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Old Jun 10, 2010, 10:22 AM
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Just like to bust in on your thread. I'm an old fart from Montana. But, Pilotrcuk, my dad was born in Coatbridge Scotland!

My Typhoon arrived yesterday and the stab bellcrank was way too tight. It took 3.5 pounds on the 1.75" lever arm of the crank to move it. That is 98 in.oz. of torque!!!

I called Bob at Soaring USA and he's getting things under control. Im looking for a fix without total disassembly. Any ideas.

Did you experience anything like this?

Your thread is greatly appreciated as it will hepl me as I get started on my ship. I have no intentions of powering mine as you folks are. Hoooo-Haaa, thats a lot of watts.

I just want to be sure to get it back after I throw it off Hat Point, 3000 ft over Hells Canyon at this years Alpine Extrene in Joseph, Oregon. The event starts on June 30th. So I must get started on the plane.

Any solutions to the problem would be appreciated.

Thanks, Jim
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Old Jun 10, 2010, 10:50 AM
Soggy Scotland
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Central Scotland
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Hi Jim, and welcome to the thread!! I stay just outside Stirling, having spent most of my life in Edinburgh - I still work there though. Small world!!

That's a right pain re the bellcrank. Having spent many years flying 100S and Open, I've done a fair amount of fiddling with all moving tail setups. They're great when they work well!! If this has occurred on a batch of Typhoons then it sounds like a manufacturing issue as opposed to a one-off where someone has added too much glue or created too tight a tolerance to the area. Without having a Typhoon fuz in my hand I can't really comment, but I'm wondering if it's possible to either remove the rudder and fin post, or separate one side of the fin skin by slicing carefully down between the fin post and fin side. Not idea on a new model though!!

Mine is on order, I'll forward this thread to the UK supplier as an FYI - you have me concerned!!

Re power, well, each to his own and all that, but I usually find too much is never enough

Al
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Old Jun 10, 2010, 11:13 AM
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Al,

Just contacted Soaring USA and Bob is going to get the problem solved! Should have it all resolved today! Super service and customer relations.

He stayed late last night and checked all his stock and all the Typhoon sailplanes are fine. I'll have a new electric fuselage for my trip.

All is well in Typhoon land!!

Jim
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Old Jun 10, 2010, 11:22 AM
Soggy Scotland
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Sounds like the best bet Jim. Shame they weren't QC'd at the factory, let alone by the vendor, but it's easy to say in retrospect, particularly as I'm sure most mouldies these days are perfect. Hope you get some satisfaction there.
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Old Jun 10, 2010, 05:38 PM
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To all those considering an electric RCRCM Typhoon. The stuck bellcrank problem has been solved in about ten minutes with a generous spritz from a spray can of liquid graphite. Bob from Soaring USA came through with the fix. I don't know if it was the graphite or the acetone in the spray or the propelant but within a few seconds while working the pushrod the thing let go and is now operating as smooth as silk.

Thank you Bob and Soaring USA!!!
He has more of them and they all work fine! It is beeeee'utiful ship. Can't wait to get it to Hells Canyon for the Alpine Extreme. Based on the sailplane videos I've seen on RC Groups it should be a fantastic performer with a wide performance envelope.

Pics to follow.

JIM
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Old Jun 11, 2010, 01:52 AM
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Good to hear Jim, interesting fix, good stuff.

Yeah, beautiful airframe, would be rude not to throw at least a kW at it...
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Old Jun 11, 2010, 10:30 AM
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Al,

At 68 I don't want to be say'n, "What happened?" While some grinning pup says, "Watts happened, thats what!!"

I've a few questions now that the assembly has started.

1. Where is the CG starting point? (so battery and elecronics location can be set
properly?)
2. Where is the neutral elevator position? Would like initial set up to get it near a proper
trim position. For example: With the fuselage resting on a flat surface and the fin in a
vertical plane, how many mm is the trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer above the
flat surface?
3. Any recommended control surface throws?
4. Any recommended down thrust on the motor? (measured while the parting lines at the
leading edge and the trailing edge of both wings (taken at the root) are all the
same distance above a flat surface)

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

JIM
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 08:04 AM
Which way is it going now
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Australia, SA, Golden Grove
Joined Mar 2003
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Jim,

I'll try and answer most of your questions.

