adjust or cut the canopy as necessary.

Mike.
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Old Jan 09, 2012, 12:18 AM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
7,567 Posts
Yeah, bobby, maybe check what Mike just said. I sometimes have a problem getting mine to really get going forward fast but that's because my elevator trim has to be set to its maximum "nose up" to compensate for the position I need to have the little weight set to on my CF Tail Boom to be perfectly still in a hover while also having the least amount of tail vibration (i.e. the position I need to have my weight set at makes the heli nose heavy). If I move my trim back to the center or further (nose down) it takes off like a rocket (with some help from the throttle) with full stick forward so it's a compromise for me depending on what I want to do... I've adjusted to this by just playing with that elevator trim in mid flight depending on whether I want FFF or am coming in for a pinpoint landing.

I realize my CF Boom weight position issue doesn't apply to you if your on the full body tail.
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