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Old Jun 15, 2010, 11:54 PM
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Delta, BC, Canada
Joined Oct 2003
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Keep transmitter off. Plug in receiver battery. Wait. Light on receiver should start flashing. (If you can see it.) Receiver is now in bind mode.

Now turn on transmitter into bind mode. Wait a few seconds.

Done.

HobbyZone Champ Binding Tips (1 min 16 sec)
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 12:13 AM
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UNGN's Avatar
Southlake, TX
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nunja Business View Post
OK, so I got a DX5e for a deal. Has anyone here bound their Champ to one?
Everything I can find refers to binding it with the AR500 that comes with it and using the "binding plug".
I don't have to replace the stock RX in the Champ with the AR500 do I?

What is the exact procedure for binding with the Champ?
Or alternately, maybe ... I DO want to replace what's in there with the other (maybe better) RX? How hard is that?

TIA for any guidance!
Plug in plane battery with Trans off.

Wait for plane's brick to flash.

Turn on TX while holding the Trainer toggle.

It should bind in about 5-10 seconds.
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 12:48 AM
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Beaumont, TX
Joined Feb 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nunja Business View Post
Or alternately, maybe ... I DO want to replace what's in there with the other (maybe better) RX? TIA for any guidance!
No, you really, really don't want to do that.
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 02:00 AM
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Wichita, Ks.
Joined Feb 2004
224 Posts
I wonder if it could be powerlines causing some of the problems folks are having. If you go back and check my last video, you will see an instance where my brother lost contact with it after going behind lines. This happened twice in the same spot and we have never had any other trouble with it. I know it was the powerlines. We fly out in the country so there are not a lot of powerlines around but those of you in the city may have trouble.

I still love this plane because I know I can always get a good flight in with it. I had a not so perfect landing with my new Yak-12 tonight and I really hate to end a day of flying on a bad landing. Unfortunately, the Yak will need repairs before it flys again so, I just grabbed the Champ and flew it until I was able to do a perfect landing! Now all is right in the world!
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 03:30 AM
No, I dont work for HH ;)
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Southampton, Hampshire, UK
Joined Sep 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hacker002 View Post
may I ask where you bought the camera? looking for one.
They are known as keychain camera's or 808 cams. Theres a couple of huge threads here on RCG. Can be brought of eBay for $12 shipped from HK. Etoponline has known to be a good seller but he has introduced a lesser quality kind of camera but they are around. You want what is known as a type 3 camera (the sellers won't give this name to them) as there are 5 or 6 different kinds now. Chucklohr.com/808 will be a definitvie guide to the diffrent kinds of camera's and tips and tricks with them. But basically you want one with a removeable SD card, advertised as 25-30fps recording.
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 03:54 AM
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United States, WA, Woodinville
Joined May 2010
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I installed a stripped down keychain camera inside my Champ.

Note the wires are taped down here so they don't dangle into view.



From this mount point, the tip of the prop is visible in the images but as you will see the camera can easily be adjusted to look down a little bit more. (Obviously the ground under the plane is too close to be in focus.)



There is easily enough room inside the fuselage for the circuit board. A couple of foam scraps act as shims and braces, keeping the circuit board pointing down at an angle. By fiddling with the scraps, you can change how far down the camera looks. No adhesives are used here so the camera can be easily removed to access the card slot or USB port.



I removed the battery from the camera and wired it into onboard power. Hey, there's appropriate looking voltage here, let's try it! Well, it's a servo connection point... maybe not the best choice. You can get juice from these points on the receiver. There is a problem with the camera stopping recordings after a few moments, so a raw battery tap might be better. Waiting on parts.


Yeah, don't take power from here.

OK, so with the camera sealed up inside the fuselage, how do you operate it? I used 30 AWG wire to extend the switches to a pair of buttons scavenged from another board.



Overview of the installation:



A short flight:

Hobby Zone Champ RTF with onboard camera: test flight (0 min 32 sec)


Things of note:
  • Total weight of aircraft: 48 g with a Turnigy 160 battery. That is 10 g more than stock with the stock battery. Reducing wire length and the amount of foam in the shims might shave off half a gram.
  • COG is somewhere close to 35 mm from the leading edge of the wing, if the battery is all the way forward. In stock configuration, it's about 28 mm. The plane flies OK if you add lots of down elevator trim but it's a bit tail heavy and wants to climb. I need to add a little more ballast to the nose.
  • I think the buttons I found aren't that great. Whatever I replace them with, since you can't see the LED you need to memorize the timing to operate the camera. (Actually if it is dusk you can see the LED inside the fuse, barely.)
  • How about a plastic rod for a light pipe, poking through a tiny hole in the fuselage, so you could see the LED? This is worth experimenting with.
  • If the battery voltage drops too low while recording you get a corrupt file. I am not sure yet how long you can fly before the camera will stop working. I'll have to do some tests.
  • I have a 5043 prop for the Champ but it flew fine with the stock prop.
  • Jamming the camera into place with foam seemed to work. It's a tight fit and I the Champ doesn't pull enough g's to shake it loose.
  • Any way to use an extra channel on the RX for the camera button, I wonder?

