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Old Sep 11, 2010, 11:48 AM
Just Me
United States, OR, Salem
Joined Apr 2006
842 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by roffe_ek View Post
I wonder about the heavy paper stock is that ordinary paper used for printers, I try to make the decals but I have paper stop in my printer every time I try this the tissue is not torn but the whole sandwich stops. I use ordinary printerpaper as the heavy paperstock is that correct?
Best Eystein
You need to use something around the 90 lb range....like business cards are made from..."card stock"

Also check and make sure if your printer has a setting for heavy paper that it's selected.
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Old Sep 11, 2010, 01:37 PM
Addicted to building...
Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
Joined Feb 2006
5,998 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by roffe_ek View Post
I wonder about the heavy paper stock is that ordinary paper used for printers, I try to make the decals but I have paper stop in my printer every time I try this the tissue is not torn but the whole sandwich stops. I use ordinary printerpaper as the heavy paperstock is that correct?
Best Eystein
BRNER is correct, we refer to heavy paper stock in the 90 to 120 pound range. (greating cards, etc).

Sometimes you need to help feed the sandwich in, not a lot of pressure, but some, as the printer rollers that grab the paper 'slip' a little. Depends on your printer.

Once you figure out what works with your printer, it will be one of your favorite things to do at finishing time!

Fred
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Old Sep 28, 2010, 10:54 AM
Slipping the Surly Bonds
dz1sfb's Avatar
Attica, MI
Joined Dec 2006
10,532 Posts
Fred,

Very nice presentation! I will give this a try for the SEMFF Combat planes. I hate hand painting insignia, and have not had good results with decal paper sticking well to foam models unless the surface finish is very fine.

Like'n your style,
Ken
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Old Sep 28, 2010, 05:20 PM
Addicted to building...
Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
Joined Feb 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dz1sfb View Post
Fred,

Very nice presentation! I will give this a try for the SEMFF Combat planes. I hate hand painting insignia, and have not had good results with decal paper sticking well to foam models unless the surface finish is very fine.

Like'n your style,
Ken
Thanks Ken,

There is no going back for me, painting insignia is difficult, and decal paper gets ruined enough to break my bank. i can print out many copies of similar decals, for very little investment, then they are ready for multiple builds. Your combat planes would be a perfect choice here, as they go on quick and cost little, incase your opponent 'takes you out'.

Fred
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Old Nov 30, 2010, 09:34 PM
Must not buy more planes!
mclarkson's Avatar
USA, KS, Wichita
Joined Jul 2010
2,344 Posts
I'm a little confused. It sounds like you put glue stick on the back of the decals, then put WBPU and white glue on the back of the decals.

What's the purpose of the glue stick? Doesn't the glue+wbpu just cover it up?

thanks
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Old Dec 01, 2010, 12:37 AM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mclarkson View Post
I'm a little confused. It sounds like you put glue stick on the back of the decals, then put WBPU and white glue on the back of the decals.

What's the purpose of the glue stick? Doesn't the glue+wbpu just cover it up?

thanks
Several ways work, and depends on material decal is going on.

Several people just wipe some glue on, done. A little top coat, done.

For me. I just found that: WBPU wiped on the foam (to wet it). Glue stick on the decal back (sticky, but not always a good even coat). White glue/WBPU mix (really wets the decal, and trust me it's now 'stickier') on the back, also allows for easier 'squeegee' any bubbles or excess moisture out.

The non printed, layered decals do need extra help to adhere better, double thick!

Then a quick top coat to seal. Can you tell I'm a perfectionest! When I'm done, looks painted on.

Just try them, play with your own application methods, can't hardly hurt anything, practice on some scrap first.

Fred
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Old Dec 01, 2010, 02:18 AM
Must not buy more planes!
mclarkson's Avatar
USA, KS, Wichita
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Alrighty. Thanks!
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Old Dec 01, 2010, 11:33 AM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
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You are welcome.

Fred
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 10:20 PM
Eight Six Hotel Juliet
18DFlyr's Avatar
Chicago, IL
Joined Sep 2004
56 Posts
Fred,

I wanted to say thanks for sharing this technique. Last year I got into small electrics and built a few planes with Durobatics. I tried spaying a coating on that allowed me to print on the Durobatics but was not happy with the results.

I just stumbled on your thread about 2 weeks ago and tried it on a new micro Bandit that I just built and was really impressed with the results!

I could not believe how easy and fast it was to print and apply the decals.

The hardest part was re-learning how to draw vector graphics again.

I thought I would share a few pictures of the results of my first attempt with your technique.

Bill
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Old Jan 20, 2011, 11:20 AM
Weni, wedi, Java...
Brent Slensker's Avatar
Casper, Wyoming
Joined Nov 2009
1,100 Posts
Wow!...Sharp!
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Old Jan 20, 2011, 02:27 PM
Addicted to building...
Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
Joined Feb 2006
5,998 Posts
Bill,

That looks really good! I'm not only happy you tried the decals, and that you too, know they work great, but.... That they came out so very cool looking!

Most of all, thanks for posting pictures of the work and plane. We all enjoy seeing great models and others efforts!

Good luck, and thanks again!

Fred
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Old Jan 20, 2011, 04:14 PM
Airplane Killer
SumthinsFishy's Avatar
Orange County, CA
Joined Oct 2009
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Your bandit looks great!
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Old Jan 20, 2011, 07:27 PM
Eight Six Hotel Juliet
18DFlyr's Avatar
Chicago, IL
Joined Sep 2004
56 Posts
Thanks for the compliments on the Bandit.

I could not believe how easy this technique is! The hardest part was learning a new vector graphics package.

In case anyone is interested, I downloaded the open source (free) Inkscape vector graphics program, read a few of their tutorials and then created the design.

This probably took 3 times as long as printing, spraying, and then applying the decals.
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Old Jan 22, 2011, 01:49 AM
Must not buy more planes!
mclarkson's Avatar
USA, KS, Wichita
Joined Jul 2010
2,344 Posts
I did some for a plane I built my son. I only had problems on big, solid letters for the tops of the wings. The ink ran out of the lines a bit.

I also took some shortcuts in the application (cuz that's how I roll, yo) so the results were not stellar, but they were good enough, and my son loves the personalization.
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Old Jan 22, 2011, 09:57 AM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
Joined Feb 2006
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Mclarckson,

Looks great to me. The bleeding can be cured by another light coat or two of Krylon before getting to the application point. I understand the hurry it up thing, but Krylon dries in 3-5 minutes an application. You can also try spraying both sides of the tissue before cutting them out. I all gets better with practice too!

Thanks for posting the photo too! We all love to see airplanes in living color!

Fred
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