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Old Jan 23, 2011, 06:58 PM
Eccentricus Magnus
Joined May 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by learnedinuk View Post
Little confused.

I am trying to set my wing up and everything works fine EXCEPT when I do the servo test I only have one servo moving. My assumption is that BOTH servos should be moving when put in test mode.

Am I missing something. I don't think autopilot will work properly if it does not move both servos when put in test mode.


learned. .that is NORMAL..

On a flying wing configuration, during servo test, the left aileron is inputting both UP and RIGHT (down aileron) at the same time, so they counter eachother and you will get zero movement.

you should get. . rudder going right. . right elevon going UP, left elevon staying still.

If the left elevon moves, you need to reverse your aileron movement direction. If the elevon goes down, reverse your elevator movement direction.

Kris Welter
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 07:51 PM
KB3VOJ
cherokee180c's Avatar
USA
Joined Sep 2007
2,591 Posts
Hey guys, I am back from getting lost deep in electronic troubleshooting land. After a week of trying just about everything, I finally WHIPPED my video interference problem!!!!! Here is a video describing the issue and solution:

Interference Problem (3 min 48 sec)


Even though I got a ton of help, nobody nailed this problem exactly, so I wanted to document it for everyone elses' benefit. It turned out, part of my problem was a dirty Hobby City 7.5 Amp BEC, which I replaced with a newer Hextronic 3A BEC, but the largest part was caused by powering my Dragon OSD from the Current Sensor. Even though the camera and VTx were grounded through the L-C filter attached directly to the deans connector immediately after the current sensor, the video was highly affected when my motor ran if powered by the current sensor. Once I finally ran a separate power wire to the OSD from the exact same spot the VTx and Camera were attached to, the problem was totally solved. The slight glitch in the lettering on the OSD in the video was actually caused by interference from my Dragon Link Transmitter to my mini DV player and didn't occur at all on my TV display. I also found out the background noise I was seeing was caused directly by the camera once I hooked it up directly up to a TV. If I want this to be any better, I will have to upgrade my $43 Securitycamera2000 camera. Anyway, hope this helps others, as this nearly drove me crazy. I replaced almost everything because I thought since the current sensor is an "approved" method of powering it couldn't be the problem, but that was totally wrong. Here is a video showing the new qualtiy video, which is basically pristine. This is even in a 2.4 gHz heavy interference location in my house and neighborhood. The last think left to do is to hook up the 20 turn 500 Ohm potentiometer to the video signal to dial out the ghosting issues and the final product will be perfect.

Video Test (1 min 32 sec)
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 08:19 PM
my karma ranover my dogma
galaxiex's Avatar
Edmonton,Canada Eh
Joined Jun 2007
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Cherokee, Thanks VERY much for sharing that info.

Sorry you had such a fight with it, but you have surely saved other folks some grief.
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 08:32 PM
KB3VOJ
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USA
Joined Sep 2007
2,591 Posts
Yea, I certainly hope so. This was one of those problems that just consumes you. I kept going to bed each night thinking about it and then trying something else the next day. Nobody ever seemed to point out an issue with powering the OSD off the current sensor, probably because you can get the video to a pretty good level, just not great. You can see at about 39 seconds I max the throttle at 16Amps with absolutely no effect on the video. I also turned off the disable text borders during the video to show that I still have to add in the resistance to get rid of the ghosting. I never knew you could get any better than I had until I kept seeing pristine video from others online on 2.4gHz as well and then I finally realized that my video looked pretty crappy compared to their pristine videos. The Vimeo upload really hides a bit of the camera noise, which is still in the video, but it is just a very little bit almost at the pixel level. A better camera, would probably even knock that out. Thats what this group is all about, helping one another. Now I have to go back and re-wire my buddies Radian Pro that I set up knowing what I know now. The best news is I have a brand new Grim Reaper that I will be wiring up in the next week or so and I now only have to do it the right way once. The bad news is that I had to hijack my Hextronic BEC from that project and now need to wait for a Hobby city order to come in.
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 08:36 PM
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mark hitchman's Avatar
New Zealand
Joined Sep 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherokee180c View Post
Hey guys, I am back from getting lost deep in electronic troubleshooting land. After a week of trying just about everything, I finally WHIPPED my video interference problem!!!!! Here is a video describing the issue and solution:
Hi cherokee180c,

Did you have the LC filter in the current sensor wiring before anything came off these wires and the filtering did not work?

