Originally Posted by Jecull

Nicely done, Fred, & a good blow by blow tutorial. I've read a few about this technique but this one is the best for going through the process. Is there some stretch to the tissue? I've read others having problems with lozenge pattern when trying to get the tissue to settle in between the ribs....

Thank you and you can see that on my post #26 above if the structure is solid, the tissue will stretch and form over various bumps and structure. Looks painted on.

For open sturcture framework there are some options. If you totally seal the tissue decals, they do not shrink, stretch, just stable as heck. However they do go on real nice. Could be a problem, maybe, if someone over does the coats of sealer.

I'm guessing with lozenge paterns, they would not be decals, and would instead be whole sheets of covering material. This would be a problem if pre-sealed because they would be too stable. Instead, I would leave a 'printed covering sheet' un-sealed, be real careful what I stuck it to the airframe with (there are options based upon waterbased and toner based inks).

I would put it on real slow and careful, stretching as I go, with as few wrinkles as possible, and hope to not have to shrink it. Again there are options here too, but of course laser toner works best if you are going to have to use water misting for shrinking. I would probably try 'in-direct steam', or better explained as 'humidity' to shrink if that were the case. Then I would seal it on the structure.

Most sealing mediums (Krylon, Dope, etc) cause some sagging, followed by some shrinkage, however minute that may be.

I havn't been adventurous enough to do lozenge yet because I do not have a download and did not want to create my own in a publishing program (although it can be done).

I do like WWI, biplanes, etc but everthing so far was modeled after a subject or squadron that did not have lozenge. I do so many different types of aircraft that if I live long enough the lozenge will come up and maybe I'll have my own bugs to work out (or wrinkles). I wouldn't think it would be a problem if everything was well thought out long before starting to apply glue.

Let me know if you try this, or some altered method and how it turns out. We are all here to learn and pick up tips, plus become better builders!

Here is a funny quote: "The day I stop learning something new, bury me, because that means I'm dead!"
Freddie B. 03/2010

HA! Fred

Freddie,

This is really great stuff. Glad you put a link into your Meerkat build thread.

Eric

Fred,

Thanks for the great tutorial

John

I am very happy to see that this thread must be working and helping you all out! That's why I did it.

It will be a shame when this sneaks into the dark, dusty corners of forgotten threads.

Hey, maybe if you like it, why not use the Rate Thread button at the top right hand corner of this screen? Maybe then people will continue to notice and reference it for the good of modeling in general?

I don't know, just a thought.

Thanks again, and share some pictures of the decals you make using this method, that would really be something. I would like that a lot!

Thanks again
Fred

Thanks for posting this very well detailed tutorial Freddie.
Excellent!
E

Fred, its a good idea about sending tissue but i am afraid that a lot of Dutch modellers would not buy it, they are well...... dunno...

but i will keep it in mind for sure !!

KM

Very interesting....

Good stuff Freddie . Thanks for sharing this method , it will inprove my modeling skills .

Mike 1484

Great How-to! I wasn't aware you could print on tissue paper with a ink jet. Can't wait to give it a try.

Originally Posted by Doogman

Great How-to! I wasn't aware you could print on tissue paper with a ink jet. Can't wait to give it a try.

Just keep the 'Quality' selection on less than 'best', draft or quick may or may not be good on yours, mine works best at everyday, or medium settings.

Keep the 'shinny side' up (the print side).

Fred

What I've got going on is custom made decals using Testors decal blanks. My build log is here http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/fl...-alb-d-va.html & here http://www.aerodromerc.com/cgi-bin/y...num=1250567809 .
The custom route has been fraught with complications. I have had the issue with too much fixative causing an inflexible decal but also where too little comes off & I loose the ink. It's been interesting...

Jecull,

Very nice work, love the subject too! I too got so mad at losing decal sheets, mis-prints, ink running out on $2-3.00 a sheet paper, thick edges on the white decal paper when mounted, crinkles, wrinkles, decals disintegrating, you name it.

That is why I'm a tend to do the tissue decal advocate now. It might take a try or 2, but at less than 1-3 cents for 5 sheets of decal paper, I'm a believer. (of course the backing, tape, glue stick should be included in that price). The sealer (Krylon), and the inks get used on all types of decals.

Sorry for frustration on the Testor's decals, let me know if you try the tissue method and how you like it. They do work well when done and sealed before placement. If not sealed they are just like any tissue covering job. Versatile is the key. disintegrate

Good luck, love your plane!

Fred

Thanks for this tutorial. I have some "fantasy warbird" ideas. This looks perfect for.
Dave

Fred,

Thanks for posting this very helpful thread, it is appreciated. I have a project right now that I have been working on. Im almost to the point of needing decals. As soon as I give this a crack, I will post pics.

Dan

Fred,
Thanks for excellent tutorial.
I have been making tissue decals for a while now but your extra information will make them a lot better I am sure.