HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Dec 26, 2012, 07:42 AM
Registered User
MikeSawicki's Avatar
Joined Mar 2009
447 Posts
I could not have done it without your tutorial.
Will post photos as soon as I figure out how to do it from the iPad.
MikeSawicki is offline Find More Posts by MikeSawicki
RCG Plus Member
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Dec 26, 2012, 01:36 PM
Registered User
jeffsch's Avatar
Seattle, USA
Joined Oct 2009
898 Posts
Merry Christmas Freddie! Thank you for sharing your techniques in this thread (and many others) and for being a gracious friend to us all at such different stages in the hobby.
jeffsch is online now Find More Posts by jeffsch
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 26, 2012, 06:54 PM
Depron Daz
Daz393's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Basingstoke
Joined Feb 2012
1,117 Posts
Hi guys.

What would be the UK equivalent of Krylon? Is it an acrylic clear rattle can from the motor factors shop, like the clear coat you use on metallic painted plastic bumpers?
I've just hand painted my roundels on my Blenheim, and although they're not too bad, they would've looked a million times better with this method, and I like the cheapness of this too!
If there are any UK readers of this that can answer the above I would really appreciate it.

Thanks

Daz
Daz393 is offline Find More Posts by Daz393
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 26, 2012, 07:17 PM
Addicted to building...
Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
Joined Feb 2006
5,999 Posts
Daz,

Krylon is Lacquer paint. I am sure Lacquer is available there. Light weight, goes on thin, very fast dry, and not awfully expensive. Usually used in automotive finish on custom jobs, because they can do the'Candy Apple' type finishes. Rattle cans are available in most box stores as 'Lacquer' and most have Krylon also.

Fred
Freddie B is offline Find More Posts by Freddie B
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 26, 2012, 07:26 PM
Depron Daz
Daz393's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Basingstoke
Joined Feb 2012
1,117 Posts
Hi Fred.
That sounds like what I thought it was. Clear coat automotive paint.

My concern is that will this stiffen the tissue too much? I will be trying this out soon and will post pics.

Thanks
Daz393 is offline Find More Posts by Daz393
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 27, 2012, 03:12 PM
Addicted to building...
Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
Joined Feb 2006
5,999 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daz393 View Post
Hi Fred.
That sounds like what I thought it was. Clear coat automotive paint.

My concern is that will this stiffen the tissue too much? I will be trying this out soon and will post pics.

Thanks
Some people actually use "Krylon Paint" (Lacquer) to finish tissue airplanes instead of Dope. Spray on a few light coats letting it dry in-between with a light sanding. It does not shrink as much as dope does, but works for many builders.

Fred
Freddie B is offline Find More Posts by Freddie B
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 27, 2012, 03:13 PM
Addicted to building...
Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
Joined Feb 2006
5,999 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffsch View Post
Merry Christmas Freddie! Thank you for sharing your techniques in this thread (and many others) and for being a gracious friend to us all at such different stages in the hobby.
And the same 'Merry Christmas" and a "Happy New Year" to you also Jeff! You are welcome BTW, and I am happy to have you as a friend also! Take care buddy.

Fred
Freddie B is offline Find More Posts by Freddie B
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:16 PM
Registered User
MikeSawicki's Avatar
Joined Mar 2009
447 Posts
Lozenge mounting update - lessons learned.
1) Minwax has its advantages. After first dismissing Minwax, I've done a 180 and think it is the best solution for adhering the lozenge sheets. I'd made up a test portion of wing and experimented with Minwax, white glue diluted and dope. Initially, I thought the dope was the best since it gave a quick and firm seal of the transfer to the underlying airframe. Additional work however showed that Minwax takes longer to dry and thus allows more time to reposition the panels into place. Dope also, especially when "hot" with thinner, allowed the undercoat of Krylon to seep through. If not using an undercoat, this would not be a problem. The dope also gave the most matte finish. I'd meant to try using dope straight, I.e. with no thinner, but ran out of test space.
2) the white undercoat, again Krylon sprayed directly onto the surface of the airframe, gives the best color making it more vivid than the transfers placed over clear doped airframe. I later remembered Freddie suggesting undercoating the transfer but did not think to do this in time. I can report that the lozenge looks much better with white undercoat. I also tried light gray but preferred the white as it made the colors stand put more.
3) wrinkles are kept to a minimum if you attach one side of the lozenge strip, for me it was the trailing edge, with a simple glue stick. This gave enough tack to pull the strip taut and then lay a coat of Minwax or dope under it. Then roll the strip down tight and most wrinkles disappear. I think the dope did a better job of pulling out the wrinkles over the Minwax, but the difference is pretty close. The transfer film, if you will, does not seem to shrink with heat gun or iron. I guess this is good since it does not distort the lozenge pattern. Downside is that some wrinkles were impossible to get rid of.
4) overlap. If you overlap portions of the lozenge you will end up with a much darker almost solid line where the two pieces cover each other. I'm planning to use this effect to simulate rib tape, an idea I saw in another build log.

