Yes I think you need to remove and bridge some of the resistors. it's in this thread or on the Tsebi forum somewhere. This is what we did before Dragon Labs made their own.

Originally Posted by Mike Freas

Figured this was better than just a picture. I did get it working via secondary power after the video ended.

Concerned that something is still wrong with the board. Even if the CS is bad I'm getting voltage at the connector.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4YgoZ0xnDk

Last night I used a multimeter to confirm there is continuity between the positive input pin of the current sensor and the J1 pin of the aux power. I also tested the current sensor for voltage at the servo connector end and I get nothing. I tested it at the solder joints for the servo lead and get no voltage either yet I get voltage at the deans connectors.

If I have continunity from the positive and negative between the CS input and the aux power input and the board works fine with 12v to the aux input then the CS has to be bad right?

Would it be possible then to make a connector to try and test the CS input of the board feeding power to the 3rd pin and ground on the outside (skipping the 2nd and 4th pin)?

I went ahead and ordered a replacement CS from Hobbywireless (RMRC is out) and will continue the setup tonight.

I have to remind myself this is fun sometimes.

Originally Posted by MikeTheCrash

Yes I think you need to remove and bridge some of the resistors. it's in this thread or on the Tsebi forum somewhere. This is what we did before Dragon Labs made their own.

found the post but not worth doing it , now have to figure out how to wire everything

Originally Posted by skellator

found the post but not worth doing it , now have to figure out how to wire everything

you dont have to remove the bridge... all that does is drop the V down to 0-3.3v if you power the board off the main power rather than the Current sensor you can simply calibrate the DOSD to the current sensors voltage.

I have a 4S setup that I use this on and it works great!

Originally Posted by MikeTheCrash

great project I hope it works out! The problems we have with drift on stuff are never caused on the bench but in flight, where the IMU can't tell the difference between a gentle banked turn and a climb as both increase the force on the Y sensor. Daniel Wee re-wrote the firmware that comes with the original IMU from sparkfun to and definitely improved it and also introduced a hard calibration routine so that the IMU would have a better chance of restoring itself to 0.

I hope you can make it work in the air, 'cos I LOVE stuff that's cheap and works well!!!!

Hi Mike, thanks a lot!

Will try it out in the air, once the plane is ready, but even if it has miserable drift, it is cheap hardware, DIYers can continue to work on... For example one might throw away the MultiWii part and port Daniel Wees firmware adaptations over and have a sub 20$ IMU .

Have a great weekend, y´all!
Peter

Edit: Just added schems and inital code to the project page: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...38&postcount=7

Originally Posted by chanyote66

you dont have to remove the bridge... all that does is drop the V down to 0-3.3v if you power the board off the main power rather than the Current sensor you can simply calibrate the DOSD to the current sensors voltage.

I have a 4S setup that I use this on and it works great!

that great! I powering my DOSD from 2nd pack not from current sensors, if I can use it would safe me some trouble soldering the DOSD+ current sensor

Originally Posted by skellator

that great! I powering my DOSD from 2nd pack not from current sensors, if I can use it would safe me some trouble soldering the DOSD+ current sensor

you just need a multimeter to calibrate the Voltage...

Originally Posted by skellator

that great! I powering my DOSD from 2nd pack not from current sensors, if I can use it would safe me some trouble soldering the DOSD+ current sensor

So you are not using the current sensor? Looking for some help with my issues getting power to the board via the CS. I belive my CS is bad.

To test to make sure my board is good (the best I can right now) can I build a connector and feed ground and 12v (first and third pin on the CS input) to verify my board will power via this input?

Currently (no pun intended) my CS, with the J1 jumper, does not power my OSD. I verified I am NOT getting power to the CS servo connector to the board AND I have continuity between the J1 pin and the 12v pin on the CS input.

Originally Posted by Mike Freas

So you are not using the current sensor? Looking for some help with my issues getting power to the board via the CS. I belive my CS is bad.

To test to make sure my board is good (the best I can right now) can I build a connector and feed ground and 12v (first and third pin on the CS input) to verify my board will power via this input?

Currently (no pun intended) my CS, with the J1 jumper, does not power my OSD. I verified I am NOT getting power to the CS servo connector to the board AND I have continuity between the J1 pin and the 12v pin on the CS input.

yes, you could use a 12v power source to the GNC and V+ of the CS connection... I would start with a basic connection to the main power pins. If that does not power it then you have bigger problems.

If the power works by connecting to the CS port and with the jumper on, then check the V+ on the current sensor, it could be connected wrong.

How is your CS now? can you post a pic? is Ground on the outside of the board... farthest from the Servo cable?

Chris

Originally Posted by chanyote66

yes, you could use a 12v power source to the GNC and V+ of the CS connection... I would start with a basic connection to the main power pins. If that does not power it then you have bigger problems.

If the power works by connecting to the CS port and with the jumper on, then check the V+ on the current sensor, it could be connected wrong.

How is your CS now? can you post a pic? is Ground on the outside of the board... farthest from the Servo cable?

Chris

Ground is on the outside of the CS. I should stil be seeing 12v at the red servo connector but I am not.

Full disclosure here. During my trouble shooting of this issue I had a battery connected to the input of the CS and wanted to try and power the OSD via the aux power input so I connected a harness I made to the ESC side of the CS. I assumed the ESC plug simple has 12v out but I seemed to have let the magic smoke out of the CS.

Originally Posted by Mike Freas

Ground is on the outside of the CS. I should stil be seeing 12v at the red servo connector but I am not.

Full disclosure here. During my trouble shooting of this issue I had a battery connected to the input of the CS and wanted to try and power the OSD via the aux power input so I connected a harness I made to the ESC side of the CS. I assumed the ESC plug simple has 12v out but I seemed to have let the magic smoke out of the CS.

your CS is soldered backwards - the GND should be black, voltage red and current monitor white wires.

ya, the V+ line is probably toast if it smoked... I had one that was in a crash it didnt work after so they are somewhat sensitive...

If you have a multi meter, you can check the wires... First check the battery plug, then the ground and V+ at the servo wire, then the actual servo plug end... if thats all good then something else is wrong.

Originally Posted by MikeTheCrash

your CS is soldered backwards - the GND should be black, voltage red and current monitor white wires.

Didnt even notice that at first

Originally Posted by MikeTheCrash

your CS is soldered backwards - the GND should be black, voltage red and current monitor white wires.

The deans or the output to the board? The way I see it you can only solder the deans one way. If it's the output wires then it's the guy I bought it from.

I ordered a new CS last night. If it is backwards does that mean I could have FUBAR my OSD? It still works powering via the aux input.

Originally Posted by chanyote66

you just need a multimeter to calibrate the Voltage...

will be looking into the manual how to calibrate it, seem need quite some effort to get it right

Originally Posted by Mike Freas

The deans or the output to the board? The way I see it you can only solder the deans one way. If it's the output wires then it's the guy I bought it from.

I ordered a new CS last night. If it is backwards does that mean I could have FUBAR my OSD? It still works powering via the aux input.

the wires going onto the CS board are soldered the wrong way around! If you look at the legend on the board you will see labels GND and V2.

Where did you get the CS or did you resolder it

If DOSD is still working then perhaps you may have burnt the track between J1 and the current sensor but that will be easy to bypass - or if powering from the power pins you don't need it anyway. I think you said you had continuity between these points anyway? DOSD is pretty robust, and I don't see why running current backwards throuigh the CS could have damaged it. Hopefully all is well!