Mark
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 08:50 PM
KB3VOJ
cherokee180c's Avatar
USA
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At the beginning I actully had 2 LC filters in the system. One on the 12V to the camera and one on the 5V line from the switching BEC to the VTx. The OSD was never powered after the LC filter, because I simply hooked it up as indicated in the manual by using the current sensor with the jumper on the OSD power pin instead of a separate 12V run. Now, everything except the BEC (which just powers the Dragon Link and ESC) goes through the DPCAV LC filter and then out to the Camera/and new Linear 5V regulator that I made to feed my 5V VTx and finally the OSD. I only have the one main DPCAV LC filter now.
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 09:15 PM
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New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherokee180c View Post
At the beginning I actully had 2 LC filters in the system. One on the 12V to the camera and one on the 5V line from the switching BEC to the VTx. The OSD was never powered after the LC filter, because I simply hooked it up as indicated in the manual by using the current sensor with the jumper on the OSD power pin instead of a separate 12V run. Now, everything except the BEC (which just powers the Dragon Link and ESC) goes through the DPCAV LC filter and then out to the Camera/and new Linear 5V regulator that I made to feed my 5V VTx and finally the OSD. I only have the one main DPCAV LC filter now.
Oh ok, I think I am doing it similar to you, sort of, I come out of the current sensor to the LC then to everything 12v and my ESC powers servos and DL through the throttle channel on the DOSD+
Thanks for the info.

Mark
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 09:24 PM
KB3VOJ
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USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark hitchman View Post
Oh ok, I think I am doing it similar to you, sort of, I come out of the current sensor to the LC then to everything 12v and my ESC powers servos and DL through the throttle channel on the DOSD+
Thanks for the info.

Mark
I am not using the BEC in the ESC at all, as I have a separate BEC and have the red wire pulled from the ESC. The key here though is to NOT power the DOSD+V2 using the current sensor, but to run a separate 12V line directly from the same place you power the camera and VTx. Remember that the BEC in either the ESC or separate does not power the DOSD+V2, it only powers the servo block on the DOSD+V2. Power to the DOSD+V2 has to either come from a separate 12V wires (highly recommended now!!!) or by using the jumper on the power pin block to use the power from the current sensor (No longer recommended from my experience).

Oh yea, one last thing. I had a ton of ferrite core toroids on everything before trying to fix this issue and now I only have one on the GPS, one on the BEC power line right before my DL and one on the camera. I could probably remove the camera one, but it was on the wire from before so I never removed it. I had two more at least before I rewired everything.
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 09:58 PM
Registered User
Illinois, USA
Joined Aug 2009
968 Posts
cherokee180c,
So are you using the current sensor at all. I take it you can use the current sensor to monitor your battery, and power the DOSD via a second source by removing the jumper.
Which pins on the DOSD board are used, and where is the jumper?
Thanks
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 10:08 PM
KB3VOJ
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USA
Joined Sep 2007
2,591 Posts
http://www.dragonlabs.net/_media/sit...anual_rev2.pdf

Page 11 Item 4 shows the power connections. J1/Batt (inside and middle pin) is where you would jumper to use the current sensor power. Just remove the jumper and run your own 12V to ground/Batt (oustside/middle pin) on the power pin to power and yes you still leave the current sensor connected to its block. As you can see in my video I ran the motor upto 16Amps with the current sensor hooked up with separate 12V power to the power block. Basicaly just don't power up using the jumper and make sure you pull your 12V from the exact same spot you pull the 12V for your camera and VTx. In my case my VTx is 5V, so I pull 12V to go to the linear regulator that feeds the Vtx.
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 10:51 PM
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New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherokee180c View Post
http://www.dragonlabs.net/_media/sit...anual_rev2.pdf

Page 11 Item 4 shows the power connections. J1/Batt (inside and middle pin) is where you would jumper to use the current sensor power. Just remove the jumper and run your own 12V to ground/Batt (oustside/middle pin) on the power pin to power and yes you still leave the current sensor connected to its block. As you can see in my video I ran the motor upto 16Amps with the current sensor hooked up with separate 12V power to the power block. Basicaly just don't power up using the jumper and make sure you pull your 12V from the exact same spot you pull the 12V for your camera and VTx. In my case my VTx is 5V, so I pull 12V to go to the linear regulator that feeds the Vtx.
To save the hassle why don't you use the power from the current sensor after the LC filter where it splits off to the vtx and camera, you can use the jumper on the OSD then. I don't know if running extra wires to the OSD is a good thing, best to keep it simple in my opinion.

Mark
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Old Jan 24, 2011, 12:12 AM
O <- this a ground loop
Japan
Joined Nov 2010
514 Posts
Any of you ever hook up your (Futaba 10C) trainer port PPM output directly to the DOSD PPM in for testing/sim purposes?

Logically it should be a simple hook up but I'd like to hear why not to do it before I fry anything

Ren
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Old Jan 24, 2011, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devfor View Post
Any of you ever hook up your (Futaba 10C) trainer port PPM output directly to the DOSD PPM in for testing/sim purposes?

Logically it should be a simple hook up but I'd like to hear why not to do it before I fry anything

Ren
In the early days a few of us did this before we received ppm encoders and receivers with ppm output but I don't recall anyone with a 10c doing it. I would not think it would cause issues although as I do not have a 10c I can only guess.

Mark
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Old Jan 24, 2011, 06:16 AM
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Joined Dec 2007
4,133 Posts
Nice 1 cherokee180c, i never thought about that, all my OSD`s power off the current sensor without issue so just didnt think twice about it
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Old Jan 24, 2011, 08:04 AM
Just clumsy. Oh, forgetful too
MikeTheCrash's Avatar
undefined
Joined Jun 2008
3,257 Posts
thanks Cherokee180c, that's excellent info!
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