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Old Feb 21, 2012, 09:50 AM
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jeffsch's Avatar
Seattle, USA
Joined Oct 2009
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Fred, I'm running into a problem when applying the decals. The Polycrylic is making the ink (from inkjet printer) run. I did put 3-4 very light coats of clear Krylon on the tissue.

When you apply the Krylon, does the tissue end up nearly clear? (I couldn't quite tell from the otherwise very helpful photos.)
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 10:12 AM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffsch View Post
Fred, I'm running into a problem when applying the decals. The Polycrylic is making the ink (from inkjet printer) run. I did put 3-4 very light coats of clear Krylon on the tissue.

When you apply the Krylon, does the tissue end up nearly clear? (I couldn't quite tell from the otherwise very helpful photos.)
Great questions. I try to spray the tissue with Krylon from both sides (letting each side dry first of course). And this may take many coats of spray. The trick is to get enough coats without letting the Krylon run the ink either. Guess it is a practice kind of thing.

Yes, the tissue will sometimes look almost clear when treated. So will white tissue applied to a model and well sealed with dope. That is why we try to do the white spray treatment on the back if the color of the model might show through. You know you have a good seal when the tisse is translucent when dry.

I sometime now mask an area that I treated white on the model, the size of the decal, and this by far works the best. However it is more work and not for everyone. In tissue covered builds, artist chalk is often powderized and sifted onto the back of tissue to enhance colors in a similar way.

As far as the application, it is also a fine line in applying the decals with enough 'glue/WBPU' without it being too much. depending on what you use to adhere the decal, top coating might be best after the base coat had dried a bit or a lot. I'm liking white glue, very, very, thin layer, applied to the decal only, the best. I still often put a smear coat of Polycrylic on the model itself to help slide the decal around in application, and squeegie it with a card stock really quick, blotting the edges with toilet paper.

Epson makes printers with Pigment based ink that resist water (not quite water proof), lazer printers are better than ink jet too. However all you have seen so far has been done with the dye based ink most ink jet printers use. Point here is, next time you need a printer, POSSIBLY you might explain to the significant other, or boss, that a pigmented ink or lazer printer is superior to the jobs that are most improtant!


Good luck, and practice a bit more. Maybe print two sheets out, and trat both a bit different from each other, one more agressive? Let me know how it works out!

Fred
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Old Apr 06, 2012, 08:28 AM
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aeroknot's Avatar
west Georgia, USA
Joined Nov 2007
409 Posts
Ta-da!

Not finished yet...great tutorial.

Works very well.
White tissue with 65 pound card stock backing in a color laser printer.
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 12:36 AM
Tom, Oslo, Norway
Oslo, Norway
Joined Apr 2007
66 Posts
Thank you for this great tutorial, FreddieB!
I saw a link in the Norwegian model airplane forum the other day - while the Valejo Model Color paint for the roundels were drying. See photo. Well, too late for tissue roundels for that model now.

I'll make tissue decals for some other models.
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by aeroknot View Post
Ta-da!

Not finished yet...great tutorial.

Works very well.
White tissue with 65 pound card stock backing in a color laser printer.
Aeroknot,

That looks really nice! If that is your first try I must say it came out excellent. The lazer is a great printer for this process, and 65 pound stock is a bit lighter than I have been using buts sound so worth a try.

Thank you so much for taking the time to post your results and photos. I love it!

Fred
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Biplan View Post
Thank you for this great tutorial, FreddieB!
I saw a link in the Norwegian model airplane forum the other day - while the Valejo Model Color paint for the roundels were drying. See photo. Well, too late for tissue roundels for that model now.

I'll make tissue decals for some other models.
Wow, all the way from Norway! I like your talants at painting the roundels, but I have many troubles when i try that. I am happy you like the tutorial, and pleas do try it I think you will like it. Let us see some photos when you do!

Thanks again,

Fred
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 12:09 PM
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United States, CA, Ukiah
Joined Dec 2011
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I just wanted to thank Fred for this tutorial, its fantastic sir! Your time and knowledge are very much appreciated. I am about to start a build of a one off prototype aircraft which has next to nothing when it comes to markings and they all have to be made based off of photos of the full size prototype taken back in the mid 40s, this has saved me all the headaches from trying to come up with a good and easy way to replicate the markings and is almost invaluable for this project.

Again, thanks and keep it up!

Matt
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 12:57 PM
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Thank you Matt, kind Sir.

Being able to make any decal you want or need, with little cost, and for airplanes just like what you are making, is special indeed. I am very happy if this posting has made your modeling experiance a better and most enjoyable endeavor! Good luck and success on your model and do post some pictures when it is completed!

