|Mar 19, 2010, 09:17 PM|
Golden Age Modelworks RYAN ST-A Official Build Thread
Just arrived, the new Golden Age Modelworks RYAN ST-A.
Available at www.airshowrc.com
The construction is fiberglass fuse, cowl, wheel pants, rudder cone and battery hatch with scale details.
Wood wings and flying surfaces with air foiled trailing edges.
I will show and build this nice looking scale model.
As these are sold, I will welcome those of you who would like
to contribute to new or improved building methods and tips to
benefit our fellow modelers in the future.
This box was exceptionally well packed and wrapped.
Each is in an extra thick double box for protection.
I am rather surprised about the very smart package design.
It took me about a good 15-20 minutes to unpack and unwrap everything.
|Mar 19, 2010, 09:27 PM|
Golden Age Modelworks RYAN ST-A
Highly Detailed SCALE RYAN STA fiberglass and wood Park Flyer
Wingspan: 1112mm = 44 inches
Length: 810mm = 32 inches spinner to tail cone
Airframe weight: 906 grams = 2 pounds
AUW: 960grams = 2.2 pounds with 4s battery
Detailed fiberglass fuselage with Carbon fiber hard points and spars
|Mar 20, 2010, 12:20 PM|
|Mar 21, 2010, 12:34 AM|
Wing Assembly Golden Age Modelworks RYAN ST-A
Now for the build.
I think this will go rather quickly, looks very strait forward.
If you have assembly experience with ARF's big or small,
this should be easy for you.
1) Find the location on the bottom of the wing for (2) servos. Mark the cut line.
2) Using a hobby knife, trim out the servo holes and fish out the end of the sting that is preinstalled inside the wing that is used to pull through the servo wires. Be careful not to accidently pull the sting out of the wing.
3) Most likely you will need a servo extension for your aileron servo. It is best to add it to your servo before it is installed into the wing. Check for the correct length. Please consider that you will need several inches of extra length to go through the fuselage and plug in to your receiver.
4) It is important to add a drop of medium CA glue to join the servo lead and servo extension so that it will not pull apart from inside the wing if it were to be pulled on.
DO NOT USE TAPE. Tape will increase the diameter of the connecter and the connecter will not pass thru the 8th rib hole while feeding the servo wire thru the wing.
|Mar 21, 2010, 12:39 AM|
5) Fish the Flap servo wire through the hole in the spar.
Feed it through the rib holes along the leading edge of the wing, then out of the wing root.
6) Another method would be to tape one end of the plastic push rod tube to the end of the servo lead.
You can now guide the wire through the wing.
7) Yet another method would be to tape a heavy screw to the end of the servo lead.
With the wight of the heavy screw and gavity, you can now guide the wire through the wing.
8) Demonstrated here in these pictures
|Mar 21, 2010, 01:02 AM|
9) Looking toward the leading edge of the wing, This is the servo and servo arm arrangement of the bottom of the LEFT WING
10) Looking toward the leading edge of the wing, This is the servo and servo arm arrangement of the bottom of the RIGHT WING
11) Feel for and locate the wood block as the anchor point of the flap and aileron control horns.
12) Place the control horn in alignment of the servo arm and next to the leading edge of the aileron and flap.
Mark the holes with a scratch awl. Trim away the covering with your hobby knife . Draw the screws into the wood, then draw them back out.
13) Fill the holes with medium CA glue, then quickly, install the control horn with three screws.
|Mar 21, 2010, 01:14 AM|
14) Before installing the CA Hinges fold them in half and crease using a pair of pliers. Fold back opposite on itself and flex to loosen it up and make it more flexible.
15) Slide the CA Hinge into the slot in the aileron or flap.
Add some thin CA glue and let it wick into the hinge and wood. Then insert the aileron or flap into the slots in the wing side. Add some thin CA glue and let it wick into the hinge and wood.
16) Install the pushrod and clevis onto the control horn.
apply some tape to the pushrod to be marked for the 90 degree bend. Make sure your servo is centered before marking.
17) Make a 90 degree bend at the mark and cut the pushrod about ½ inch after the bend. Insert the push rod into the hole in the servo arm.
18) On the contron horn side of the push rod, you should always roll a slice of fuel tubing over the clevis to keep the clevis from separating from the control horn. On the servo side of the control horn, install a push rod lock.
|Mar 29, 2010, 11:08 PM|
Golden Age Modelworks RYAN ST-A Landing Gear Installation
Now, for the LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION
19) Mark the indentation in the wing for the landing gear wire for trimming. Trim out the covering film with your hobby knife.
