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Old Jan 07, 2013, 10:42 PM
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Mar 2010
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Originally Posted by 2MacGyver View Post
For DLOSD current sensor, it appears from perusing the 183-page user manual (which is way too long for an instruction manual!) that the 2 dean's ultra pieces need to be soldered onto the current sensor in the indicated places. The DLOSD manual does not indicate to do this, however, the picture on page 21 of the user manual appears to show soldered deans ultra connectors. Is this correct?

Second question is where the current sensor attaches to the DLOSD board. From the attached pic, do I plug the 3-pin plug into isense, v2, 3v3?
plug it into G, isense, V2, do not connect anything to the 3.3, in fact, try to put some heat shrink on that pin to avoid accidental connections.

as for Q1, use deans if you want, or another connector of your choice. I solder wires to the current sensor board myself, not the connectors, that way Im not grabbing and tugging on the CS when I change batteries, I only pull on a plug and wires. Personal choice.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 10:43 PM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
Vantasstic's Avatar
Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 2003
18,614 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2MacGyver View Post
For DLOSD current sensor, it appears from perusing the 183-page user manual (which is way too long for an instruction manual!) that the 2 dean's ultra pieces need to be soldered onto the current sensor in the indicated places. The DLOSD manual does not indicate to do this, however, the picture on page 21 of the user manual appears to show soldered deans ultra connectors. Is this correct?

Second question is where the current sensor attaches to the DLOSD board. From the attached pic, do I plug the 3-pin plug into isense, v2, 3v3?
You need to attach whatever connectors you use to the current sensor. You can either direct connect them or length of wire attached to the current sensor and the connectors on the ends of the wires. Just make sure you get them on right. The battery connector has to go on the proper end. If you reverse the connectors you'll end up with no amp reading on the display. It doesn't seem to hurt anything though. Just DON'T mix up the + and - connections. That may hurt something.

DO NOT attach anything from the current sensor to the 3v3 pin. If you do...well, you'll be buying another DOSD. I suggest putting a small piece of heat shrink on that pin to prevent accidental connection to it. The 3-wire lead from the current sensor will attach to the other pins. The black wire to the GND pin (edge most pin, red wire to the V2, and the white wire to the ISense pin.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 11:00 PM
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United States, VT
Joined Apr 2012
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Thanks guys, I'll heatshrink the 3.3 pin.

If I wanted to run two lipos together, and still use the DLOSD current sensor for both, how would that be done? Currently, I have a deans ultra pigtail soldered to the board. There is a place for another battery connection, and I could solder on a second pigtail there. However, the second battery would then not be connected to the current sensor. Unless there is a way to connect both lipos in a series/parallel and feed both of them through the current sensor?
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 11:05 PM
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Mar 2010
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Originally Posted by 2MacGyver View Post
Thanks guys, I'll heatshrink the 3.3 pin.

If I wanted to run two lipos together, and still use the DLOSD current sensor for both, how would that be done? Currently, I have a deans ultra pigtail soldered to the board. There is a place for another battery connection, and I could solder on a second pigtail there. However, the second battery would then not be connected to the current sensor. Unless there is a way to connect both lipos in a series/parallel and feed both of them through the current sensor?

I use these on the batteries, then to the CS

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...llel_1pc_.html

or if you must use deans, then check these out - http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_t...at=0&_from=R40
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Last edited by Haych; Jan 07, 2013 at 11:11 PM. Reason: added ebay link
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 11:13 PM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
Vantasstic's Avatar
Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 2003
18,614 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2MacGyver View Post
Thanks guys, I'll heatshrink the 3.3 pin.

