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Old Mar 22, 2010, 04:07 PM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
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Build Log
STARMAX F16-90mm BUILD THREAD

Well I have started in on the new build, apologies to the guys following the Hawk build, will get back to that asap, as I have already done the Hawk in the past I felt that was a good excuse to jump into the F16 hehe.


For the F16 build I have decided on a hot 6 cell setup, there are a few local guys about to do 8 cell setups so I figured best I do the 6s one.

I am undecided on retracts yet, as the other guys are also doing SpringAir retracts I might do a hand launch version.

I am not glassing this model, just bracing the tail area with carbon so the elevators dont rip off at hi speed

I was thinking of designing a boxed in section in lite ply like I first did with the rear end of the ERC/Phase3 F16, but as it will be difficult to match the paint I figured best to work out a way of bracing that will not require repainting the rear end. I think I have come up with a really nice way to do it but will butcher the model first before I suggest the method!
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Old Mar 22, 2010, 04:07 PM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
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OK, started with the wings, I decided to use the MSD65M Sapac micro digital servos for the flap setup as they have huge holding torque, pretty much lock solid at whatever point they are positioned which is needed for flaps, and especially with the Leading Edge flaps the F16 has.

I used BATAN B1122 ball bearing servos for the ailerons, tiny bit of foam trimming and they dropped in nicely. All the links lined up well, everything fitted just as you would hope, a good start!!

Rudder got a B1122 servo as well, again easy fit, I installed all the servos with very high quality double sided tape, not the foam stuff, the stuff that is glue on a roll, 3M or similar gets you superb holding strength. I intend to cover the servos with masking tape then mix up some Tamiya grey paint to blend in the tape to the wing underside as you can see in the photos below.
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Old Mar 22, 2010, 04:13 PM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
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Ok next up I looked at the rear end and the typical weak spot of all foam F16's, the tail booms.

My original bracing design for the small F16 which became a Phase3 template) worked really well for that model, being unpainted it was not such a big deal to box the rear of the fuse in.

This kit being beautifully finished presents more of an issue for matching paint etc. With that said I have decided that at least one ply panel is needed in order to spread some of the stress load and also help hold in the servos and tail blocks.

Photo shows the end result, I have designed templates for this (took a WHILE!) and will have the Taileron mod kit available that will include the wood panels and carbon fibre strip for the horizontal strengthening portion of the mod. The wood panel stiffens up the vertical plane of movement quite well and overlaps the long wood bearers inside the fuse that join the two halves together.

The carbon strip will be inserted into the outer sides of the rear pylons, a 10mm deep slot will be cut using a ruler and brand new snap off blade, the carbon will then be inserted into this slot and epoxied into place, it will give a clean line on the outside of the fuse requiring no paint work and will give very good sideways strength.
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Old Mar 22, 2010, 04:14 PM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
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Ok I have been working on the rear end today and finished off the bracing, installed the servos and elevator mounting blocks, its all pretty stiff along the pylons now, fuse has been joined together and I am setting up the power system tomorrow and will finish off the servo wiring.

The bracing consists of the precut ply panel which completely stiffens up the pylon, and a 10mm wide carbon strip ebedded into the side of the rear section, together they have changed the pylons completely, the wood also helps lock the servos and elevator mounting blocks into place.

You can see in one photo the carbon strip inserted into a slot down the outside of the pylon, simple mod that is clean and doesnt require painting.

Servo wiring has been routed up away from the power wiring, I have experienced bad glitching from having rear elevator servo wiring too close to the ESC power wiring in an old A7 corsair kit, best to use your soldering iron and run some new trenches away from the main wiring. Use masking tape to seal it all in and start from the back, working forward with your masking tape sections, this way it cannot lift up and peel back into the fan. I also rub a little 5min epoxy into the edges of the tape once I am ready to close up the fuse, this stops it from lifting.
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Old Mar 23, 2010, 02:57 PM
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The only thing I don't like about the Landing Gear is that you have to install the servo up side down. There's now way to adjust it and you can't take it out when its in. If you find another way around this please let me know. Other then that the kit is great. Tried to install electric landing gear but the struts are so well designed and beefed up, the best I've ever seen. Striped out a couple of gears because of the weight of the struts.
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Old Mar 23, 2010, 05:26 PM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
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Yeah the upside down servos can be an issue for working on, if you get the Starmax servo set they are pretty tough metal gear servos, should not need to replace them unless you really hammer something.

As I am doing a HL version I wont be fiddling with the retracts, I would just put springair 602's in if I was going to do retracts, use the steel legs with the 602's for mains and the starmax leg on the front with the steering servo, I checked it all and besides having to purchase some stub axles for the mains the install would be simple.
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Old Mar 24, 2010, 04:52 PM
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Someone asked if there were gear doors----Yes gear doors do come with the kit. They don't tell you how its installed.
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Old Mar 25, 2010, 06:00 AM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
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I have decided to use the ARC3665-1 inrunner, 2200 watts on 6 cells in a Midifan, so I will use an HET9305 fan which cuts the amp draw back around 10 or so, I think 1800-2000 watts should be sufficient for a hand launch version!