20) Mix up some 5 minute epoxy and pour into the open channel and place the landing gear into the slot.
21) Using a 1/16 inch drill bit, drill the mounting holes into the wing through the landing gear straps.
22) Screw in the long screws through the landing gear straps.
23) Measure 8mm back from the leading edge of the wing and drill a 15/64 inch hole. Cut a 1 ¾ inch length of 1/4X1/4 inch wood. Glue and insert it into the hole. Trim away a 11/16 X 3/8 piece of film covering. Also cut a 11/16 length of 3/8 X 3/8 inch wood and glue joined with the ¼ X 1/4 wood. This will be the mounting block to attach the wheel pants.
24) Use a wire twist tie to attach the new wood brace to the landing gear. Coat the wood and wire tie with CA Glue for strength. Cut off the excess wire.
25) The wheel hubs will need to be drilled out to 1/8 inch to be able to slide over the landing gear axel. Slide the wheel pant over the landing gear. Install the wheel collars and wheel.
26) At the front of the leading edge of the wheel pants, drill a 1/16 inch hole through the wheel pants and underlying wood to accept the long screw.
27) At the rear trailing edge of the wheel pants, drill a 1/16 inch hole through the fiberglass and through the bottom of the wing. (Be careful not to drill too deep to the other side)
28) Insert a long screw to fasten the back of the wheel pants.
29) Drill the 1/16 inch holes on both sides of the wheel pants, through the fiberglass and into the underlying wood that you installed earlier. Insert two more screws into the sides.
30) Mark the wheel pant for trimming the wheel opening.
It is recommended so the wheel will not rub on the wheel pants during landing and takeoff. (This would cause damage to the wheel pants.)
31) Using a Dremel or similar tool, trim out the wheel opening.
32) This is what the finished installed wheel pant should look like.
|Apr 03, 2010, 03:49 PM|
Golden Age Modelworks RYAN STA Fuselage Assembly
Golden Age Modelworks RYAN STA Fuselage Assembly
33) Dremel out at least the front and rear holes in the wing root for the aileron and flap servo wires to pass
34) Using an 1/8 drill bit, drill the holes for the wing carbon fiber spars to pass through
35) Again, using an 1/8 drill bit, drill the holes for the horizontal stab carbon fiber spars to pass through
36) Note the the horizontal stabilizers have an airfoiled shape, make sure they are installed in the right direction shown by the arrows drawn in the Up position.
37) Now you should be able to insert the carbon fiber spars and slide on the horizontal stabs
|Apr 03, 2010, 04:46 PM|
Installing the Elevator Axle
38) Mark for the drilling location for the elevator axle.
Mark just behind the stab and the halfway thickness of the horizontal stab
39) Remove the wing panel so not to cause damage while drilling. Drill using the 2mm drill bit for the elevator axle.
40) Both sides, Drill using the 2mm drill bit for the elevator axle.
41) Insert the Elevator axle
42) Slide the wing panels back on and using the CA hinges, plug in the elevator panels to mark them for drilling the 2mm hole for the axle
|Apr 03, 2010, 04:59 PM|
Installing the Elevator Axle 2
43) Drill the 2mm hole where you marked for the elevator axle.
44) Slide the elevator panel on to confirm for a good fit
45) Cut a channel in the leading edge of the elevator panel to allow the axle to fit flush with the edge.
46) The channel should look like this
47) Using a good set of pliers, straignten one side of the elevator axel so you can slide on an axle collar
|Apr 03, 2010, 05:37 PM|
Installing the Elevator Axle 3
48) Insert a 3mm screw and horn into the axle collar.
Insert the axle into one side and the collar over the axle. Feed the axel through the other hole and re-bend the axel back to its U shape.
49) Center and tighten the axle collar and elevator horn assembly
50) Make sure the axel and horn are 90 degrees from each other
51) Using thin CA, glue in the CA hinges to the horizontal stab side.
52) Using medium CA, fill the channel for the elevator axle and plug in the elevator panel and finish gluing the CA hinges with thin CA glue.
53) Put together a push rod and clevis. Cut a slice of fuel tubing to use like a rubber band. This will hold the clevis together.
54) From the rear, slide the pushrod into the holes in the wood fuselage formers. Attach the push rod clevis to the elevator control horn, then slide up the rubber band to hold the clevis together.
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