If I wanted to run two lipos together, and still use the DLOSD current sensor for both, how would that be done? Currently, I have a deans ultra pigtail soldered to the board. There is a place for another battery connection, and I could solder on a second pigtail there. However, the second battery would then not be connected to the current sensor. Unless there is a way to connect both lipos in a series/parallel and feed both of them through the current sensor?
You connect the batteries, (parallel or serial) via adapters before the current sensor. The CS sees the 'total' voltage for display.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 11:31 PM
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United States, VT
Joined Apr 2012
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Very good idea. I found on Amazon cables to connects deans ultra in parallel and series. As a non-electrician, I "think" I want the parallel one (which doubles the current and duration of use) and not series (which doubles the voltage). Or does it not matter?
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 12:03 AM
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
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Originally Posted by 2MacGyver View Post
Very good idea. I found on Amazon cables to connects deans ultra in parallel and series. As a non-electrician, I "think" I want the parallel one (which doubles the current and duration of use) and not series (which doubles the voltage). Or does it not matter?
you are correct. its safer to use parallel, which increases capacity, or more fuel in the tank in other words.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 03:37 AM
um.. yeah, I can make that fly
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United Kingdom, Milton Keynes
Joined Jun 2007
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Indeedy. Example. You have two 3s 2000Mah cells. You connect them in parallel (positive to positive, negative to negative) and you end up with a 3S 4000Mah cell. Written down as 1s2p. In series (one positive to the other cells negative) you'll end up with a 6s 2000Mah cell. Written down as 2s1p. In terms of watts it doesn't make a difference. But you would need to change your motor, ESC & prop combination if changing from 3S to 6S.

CJ
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 03:44 AM
Dixie Normious
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Can A da....Ehh!!
Joined May 2010
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cheers van! I have no mixing on the radio, just norm ail and elev. no when the servo test the right elevon goes up.

So having this "not correct" the main cause of the drastic dives i have seen? When people are testing there AP/RTH? I was watching a video sometime ago and when the guy turn on his RTH, the plane was just banking the wrong direction(longest way turn) he brought her down, reversed it and she then took the closest route when banking towards"home".

But then i see people turn there AP on and the bloody thing goes into a dive and hits the ground!!
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 03:54 AM
Just clumsy. Oh, forgetful too
MikeTheCrash's Avatar
undefined
Joined Jun 2008
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Originally Posted by chanyote66 View Post
:/
DOSDv2 is still out of stock at RMRC...
Carlos' cases are still not for sale at RMRC...
My planes are sitting here brainless...
Im surrounded by zombie planes AAAHHH!!!

Chris
Bah! you might just have to shop at DL.eu!!!
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 03:59 AM
Dixie Normious
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2MacGyver View Post
Thanks guys, I'll heatshrink the 3.3 pin.

If I wanted to run two lipos together, and still use the DLOSD current sensor for both, how would that be done? Currently, I have a deans ultra pigtail soldered to the board. There is a place for another battery connection, and I could solder on a second pigtail there. However, the second battery would then not be connected to the current sensor. Unless there is a way to connect both lipos in a series/parallel and feed both of them through the current sensor?
Heres what i did to get 3x 3s2200 mah in parallel so i have a total of 6600mah in theory you could put as many as you want.
Soldering a 3 battery harness (16 min 9 sec)


attached is the pins i heat shrinked that are not in use on mine, the 3v3 on the CS, the 2 not used on the serial, and the 1 on the gps port. you can also cover the G and 3.3v on the rssi pins as well if not in use.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 11:40 PM
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United States, VT
Joined Apr 2012
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When mounting the DOSD on your frame, what is the best way? I've read about and found a protective case that is for sale, however in the absence of that, how does one keep the DOSD board securely mounted without damaging it?
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 12:00 AM
Mobius Cables... I got em'
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United States, TN, Oak Ridge
Joined Dec 2011
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Originally Posted by 2MacGyver View Post
When mounting the DOSD on your frame, what is the best way? I've read about and found a protective case that is for sale, however in the absence of that, how does one keep the DOSD board securely mounted without damaging it?
I have used foam to hold it in place but I would recommend the case... after crashing and destroying two Im buying cases for all of mine before I have to buy more
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 12:19 AM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
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Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2MacGyver View Post
When mounting the DOSD on your frame, what is the best way? I've read about and found a protective case that is for sale, however in the absence of that, how does one keep the DOSD board securely mounted without damaging it?
As a minimum, put it in heat shrink. Then you can use velcro to secure it to your plane. I wouldn't recommend using velcro, double-sided tape, etc directly to the board. People have pulled off components when trying to remove the sticky stuff from the board later on.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 01:37 AM
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India, Karnataka, Bengaluru
Joined May 2011
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I have one weird question. If you have throttle mode set such that AP controls throttle. And if you put the plane on ground and hit AP with some amount of ground speed will AP try to takeoff the plane?
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