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Fred
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Fred
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Freddie B - Excellent thread! Just stumbled across this and WOW! I've been wanting to do something different (a Dutch Navy Scheme) with my electrifly Tiger Moth and I think you've provided the 'solution', Thank you!
![]() If anyone's interested, go to http://www.warbirdkits.com/kits.html and check out the site. You can download the markings for any of their kits from the web site! They're .PDF documents of the actual decal sheets for the kits but there are a number of national insignias and squadron markings you may find useful. Enjoy! ~ Robin |
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Best info I have is that Krylon is a propritory brand very similar to Lacquer based paint. Very light, fast drying. This is esential to protecting the decals from moisture before using the white glue, WBPU or Poly Acrylic top coats and as an application medium. In looking at Krylon Brand paint as a sealer, the materials in it are heavy on Acetone and that is why it drys so quick! Poly Acrylic, or WBPU might work well in a sprayer as you mention, or may not. Depends on how fine it sprays and does not clog???? But that will be for top coating. Please use a clear Lacquer sealing spray first. Fred
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A Mirage 2000 C (5) done in Austrailian Markings.
I keep forgetting to come back and post my newer projects, shame on me! So here is the latest just done today. This is 1/48th scale EDF jet, a French designed, Mirage 2000 C, single seat fighter plane. I picked Austrailian markings because Austrailia is an English speaking, American Allies. I didn't want to do French Decals, and the French version is so common. I did a very quick carrier sheet with glue stick to mount my domestic gift wrapping tissue paper. Ran it through the printer. In fact I did 3 sheets, all in less than 1/2 hour because I was playing around and have a new printer. I did one in clear coat (Krylon which is Lacquer type paint), left one raw, in case, and the last one was sprayed clear on the top, and then I opened up the carrier sheet and sprayed the back white. I am covering a darker model, so I needed to make the decals less 'transparent'. I used Water based Wood glue, and it was the 'yellow type', Tightbond II specificly, to mount these decals. I diluted the glue 70%/30% glue to water, Brushed glue on the backside, waited about 1 minute, placed the decal, and wiped glue on top. Then I blotted the top coat and pressed out the wrinkles, if any, and to remove all air bubbles, etc. They were stuck good once dry (I wanted to remove a couple, thats how I know). I did give a quick top coat later using Polycrylic to seal and prtect them. Entire jet, ready to fly, with battery, 24g. Yes 24 grams! Here is a Link to my Mirage Jet Build Log, if you are interested. Take a look, and hope you enjoy. Fred ![]()
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Joined Mar 2009
114 Posts
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FreddieB - thanks so much for the tutorial. I've tried to follow your method to replicate lozenge covering on an AerodromeRc Fokker DVII. I'm to the point of placing the strips over Polyspan covered wings.
I was wondering if the WBPU and white glue method would work for that large of an area? I did not see any feedback in the prior posts about anyone doing this And this is basically my first ever build so did not want to screw up too dramatically. Any advice would be appreciated. |
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You are welcome.
I am not so sure I would do that with a very large area. Polyspan is a different material than I usually utilize, so I would experiment on a scrap test piece first. I wonder if a mist of spray glue like Super 77 and then tack the edges after stretching, then do a post top coating. I have heard of using Acrylic floor wax like Pledge (with Future Shine) to cover a whole airframe using tissue. I might have to try something like that. Let me know what you try and how it works. Fred
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Joined Mar 2009
114 Posts
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I decided to build up a test piece of wing from left over parts. So far I can report that the Minwax does not seem to work well. I have also tried sealing with dope, which has given best results so far. I also tried, but quickly eliminated, the glue stick and white glue methods, they did not adhere to then oped Polyspan. The good news is that the Kryloned pieces are easy to apply and hold their color even after exposure to dope and Minwax. I have also found, and continue to experiment with, using a bar coat of white or light gray under the decal. It improves the final color considerably.
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