|Mar 21, 2010, 07:23 PM|
Building a Super Cub LP from parts.
SC LP build from parts. post 1
Building a Super Cub LP from parts.
The goal here is to build a Super Cub (SC) with the stock motor but better electronics then are provided by HobbyZone. A lot of guys buy a new SC and after flying a while notice they are having problems with
the 27Mhz stock radio. It either falls apart or gets interfered with by some outside source causing lack of control and eventually a crash. This build we will use a Spectrum DX5E 2.4GhZ with a either a ar6110e or ar500 RX. Either will work with the DX6i also. The end result will be a stock powered SC with a good radio system running on a 3 cell lipo that will be easily upgradable to a brushless power system without having to replace out all of the HZ electronics. Adding ailerons as your skills improve will also be simpler to accomplish. Adding a small camera for AV or AP (video/photography) is also an option you may want to
peruse as you upgrade. No need to buy a whole new plane as you grow in this hobby as the SC can grow with you, but you need to start out right so you don't wast money on parts you will never use again.
You can start hording the grocery money a little at a time, week by week, and get all the parts one at a time before the wife even notices.
Below is a list of the air frame parts you will need. Go to your local hobby shop for these as most are stocked there. You can order them online but this way saves on shipping. If they are not in stock, most will order them
in for you.
Fuse: Includes firewall, control rods, battery box/cage with door and wing post. Part# HBZ7385 $25.99
Wing with struts: HBZ7120 $18.99
Complete Tail: Includes horizontal and vertical stab with tail wheel and control horns.Part# HBZ7125 $11.39
Motor: HBZ7134 $10.44
Gear Box: HBZ7129 $8.99
Landing gear: HBZ7106 $5.99
Cowl: HBZ7126 $2.99
Decal Sheet (blue LP): HBZ7310 $3.99
Spinner (for prop): HBZ7107
Don't worry about a prop right now. Were not spending $3.99 for a 9x6. We'll use a GWS 9x6DD or 10x6DD for a buck each. I'll run amp draw test on both to see what works best when we get to that point.
Radio: A DX5e is a good starter. Retail new is $59. Check the FORSALE section here on RCGroups under radios and they can be had for 35-50 bucks new. Guys buy Helis or RTF's and it comes with one. They have a DX6i so the sell it off. I got a new one there for 40 bucks. Same with a rx (ar6110e or ar500) though they are very popular and don't last long. A new 6110e is 36 bucks and a 500 is 50. The 6110e is a park flyer rx and the 500 is a full range which means the 500 will handle longer distances. But don't be afraid of the 6110e, chances are you will fly out of sight before losing your Rc link.
Another Radio: We've been talking about 2.4Ghz and it's what this build will use. You could sub a 72Mhz radio and Rx(receiver) instead. Actually most of my planes are 72Mhz. I just started using the 2.4 system and since it's the way the future is going, I figured I'd use that.
Finally, this build will not have ACT or X-Port active. If you want X-port to drop a parachute guy or something like that it can be done later with a servo on an extra channel. ACT will cause you more problems then it will
solve so don't worry about that.
1 more thing. If you are new are flying RC airplanes then I strongly suggest you get a flight simulator for you PC. You don't need a $200. software package to get a feel of the plane.
ESky makes a controller and gives you FMS (flying model simulator) for about 20 bucks. Get it. The software is Freeware and easy to use and upgrade. There are tons of models to download online including the SC so it will teach you the basic feel of the plane. It'll be the best 20 bucks you spend in this hobby.
That's it for now. For future reference, this and all post for the build will be in my blog.
Hit "comments" under the heading to get to the thread.
|Mar 22, 2010, 11:04 AM|
Joined Feb 2010
I have a RTF SC with the 27 mhz Tx/Rx. As I understand, the only component that I'd have to change to get it compatible with my DX5e would be the receiver. Is that correct?
The servos in the RTF are PKZ1070 (5-wire), the ones in the BNF are PKZ1060 (3 wire). I suppose they would also have to be changed.
It would be nice to be able to fly it using the TX that I'm used to.
|Mar 22, 2010, 08:23 PM|
These work well and are very cheap.
A 20 amp esc.
|Mar 28, 2010, 01:48 AM|
A few other things you will need for this LP Super Cub build.
A DX5e transmitter. List for like $59 bucks or you can find one on the ForSale section here.
A Spectrum 2.4 reciever, I'll be using a AR6110e
2 TP SG90 servos. You can use almost any servo you want but this is what I'm using.
Battery: There are alot of batteries that will work well with this plane but the stock LP Cub uses a 1300 3 cell so I will use that also, but not theirs. I ordered this one which has a good reputation.
