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Old Apr 09, 2010, 11:15 AM
Just Me
United States, OR, Salem
Joined Apr 2006
826 Posts
Fred,

Gave your method a try with great success on the second try. I found that wrapping the scotch tape around the edge of the paper after the tissue is applied to the backing led to a problem with my printer. The printer wouldn't grab the paper and feed it right. That was the first try. The second try (see image below) I didn't wrap the edge but just taped the tissue onto the heavy paper on the back side. This worked great as you can see. Still have to cut the backing out and spray but so far it's working great.

This decal set is to go on my Spirit 100. Hopefully the WBPU will adhere these to the monokote covering. Thanks for the great how-to thread.

Don
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Old Apr 09, 2010, 03:16 PM
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Freddie B's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brner View Post
Fred,

Gave your method a try with great success on the second try. I found that wrapping the scotch tape around the edge of the paper after the tissue is applied to the backing led to a problem with my printer. The printer wouldn't grab the paper and feed it right. That was the first try. The second try (see image below) I didn't wrap the edge but just taped the tissue onto the heavy paper on the back side. This worked great as you can see. Still have to cut the backing out and spray but so far it's working great.

This decal set is to go on my Spirit 100. Hopefully the WBPU will adhere these to the monokote covering. Thanks for the great how-to thread.

Don
Looks great, glad to hear about and see your excellent results. Looks really good. Thank you for sharing and showing others that it works so well.

After sealing, test the application to the monocote. UBPU may not stick as well for the drytime on plastic, but it can be done, remember the glue stick wipe first. But if not getting the results you like, I suggest that you try Super 77 spray glue (on the deal backside), might be the excellent adhesion method. After the adhesion top coat wit WBPU or Clear PU for nitro, or just brush on some more Krylon expressed into a disposable cup if an electric model.

Fred
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Old Apr 16, 2010, 08:34 PM
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United States, OH, Westlake
Joined Mar 2002
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Fred - thanks for the great tutorial. Hoping to give it a try when I get a build that warrents this quality.
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Old Apr 29, 2010, 05:24 PM
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United States, CA, Felton
Joined Jan 2005
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I'm gonna try this today printing lozenge for my Fokker D7. Wish me luck. I like the idea of wrapping the paper around and taping on the opposite side. I just bought cheapo tissue paper at the dollar store...hope it works.

Thanks for posting this !
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Old Apr 29, 2010, 06:06 PM
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Freddie B's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rotagen View Post
I'm gonna try this today printing lozenge for my Fokker D7. Wish me luck. I like the idea of wrapping the paper around and taping on the opposite side. I just bought cheapo tissue paper at the dollar store...hope it works.

Thanks for posting this !
It should! Remember the only learning curve is getting your master fairly wrinkle free and the gluing/tape tenique that works best for you. Second is testing your printer settings (ink/quality levels, etc). and spray that Krylon thin, many coats!

I use cheap tissue paper. Often the 200 sheet bundle from Walmart around Christmas time.

Post some Photos please!

Fred
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Old Apr 30, 2010, 02:06 PM
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Canada, BC, Squamish
Joined Jul 2002
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Amazing. Love it. Gonna try it. This probably should be a stick in the Painting / Finishing forum.
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Old May 08, 2010, 10:19 AM
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great tutorial fred!
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Old May 09, 2010, 01:43 AM
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Thanks again everyone, lets see more pictures! Everyone likes the pictures! Especially me.

Fred
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Old May 10, 2010, 06:20 PM
Registered User
East Hampton, CT USA
Joined Jun 2009
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P-51 Markings

Fred,

I wanted to thank you for posting your method of making decals. I followed it as closly as I could, and with some modifications due to some "learning experiences" got the results pictured. The model is a depron 1:9 P-51 from plans I downloaded from the "scratchbuilt foamy" section here on RC Groups. This is my second model, after a 30 - year hiatus from RC modeling. The first one was a Great Planes cub kit.

All of the markings on the Mustang are made with graphics either downloaded from RC Groups or created on Turbocad and copied to word documents, then printed on tissue and applied to the model using your methods.

Thanks again,

Mel
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Old May 10, 2010, 11:59 PM
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Omaha Nebraska
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Mel,

WOW! That is one beautiful build, and I'm so impressed with the decals you made using my tissue methods! I almost can't believe it's your second model after 30 years away, but I know it to be true!

Look everyone, don't miss out ain't she a beauty! Got to try this method.

Mel, I welcome you to post, and encourage to post, the link to those plans for your Mustang here on this thread. This would make it easy for other members to find it. I'm sure with the quality of your aircraft there will be many that will want one too (me included)

I especially want to thank you for the photos. I asked and you delivered. This helps show others that this is really one great way to not only save hard earned dollars, but to make your aircraft really shine. It is hard to beat I'm sure you would agree.

Fred
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Old May 11, 2010, 07:53 AM
Just Me
United States, OR, Salem
Joined Apr 2006
826 Posts
Mel,

Great job on that 51. Labor of love with all that white to have to cut around...lol But it does look sweet...from one old guy to another...thumps up
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Old May 11, 2010, 10:04 AM
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Omaha Nebraska
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When I started this thread I made the decal sheet you see in the beginning detailing this process. Thought I would show you one of the planes that I made those decals for.

It is a micro EDF design I call the Omega MF X-1. (Micro Fighter X-1). It weighs 22 grams with battery, and all markings are these tissue decals. I needed to save weight and these decals do the job, even at this tiny scale.

Interested in a build thread on this aircraft, you can click on this link:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1236312

Big or small this process works really well.

Fred
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Old May 11, 2010, 10:26 AM
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raleigh, NC usa
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mel
Beauty on that p51.
I am working on a gws foamie that I covered in silkspan and am now getting ready to paint and finish. I picked up the revelle 1/48 scale Miss Detroit and scanned the decals into photoshop but have been having one heck of a time getting the right look and fit as well as color. The scan process washed out the blues and blacks so I have had to go in and highlight and fill in the areas with color . .. close but not close enough . . . as my photoshop is set up for RGB rather than FS military coloring.
Ive been printing to 8X11 paper to see the progress.
how did you scale your decals, esp for the checkerboard on the nose of your p51?

thanks
Phil
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Old May 12, 2010, 08:01 AM
Registered User
East Hampton, CT USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Old Crow Nose Decal

Phil,

The checkerboard decal was a challenge! Here is how I did that one:
1. Made a paper pattern right on the model by "cut & fit" trial and error.
2. Once I had a pattern I could tape on with reasonable fit, I traced around that with a heavy black line so it would scan well. I have an old HP "All in one" color printer, BTW.
3. Then I copied the scan file into my Turbocad drawing program, and traced around it to create a TC file. I couldn't figure out how to convert the original file, so used the TC trace tool, then deleted the original scanned file. Once I had a TC file to work on, I built the red/yellow squares inside the shape.

Scaling was a problem. I ended up copying each file into a Word document and then scaling them to fit the model. Like you, I kept track of progress by printing them out on paper and trial fitting. Hope that helps. Mel
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Old May 12, 2010, 09:08 AM
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I use a program called 'PrintMaster' and I think it is similar to 'PrintShop'? Don't get the latest, greatest version as improvements seem to give less control to the user. I've seen it brand new in the office supply stores for $10.00 or less! Great power to manipulate size and has a scale feature on the side to help judge scaling. Lots of color, background, add, edit functions, all designed only for graphics presentations (cards, brochures, flyers, iron-on's, banners, etc) Does a fair job at letters and numbers, look at this photo of a Sopwith Pup tail, got it pretty accurate for what it is.

Fred
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