So should I make the fuse mold a tad bigger in the nose and a all carbon fuse,heavy layup ?how is the tail does it need some help also?

Does anyone want one?

I am very happy with the finish, and quality of my Typhoon-E carbon. Everything fit well (wings onto joiner, and fit of wings to fuse, etc). I did have to open up the stabilator slot a bit for binding up and down travel. And my rudder travel left/right took a bit of work.
But, overall the build was really fun, with many steps already finished, ie horns on ailerons/flaps, tunnels opened up from servo pockets to control horns, etc.

I also have a pretty mild power setup, Neu 1110/1Y/6.7 on 3S, pulling maybe 760 Watts. So I hope mine will hold up well.
It's amazing to see how slowly you can land a Typhoon, with flaps and butterfly working. Slow landings may save mine from touchdown damage/stresses.

It is a very nice plane ..

This ESC is known to need a lower throttle signal to arm, did you try increasing your ATVs at lower throttle stick?

Originally Posted by jackosmeister

Personally I think they should ditch the kevlar nose, do the whole thing in carbon. Its where 90% of the uglyness of my typhoon lays. Its wobbly as and full of bubbles. It would 100% be a reject if it wasnt a chinese product.

Why is it kevlar anyway?, makes sense for the slope fuse, but thats where one needs lipo+motor etc, not Rx in the e fuse.



Pulled out the turnigy Kforce esc from mine, stuck in a CC ICE 100. ICE was DOA, all I could make it do was beep annoyingly!

Unfortunatly, due to my wiring, changing the ESC requires removing the Rx/Life pack etc. Which takes a few hours of swearing to do!

2nd ICE esc tested on the bench fine and dandy, seems to be running the 16-25-2 much more smoothly than the turdy ESC.

Decided to rethink my Rx install, going for the the "ship in a bottle" approach now. Should be able to shed a few grams in the process.

Hopefully maiden it sunday, Ill try get some video.

^ yup, Tried end points and everything. It would beep continuously on 6S, on 3S it would beep once, then die completely. On its way back to castle now, 2nd ICE100 is behaving itself much better.

Ended up rewiring the whole plane, got sick of having to install it like loading a musket!

Wired everything up out side the plane, taped up the Rx/Life/BEC etc into a nice compact block, Ran all the wires where they wanted to be for the shortest route, heat shrunk them all into the right shape. Then ran cotton threads from all the holes through the fuse (servo holes, aerial, wing wiring, Life etc), and out through the nose. Tied them to their matching wires, then stuck the block down the hole into the abyss. Pulled on the threads and presto! Perfect wiring and nothing is jammed. Magic!

Managed to shave 50gram in weight, and now have 40mm of room to shift the packs fore/aft to move the CG (still requires no lead to acheive). There is more room for watts in this airframe, longer can motor and some longer packs. The 1900 G3 Ex's are the perfect width/height for the typhoon.

Found Nitto red electrical tape is a perfect match for the red of the typhoon, makes for easy hinges for the servo cover/battery charge hatch. Also seals the gap at the LE wing/fuse joint perfectly too.

New RCMRC complaint, the fuselage bag doesnt fit the fuselage when it has a prop on the front

Now all I need is to do some more prop testing, then hopefully I can find a dry strip within an hours drive. Start of winter here, everything is a bog.

jackosmeister

one neat device, to use with the Castle ICE ESC is the Quick Connect
It allows you to download data from the ESC without having to disconnect the ESC lead to your receiver. I believe it also allows you to re-program your ESC from your computer too, though I haven't tried this yet.

http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...k_connect.html

My receiver is way back, behind the wing. Kind of like the "ship-in-a-bottle" you had to deal with. So this way, I don't have to drag everything forward, to download ESC data.

Damn that would be handy, cheers for the link hadnt seen the quick connect before. I have an eagletree 150A wired up to it anyway.

Prop testing done burger, pack was cold and discharged by ~500Mah when first test was done. Voltage is sagging quite dramatically, will keep an eye on the pack health and see if it improves over time.

13x11 - 64A, 1375W, 20.9V, 9425 rpm
14x12 - 90.5A, 1819W, 19.6V, 8183 rpm
15x13 - 111A, 2160W, 19V, 7630rpm

Castle esc is running it beeeeautifully smoothly, so nicely I have the start curve at a 1 second ramp up, can probably reduce it even more


Took the Typhoon to the park to do some prop testing, Didnt feel like a good idea to hold it with one hand with the tx in the other, so got a helper

Wolf among the Sheep....

Nice looking wolf... 2160 Watts, that's 3X my power !!

Hope you have a good, carbon fiber prop for those power levels. I like the RFM spinners and props. No twist in the spinner, either.
I watched a guy damage an Enigma, last year, just after I launched it for him..He had a "twisted" spinner, but it was pulling about 5000 Watts too on 6S.

Threw a prop blade, then the whole motor mount ripped out. He was lucky the dangling motor/esc didn't chew back into the fuse, or wing.

^ Ouch! Im just below the max rpm limits of the aeronauts, so should be safe as long as im gentle with the ramp up and brake. Ive ordered a bunch of RFM slims for the next toy (x-plane), Ill have a play with them on this setup and see how they compare. Maybe some 14.5x10 Slims might be wise...

Maidened it this arvo, after 4 hours sleep and 6 hours work!

"Respectable" climb out with a 14x12!, Once the prop bites it looks like its on a slingshot!, Feels very sharp too fly.

Roll rate even without full length ailerons is incredible for a 2m glider. Full length ailerons would result in blur like roll rates! Id guess and say at the same airspeed it'd roll twice as fast, with only ailerons, as my old RCM Pelikan Xtreme did at full rates and full length ailerons.

Unfortunatly the brake isnt engaging hard enough, which is killing the down line speed. Need to reduce the 1.5second throttle ramp up to like .3 seconds too. Problem with the 1.5s ramp up is that its a speck in the sky even before its hit full noise! Need some more aileron expo, and a slightly further aft CG and its gonna be some serious fun.

Ill get some video next time.

Should mention the motor/esc temps seem fine at this level, warm but not scorching, forgot to check it with the thermometer though, the 16-25-2.5S in my mibo e-wasp seems to be hotter on landing.

What Motor and esc are you running ?

Mega 16/25/2 w/ kontronic 480 heatsink
KPG25 5.2:1
6S 45C 1900 hyperions EX G3 (2x3S)
Castle ICE 100 lite

Congrats on the maiden!!
It does roll pretty fast. Expo is your friend too. I forgot I had my ailerons mixed to rudder, and things got exciting with some rolls on the "down" during a vertical dive.

Post some video. You should be able to "read" the ESC temps after a flight, with the Castle ICE Esc. You just have to define what parameters you want to read.

Jack, I cant wait to see a video. Your figures look scary fast!! How does it compare to the other composite planes you've flown?

It seems to be promising! The windmilling prop was killing the speed drastically.

Most of the stuff I fly are pylon racers/mini hotliners.. So nothing really similar apart from a couple of molded slopeys in the past (mini blade etc) and a pelikan xtreme.

I can say with certainty that it will out climb my radian pro though

Hopefully the weather plays ball this weekend and Ill try again and get a better feel for it, and some video.

Looking forward to getting it in the air with a friends 2kW Backfire, hopefully the typhoon can keep up!