I am sure there is much room for improvement!

Update for first flight:
- Edited text/pics above with new button installation
- Camera stops recording after about 30 seconds. There is probably a loose connection, or maybe the buttons are not vibration proof, OR maybe the power tap is not a great idea--if the voltage is processed and not raw, perhaps it drops far enough at some point that the camera dies. I plan to add a tap at the battery when I get some parts in the mail.
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Last edited by horseflesh; Jun 17, 2010 at 11:51 AM.
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 04:01 AM
No, I dont work for HH ;)
Bowerz's Avatar
Southampton, Hampshire, UK
Joined Sep 2009
3,776 Posts
Love this set up. If i get a cub i'm gonna be sure to give it a go!
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 04:15 AM
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United States, WA, Woodinville
Joined May 2010
336 Posts
I just hope it is still fun to fly. 9g is a lot of extra weight for this tiny plane.
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 04:17 AM
No, I dont work for HH ;)
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Southampton, Hampshire, UK
Joined Sep 2009
3,776 Posts
I have some idea's to keep the weight around the 7g mark and still make it easily removeable.
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 07:04 AM
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Southlake, TX
Joined Jan 2008
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It looks tail heavy.

It might be better to move the brick back and the camera forward to avoid adding nose weight.

There appears to be a perfect shelf for the brick 4" back from the stock location. Pushrods are easy enough to shorten if you have .8mm heat shrink from DealExtreme

Swap the motor with one from a 4 site or Mustang to get longer wires to reach the brick (and get more power in the deal).
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 07:41 AM
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Joined Oct 2007
702 Posts
Has anyone found a paint match for touch ups?
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 07:42 AM
The building never ends!
Tucson, AZ
Joined Oct 2008
1,056 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by horseflesh View Post
I just hope it is still fun to fly. 9g is a lot of extra weight for this tiny plane.
Loops and rolls take a bit more finesse to pull off, flight speed is faster and landing speed is a touch higher, but as long as you've got the balance sorted out, the Champ really doesn't mind.

Heck, with a little headwind, you can take off from rocky dirt with just six feet of plywood. Even with an unmodified keychain camera (that's something like 12-13 grams extra weight instead of 9,) one can get the Champ airborne before one runs out of runway.

Just like that.
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 08:07 AM
Can we lift the embargo?
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menands flats, NY
Joined Dec 2006
1,615 Posts
Had a crash and the fuselage broke where the motor mounts (see below) so I had to take apart my Champ. Didn't seem many pics with our bird open and thought it could be of some use. It is very easy to get to the gizzards just some clear tape then all I did was remove the silicone GENTLY pull up the mount, squirt hot glue in there and hold until it hardened. Piece of cake. Did lose some paint though. Also I put on the GWS 5043 Prop, (you need an adapter) seems like it has more vertical lift (using a Turnigy 160mah battery.) I put a drop of CA on the prop/adapter set up not sure if it was necessary. The pix below are with the stock prop not the 5043.





I also put together another Frankenbird (aerobird with a 1300 3s lipo, brushed esc, AR6100e DSM2 RX and a aeroswift oversized vtail) Last one went dang near vertical. It is a screamer
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 08:15 AM
crd
Always thinkering
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United States, FL
Joined Nov 2006
1,231 Posts
I got my first flight today on this champ, and I love it. it glides very nicelly, battery flight time was over 12min NOT BAD , I just installed a 250mah battery and it added a little more weight but it flies smoother and hopefully I can double the flight time.

Next mod will be adding a keychain camera
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 10:46 AM
Paradise R/C Flyers in NY
bhcnomo's Avatar
United States, NY, Utica
Joined May 2010
970 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by horseflesh View Post
Tonight I installed a stripped down keychain camera inside my Champ.
great post lots great info
mounting the camera close to the center line of fuselage make the plane more stable

plastic rod for a light pipe
tiny PCB membrane switches mounted to side of plane close to the camera
will use less wire
i think is the way go

don't forget if you plug in that camera to the usb
your going to feed 5 volts and about 500 mA or more into your rx until you but that power jack on the rx

do you know if the power wires for the camera are soldered on rx board are before or after the
lvc
i think you can use the lvc circuit from the camera battery some how

once you get that sorted out
you could leave the camera in and cut a small hole for the usb
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