Fred
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 01:12 PM
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United States, CA, Ukiah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freddie B View Post
Thank you Matt, kind Sir.

Being able to make any decal you want or need, with little cost, and for airplanes just like what you are making, is special indeed. I am very happy if this posting has made your modeling experiance a better and most enjoyable endeavor! Good luck and success on your model and do post some pictures when it is completed!

Fred
Fred,

I cannot express how helpful your info is, not to mention the low overall cost of the finished product. I will be more than sure to do a complete build thread on my ( currently top secret ) micro project. I dont mean to be so cloak and dagger about the build details, but its going to be worth the hype I think. Ill be sure to link it up to your thread when I get to the stage where Im applying the graphics.

Thanks again!
Matt
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Mendo View Post
Fred,

I cannot express how helpful your info is, not to mention the low overall cost of the finished product. I will be more than sure to do a complete build thread on my ( currently top secret ) micro project. I dont mean to be so cloak and dagger about the build details, but its going to be worth the hype I think. Ill be sure to link it up to your thread when I get to the stage where Im applying the graphics.

Thanks again!
Matt
Well, more like thank you Matt! Now I'm excited, come back and add a link when that build thread is started, for sure! I love Top Secret stuff! I used to work at the Skunk Works......

Fred
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 08:37 AM
e-powered foam
rawy's Avatar
swiss watch makers area
Joined Dec 2002
812 Posts
Thank you very much Fred for this very cool thread, was following it for a certain time waiting to have all the stuff to start, just printed my first sheet a few minutes ago, will certainly improve as some small imperfections are still to correct.
My main problem ist that I'm not used to grafic works and I need to buy a better software the very basics (paint) I have here.
Any suggestions on what to look for ....for dummies


rawy
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by rawy View Post
Thank you very much Fred for this very cool thread, was following it for a certain time waiting to have all the stuff to start, just printed my first sheet a few minutes ago, will certainly improve as some small imperfections are still to correct.
My main problem ist that I'm not used to grafic works and I need to buy a better software the very basics (paint) I have here.
Any suggestions on what to look for ....for dummies


rawy
Rawy,

I actually use a real old version of Print Master, by Borderbund. I do like my older version because it is a bit simpler than a newer version I got for the wifey's computer. I think the program is like $10.00 at OfficeMax and similar places. You can get the latest, greatest at $20.00 or more I guess. It is a basic add graphics, text, enlarge or shrink (by stretching) things, and save/print. I used it to advertise as flyers in my RE business, to decals, to birthday and business cards. It's not good for working with simple drawings and plans, but at $10.00 it's worth the money for what it does best.

Thank you for the kind words and appreciation, but let me know how you progress, if you try Print Master, and possibly some photos of your efforts.

Fred
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 10:42 AM
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Joined Oct 2010
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Print Master - By Borderbund

Quote:
Originally Posted by Freddie B View Post
I actually use a real old version of Print Master, by Borderbund. I do like my older version because it is a bit simpler than a newer version I got for the wifey's computer. I think the program is like $10.00 at OfficeMax and similar places. You can get the latest, greatest at $20.00 or more I guess. ... let me know how you progress, if you try Print Master, and possibly some photos of your efforts. Fred
I haven't done much with the old printer up stairs in a while, which is attached to an old HP using XP, but if I see a copy of Print Master, I must give it a go. I suppose what I really need to do is spend a wad of money and get a laser printer. If I did that I would need to spend another wad of money and attach it to something that spits out all those ones and zeros at a high rate, lol.
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 10:54 AM
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Omaha Nebraska
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Originally Posted by Tsavah View Post
I haven't done much with the old printer up stairs in a while, which is attached to an old HP using XP, but if I see a copy of Print Master, I must give it a go. I suppose what I really need to do is spend a wad of money and get a laser printer. If I did that I would need to spend another wad of money and attach it to something that spits out all those ones and zeros at a high rate, lol.
I do have a laser printer, but it is not my favorite, nor do I use it often for these decals. I love the Epson Workforce inkjet type printers the best. The ink is pigment based and printouts are water and chemical resistant. I've had one for 5 months and it is NICE. Sure beats the dye type of inks that run all over when they get wet! So I've used all three. Order of preferance is Epson inkjet, and tossup with regular inkjet vs. laser. I'd save the money and look at Epson Ink types first!

Fred
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 12:00 PM
The world in foam & tissue
Rasterize's Avatar
United States, NY, Rochester
Joined May 2010
615 Posts
I'll second Fred on the Epson Workforce. I have an Epson Workforce 1100 using a continuous ink system (I do a lot of heavy coverage tissue coverings) and Iove it!
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