1. I set my initial CG at 85mm back from the leading edge. It is a good place to start I have moved it back already but have not measured it.

2. I set mine at 63mm from the bottom of the fuse to the mould line on the horizontal stabiliser at the leading edge.

3. I haven't measured mine but it did tame then down after the first flight.

4. The down thrust required is not that great. I did build a bit of down into the motor mount. Something else to set on the next trip out.

I'll definitely be taking the E-Phoon out this weekend if the weather holds.

Mark
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Old Jun 17, 2010, 05:03 AM
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Alright, so heres the deal (i need some help analysing this - i think it may be over propped).

Motor: gs2218-10
Battery: 3s 1800mah flightmax 40c
Esc: Phoenix 80amp with switching bec
Prop: aeronaut 14x8

I did three motor runs, each about 7 seconds. The motor is VERY hot - too hot to touch? I dont fly electrics, i dont know what this means, but im pretty sure its not right.

According to the wattmeter it's pulling 761watts, and 72.66amps.

The battery dropped to 10.23volts (can someone tell me if this is too low?) should i be worried about a brown out with the ar7000 receiver?

The other two readings i got were .249Ah and 2.5Wh. The first one i'm guesssing is 250mahs, i dont know what the watt hours represents.

So guys - what you reckon, should i go down a prop size - there is a strange smell coming from the motor compartment.

Rob
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Old Jun 17, 2010, 08:11 AM
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Joined Jun 2004
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Rob, the battery voltage is OK, but you're asking too much of that motor. Have a look at the setup charts for the GS series on the Hyperion World website and decide what prop to go down to, to stay within the limits of the motor - you don't want to demagnetise it or smoke it completely!!
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Old Jun 17, 2010, 08:13 AM
Which way is it going now
mstone's Avatar
Australia, SA, Golden Grove
Joined Mar 2003
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Rob,

I'm guessing that is way to much prop.

The data sheet says 55A max for 5 seconds. The problem with the published prop data is you don't know how long the hub was.

From the numbers you published I would go back to a 12X6 and give it a try that should be about 50A or down to and 11X6 for 45A. Either way remember 55A for only 5 seconds or you risk the magic blue smoke. The battery @ 10.23 volts is fine for short runs and the switching BEC should also be OK.

Hope that helps
Mark
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Old Jun 17, 2010, 05:52 PM
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Great, thanks guys... I'll bump it down to a 12x6... I just assumed from the data sheet I was able to run a prop that size (oops!). Thanks again for the help, rob
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Old Jun 17, 2010, 06:00 PM
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NP. look forward to hearing what numbers you get with that prop.
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Old Jun 18, 2010, 06:15 AM
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France, PACA, Carpentras
Joined Dec 2006
212 Posts
I have yet to test a 28mm outrunner (=22 class motor) that is a good performer with a prop larger than 12 inches in diametre.
They just dont have enough torque, all they do is heat up instead of producing rpms.

Have not tried the new hyperion Gs22 series though, but I doubt they are that big a progress in engineering...
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Old Jun 20, 2010, 11:33 PM
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Mark,

Thanks for the help.

I just finished installing the six-pin connectors at the fuselage /wing root interface so tomorrow I'll build all connectors for the RX and try to position battery,etc. to establish the 85mm GC location. The stab position you provided will lessen the pucker factor on the maiden flight. RCRCM had some info but they were still in the process of producing a set of specs. Your data seems to track well with their info on CG. They had nothing on the stab position. I fly at about 4500' ASL. My motor is a Neu 1105/2.5Y with a Maxon 4.4:1 planetary gear drive. Prop will be a 13/10.5 or a 13/9. I will try both a 2S and a 3S TP 30C LiPO with a CC Thunderbird 45 ESC. I prefer the
2S to save weight. But if I need nose weight to achieve CG then I'll add cells not lead. Then comes programing and test flights. Weather here has been wet and stormy so maiden flight may be delayed. Should be airborn before the weekind though!

Thanks again for the help.

JIM
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