Well, that's what I've learned so far. I'll try to upload pictures later.
MikeSawicki is offline Find More Posts by MikeSawicki
RCG Plus Member
Last edited by MikeSawicki; Dec 28, 2012 at 03:18 PM. Reason: Typos
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 30, 2012, 01:11 PM
Addicted to building...
Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
Joined Feb 2006
5,999 Posts
Thank you Mike. That was great information and very through! Much appreciated!

Fred
Freddie B is offline Find More Posts by Freddie B
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 12, 2013, 05:22 PM
The world in foam & tissue
Rasterize's Avatar
United States, NY, Rochester
Joined May 2010
620 Posts
Hi Fred and thread viewers!
Hope you don't mind reviving this thread a bit. I have done a far bit of printing on tissue but I have yet to try Freds method of decal making. That changed today.
My intended "victims" are a WMPF Mako that was born to help me design and model decal sets and the wing of my Lazertoyz Fenix 150 both of which are going with me to NEAT in a few weeks. Getting the girls dressed up to go out I guess. The surface of the foam on the Mako is scared from many vinyl removal sessions. So I decided to use Fred's method to make decals to pretty up these two.
Since I print on 13X30 sheets of tissue, I attached the whole sheets to a couple of sheets of the old blue FFF as a spraying surface. The top side is sprayed with several coats of Krylon Polyurethane (cheap at $6 a can) as the Mako is a water craft and these decals must be water proof! When dry, the revers side will be hit with Krylon white as the Fenix 150 wing is black/blue and the decals going on it (Fenix 150 text and the City of Phoenix logo) are white.
When done, I'll post pics of the results. Wish me luck!
Rasterize is offline Find More Posts by Rasterize
RCG Plus Member
Old Aug 14, 2013, 05:20 PM
Addicted to building...
Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
Joined Feb 2006
5,999 Posts
Wishing you luck! But more so success! Nice to see a breath of fresh air in this thread. Please show the results. Those decals look terrific! But all you work usually does!

Fred
Freddie B is offline Find More Posts by Freddie B
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 15, 2013, 08:34 AM
The world in foam & tissue
Rasterize's Avatar
United States, NY, Rochester
Joined May 2010
620 Posts
Thanks! I'll need it. I'm not following your instructions exactly, so any failure is on me. I coated the polyurethane (not polycylic, one of my twists) kind of heavy. I'm hoping these decals could go on and RC sub when I'm done! The blue and white wing to the Fenix didn't need the water proof qualities but I wanted to test it since it's EPP foam. However, mostly it's a test to see if I could coat a large sheet without the sheet being under tension when sprayed. 13X30 is kind of big.
Thanks for the compliment. Coming from you than means a lot!
Rasterize is offline Find More Posts by Rasterize
RCG Plus Member
Old Aug 15, 2013, 09:02 AM
Addicted to building...
Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
Joined Feb 2006
5,999 Posts
Sounds great. I have done decals and post covered with a more water proof top coat. However I wouldn't trust anything I've done so far on a sub! This would be cool on the seaplane like you have made. I'll be watching for the details of how this turns out. I'm not building right now so I'll enjoy being a part by watching your efforts.

Fred
Freddie B is offline Find More Posts by Freddie B
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 15, 2013, 10:20 AM
The world in foam & tissue
Rasterize's Avatar
United States, NY, Rochester
Joined May 2010
620 Posts
Fenix 150

Here is my completed (are they really ever?) Fenix 150.
The Fenix 150 lettering on the wing is adhered with a white glue/WBPU.
The Fenix circle logo (my apologies to the city of Phoenix for pinching their logo ) was fixed using 3M 77 spay on the back of the decal. I wanted to see the pros and cons of each in the application/durability departments.
The Fenix 150 lettering and background on the forward engine mount was actually tissue as well but no white backing (the foam being white) and using polycylic after the "skin" (since it covered the whole part) was applied to the completed part. This was affixed with 3M77.
The Fenix 150 lettering on the tail is vinyl lettering cut on my wifes cutter.
On a side note, I did take a picture of the EPP foam and used that in the making of the decal art so that the Fenix circle logo for example is just a circle shaped decal and I didn't have to fuss with all the little "flame" parts when applying. I also used this in the making of the custom canopy/air cooling system to make Model Plane foam look more like EPP.
Rasterize is offline Find More Posts by Rasterize
RCG Plus Member
Old Aug 15, 2013, 10:34 PM
Registered User
United States, TN, Blountville
Joined Oct 2002
3,643 Posts
That is some cool work on the Fenix 150, some nice touches.
RAFster is offline Find More Posts by RAFster
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Wanted Any type of NOS plane tbroeski Aircraft - Sailplanes (FS/W) 0 Mar 24, 2010 04:46 PM
Wanted Cub wheels 3.5" to 5" for 1/4 or 1/5 scale model MinneFlyer Aircraft - General - Miscellaneous (FS/W) 0 Mar 13, 2010 01:52 PM
Discussion Any ULM scale model ? zaguruinzasky Scale Kit/Scratch Built 0 Jan 05, 2010 06:59 AM
Discussion Decals for DB scale military model TERHUT Parkflyers 2 Dec 31, 2008 12:33 PM
Discussion GWS scale model decals inedesca Electric Warbirds 0 Feb 19, 2006 02:13 PM