The thrust tube is being used to gauge fitment, its obviously too short for this model!

I have also decided to move the fan back 20mm, this moves the rear of the fan into a more open area in the fuse allowing the thrust tube to sit without the need for foam removal and will allow more adjustment of battery position, I will of course test the CG before I screw the fan down and finalise the position!

Another bonus is the distance from the back of the fan to the end of the fuse is now 253mm and the longest Wemotec thrust tubes available (and that I have on order) are 250mm! Perfect or what

I feel it needs a thrust tube, the area behind the fan is large and the outlet is oversize for a 90mm fan. I have no interest in TV vectoring so the thrust tube is going to make life very easy, plus I will get the best flow and efflux out of the fan.
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Old Mar 27, 2010, 02:30 AM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
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Finished wiring up the power system and did some testing, running an ARC3665-1 in an HET9305 on our E-LITE 5000mah 6s1p 30c packs I get 2200 watts at 98 amps and 40,700rpm. About 3.5kg thrust, I think thats enough for this little foamy

I am soo tempted to screw in the springairs and set it up with wheels....Damn I wana fly it next week! Should be almost finished tomorrow, will check CG and report on gear position.

The other thing I have been looking at is the actual CG, I reckon like most F16's its too far back, I will start at 90mm not 110mm...
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Old Mar 27, 2010, 02:20 PM
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Sweet i have been waiting for a F-16 90mm foamy for ages. keep up the the good work and i will be following closely. we so need a Extreme Rc in the UK,,, cant you move on over...
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Old Mar 28, 2010, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j6myw View Post
... need a Extreme Rc in the UK,,, cant you move on over...
Once upon a time, you'd just need to steal a loaf of bread to get a free one-way boat ride from the UK to Australia.

Move over here. The flying's great all year 'round!

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Old Mar 28, 2010, 06:24 AM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
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I got it up to close up stage now, will get photos tomorrow, too buggered to do anything more tonight. All wiring had been buried in the intake walls away from the batt wires, a quick look at CG and it may very well be tail heavy on 5000 6s1p packs with the fan 20mm back, I didnt have the tails on or thrust tube, will revisit this as it gets closer to being ready.

j6myw, easy enough to send stuff over to the UK, I do it often, fans, motors, upgrade parts, its not that expensive for registered airmail. You can get the kit from Asia then use the stock fan housing and add a wemo rotor and shaft adapter, motor, esc, pretty well good to go.
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Old Mar 28, 2010, 07:34 AM
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Cool cheers i am very interested in your ARC3665-1 motor puts out awesome power,
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Old Mar 30, 2010, 08:06 AM
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Thanks for all the valuble information.Do you know if the built in BEC in the 100amp Platinum ESC is able to handle the servo load ,or will you be using an external UBEC?
I'll be building the Starmax F18 with the same setup and SpringAir retracts.My thought was to use the ARC 3665-1, and the Midifan Pro,but not shure if the 100A Platinum ESC can handle full throttle on this setup.

Thanks again, and what a great looking F16! If it flys as good as it looks,you've got a winner.
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Old Mar 30, 2010, 04:57 PM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
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I think the ESC will handle the 9305, the Wemo will take it over 100A at WOT with the right batteries.

I will be using a 5A external BEC I think, I always add a JST flylead into my wiring looms so I have the option of plugging in a BEC of any kind. Easy enough to disconnect the red wire from the ESC lead itself if needed.

As I have 4 small digital servos and 3 regular micros I am not 100% sure the ESC will handle the load even though the flap servos and rudder will likely sit there most of the time.

I have finished off the wiring and will post up photos later today, Just waiting for the thrust tubes to arrive so I can fit it and assemble to check CG.

The other thing I have done is to remove the LE flaps and replace the hinges, I knocked one and pulled the tiny pin hinge out of one side of the wing, that was all the reason I needed to replace them with wide CA hinges, 4 on each side, has allowed me to butt the flaps right up against the main wing, made them stiffer and I think more reliable at the higher speeds these hot power systems will produce.

There is a weak part to the fuselage, across the wing where the servo leads go, when the lower ducting is not in place you can flex the fuse there quite easily and it would snap in half without huge effort. Its either a case of carbon rods through each side or glue the fan hatch to the front and rear section of the lower duct so you cannt flex it. I will glue the hatch down front and rear and use the supplied screw system into the ply plates to secure it down to the main fuse, that way I can just slice along the glue joints if I need to lift it out. If thats not stiff enough then I will add some carbon.
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