ESC, electronic speed control. We need a BRUSHED esc for our stock brushed motor. I was trying to get everything here in the USA but for this you can't beat HobbyCity in China for price.
Basic stuff you need:
1. Hot glue gun. Get it from Walmart for 6 bucks.
2.Gorilla glue. Not used in the build but needed for repairs.
3. Packing tape. Clear 2 inches wide.
4. Exacto knife or utility knife.
5. Soldering iron or gun. Nothing fancy. Check HomeD Depot or Lowes or even WalMart. Something like this will do fine.
6. Solder. 40/60 rosin core. A small spool.
7. 3.5mm bullet connectors. 2 male, 2 female. And 2 deans connectors with heat shrink. Nice deal here...
More to come...
|Mar 28, 2010, 08:49 PM|
SC lipo build cont.
Time to start doing something. Hopefully you have all the air frame parts and you're ready to start doing something.
Some information first.
The wing and fuselage are made of what HZ calls "Z-Foam". It's very forgiving in a crash and glues together well with CA (super glue, regular NOT foam safe) Gorilla glue and my favorite, hot glue. BUT! (there's always a but, right?) The tail is made from another type foam with some kind of smooth covering. A friend of mine (NoFlyZone) says its depron. Hot glue and Gorilla will work fine on it but CA will eat a hole in it, so keep that in mind.
Also, this plane will use a lithium polymer battery. (Lipo) These are not as friendly as a NiCads or NiMh that you may have used before in RC. These batteries require a special charger and require extra attention when charging and storage. They make a fire proof lipo sack to charge these batteries in as a extra precaution and they should be stored in a metal fire-proof container when not in use. They are a potential fire hazard if not handled properly. If you OVERCHARGE this type battery it will swell and catch fire. You will need to use a balance charger made for the type and size battery you use. Most lipo chargers will do multiple battery types and have an adjustable amp setting. Charge rate should never be more then the total Mah divided by 1000. The battery we will use is a 1300 three cell lipo so it's max charge rate will be 1.3 amps. I charge most of my batteries at .8 amps just to be safe.
If you crash hard and bend, crush or somehow disfigure the battery you should discharge it (your new lipo charger will also discharge) and dispose of it. If you draw too many amps out of the battery while flying then it can provide it will swell up. This happens by having too low a C rating on the battery then your setup is drawing or by putting too large a prop on a plane. If this happens after a flight, let it sit OUTSIDE in a metal bucket away from anything flammable until its not warm. It may be salvageable but it's a case by case issue.
There are ways to test a setup to make sure the amps drawn by you motor does not exceed the battery capability and we will cover that later on.
Google search Lipo batteries and read the warnings and watch the YouTube vids on them so you understand fully what CAN happen if misused.
More to follow...
|Mar 30, 2010, 09:27 PM|
SC build from parts continued.
Start with your new fuse.
|Mar 31, 2010, 12:34 PM|
EDIT: I Think Atomic is out of Business Now... So disregard these links...
I bought all my parts through myatomic.com cheaper than list and free shipping. The non LP fuselage was cheaper than the LP Fuselage... Any reasons why?
HBZ7185 Bare Fuselage $17.89
HBZ7385 LP Bare Fuselage $22.09
HBZ7120 Standard Wing w/Struts $14.99
HBZ7125 Complete Tail $9.59
HBZ7106 Landing gear w/tires $4.79
HBZ7126 Cowl $2.29
HBZ7310 Decals SC LP $2.99
HBZ7134 Motor w/pinion $8.29
HBZ7129 Complete Gearbox $7.19 (Not in Stock)
HBZ7107 Spinner $0.79
I didn't use the original motor/gearbox. I cut a hole for a stick mount in front and glued it in. All I have to do is cut the stick off if I want to go back to a different mount. I might try an BL inrunner with the gearbox though.
Great thread. I might go back and add your other mods.
|Mar 31, 2010, 06:38 PM|
The LP fuse has the rear mount installed for the optional floats. That's about the only difference I see.
I'm building this one as a stock LP. The brushless upgrade will come later as will ailerons.
|Apr 04, 2010, 12:29 PM|
SC LP, the saga continues.
Lets make the battery box a bit stronger.
I used popsicle sticks with hot glue. Most the drilling you can do with a finger drill or just use a drill bit by hand.
|Apr 04, 2010, 03:19 PM|
Now if it hasn't fallen out of the fuse yet, yank out the cage from the top.
|Apr 05, 2010, 08:45 PM|
This is a great thread, I hope we can keep it alive.
I have plans to build from parts, add ailerons, paint and trim it to be a J3.
Does anyone know where to get the correct sized engine cylinders for my project?
|Apr 05, 2010, 08:55 PM|
I don't understand your question. This is a electric plane.
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