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Old Jun 03, 2010, 11:14 AM
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Guys,

If you are trying to use the TMP102 - could you give version 8.5 a try and report back here? Thanks.

Daniel
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Old Jun 03, 2010, 04:15 PM
When in doubt, throttle out...
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TMP102 is now confirmed working! Well done Daniel.

:-)
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Old Jun 03, 2010, 08:09 PM
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Cralis,
My video looked a lot like yours. One of my cameras responded well to the 220 ohm resistor mentioned in the second post here as Daniel said, while the other need the resistor and the capacitor.
My video was still pretty bad so I did the mod mentioned on the last post here and it seems to have improved a good bit, though it's raining and I haven't had a chance to test it properly.
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Old Jun 03, 2010, 08:37 PM
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Thanks Wadsworth! I saw those posts on Tsebi, and .. there is not a chance in the world that I won't end up breaking my OSD. I have a bit of a shake... and I've looked at the board, and where I have to work, and... it will die.

Pity there wasn't a fix that could be applied to the camera wire. Something that could maybe be added to maybe the +ve and gnd wires? That's something I could have attempted.
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Old Jun 03, 2010, 09:12 PM
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Cralis,

The one he's talking about doesn't involve board surgery. You can try three things:-

1. put a 75ohm resistor in series with the video in wire from the camera.

OR

2. put a 220ohm resistor across video in and ground

3. You could also try putting the large electrolytic capacitor in series with the video in wire from the camera. This one you can do in conjunction with 1 or 2.

All of the above only involves the camera wires.

Daniel
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Old Jun 04, 2010, 02:52 PM
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DODOLAND
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HI everyone,
Cralis,
Try the capacitor in series,It works.I had the same ploblem with my Dx201 Cam.I have used a 470uf electroliticCapacitor.

cheers,
Anthony.

Ps. Still have not been able to try the RTH and other tweaking on my plane.The weather sucks right now ,50 km wind and rain.It has been like that for about 2 weeks.Hope this week end will be find.
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Old Jun 04, 2010, 03:49 PM
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Thanks Anthony - could you explain to a non-electronics chaps what 'Try the capacitor in series' means?
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Old Jun 04, 2010, 06:13 PM
When in doubt, throttle out...
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Its C1 in the image below.





Just hack into the camera video line & fit a capacitor inline - this mod also worked for me.

Good Luck.

Martin
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Old Jun 04, 2010, 10:32 PM
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An alternative to that would be to just have a 75ohm resistor in series with the capacitor, and lose the 220ohm resistor. That should also work.

Daniel
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Old Jun 05, 2010, 02:09 AM
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Thanks for all the help guys. I really don't know what you mean though... Can you maybe draw a picture... 3 wires... Pos. Neg and Sig... and then draw where I attach the goodies?
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Old Jun 05, 2010, 04:23 AM
When in doubt, throttle out...
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Cralis,

Cut the Sig wire & either add the capacitor or resistor or both.
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Old Jun 05, 2010, 12:12 PM
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Guys,

If you have firmware 8.6 or 8.7, please don't use those. Use 8.8 or 8.5. I made a mistake and in my rush, I forgot to check it before posting it. Fortunately, it won't affect your ability to update the firmware again. Sorry for the inconvenience.

On another note - I'm going to be away for two weeks so if you have stuff you need me to address, you may have to wait (depending on whether I can get Internet access where I'm going and if I have the time and facility).

Cralis,

Given your unfamiliarity with electronics, it might be easier to get a friend to do it for you. Although this is considered a fairly simple modification, I know it can be exceptionally daunting when you're doing it for the first time. In fact, many of the things we take for granted - such as soldering, stripping wires, recognizing components, and so on - aren't always easy for someone from a non-engineering background. In view of that, it may be better to get someone who can help out.

Daniel
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Old Jun 05, 2010, 12:52 PM
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Thanks Daniel.

Will do.

On another note, can someone assist me please with regards getting the mAh value to read correctly. And, probably my voltage readings.

I am using a power sensor, but can't get the current value to move from 0.0! Even when I throttle up, it's 0.0 amps. My voltage seems to move around a bit, and seem nearly right. But my amps, and therefore, mAh reading os wrong. I found a 'current offset', which was 0.0. I changed that to 0.4 (As that is what I am pulling with no throttle - because that's what my electrics, including video gear, uses), but this had no effect. Current still reads 0, and when I throttle up, same story.

I guess my first question is - if I am using a current sensor, should I turn 'Voltage reading' OFF? (DISPV1) I do that, and then I don't see two V readings. I see one. Is that right?

Then, I have V1CUT and V2CUT. Which one related to the sensor power input? I guess the answer to that would match V1MULT/V2MULT? And then, I assume that MAHMULT refers to the sensor (as powering off the other power pins can't read current?).

Can someone help me get the current right?

Then - I was hoping to do a flight tomorrow, and display RSSI, but for that, I need to solder a pin onto my Thomas LRS Rx board. Is there a way to use RTH without using RSSI?
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Old Jun 05, 2010, 01:13 PM
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Cralis,

Do not change current offset from 0.0 for your current sensor type. Also related to the current sensor - can you check that the following resistor has been removed:-

http://forum.tsebi.com/download/file.php?id=709

Secondly, make sure your Current multiplier setting is around the default value (around 32.0 IIRC) for a start. For actual calibration info, see the following thread:-

http://forum.tsebi.com/viewtopic.php...=78&p=836#p836

The OSD can be powered from several sources. When you jumper J1, however, you connect the V2 voltage to the V1 (normal power input) and thus the same voltage is indicated twice. In this case, you can turn one or the other off in the display options. For people who power their OSD separately, the two voltages will show different readings representing the different power sources. For more info, see the second post here:-

http://forum.tsebi.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=63

V1CUTOFF is the warning voltage level for the V1 (main power input). V2CUTOFF is the warning voltage level for the battery attached to the current sensor. Do not change VMULT1 or VMULT2 before reading how calibration works. Likewise for MAHMULT. The link for calibration is posted a few paragraphs above here.

RTH does not require RSSI, but I would suggest that you not be in a hurry to get everything going. Baby steps. Get one thing working at a time.

Daniel
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Old Jun 05, 2010, 01:24 PM
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Thanks Daniel.
Get some sleep! Its 03h19 here... damn baby keeps waking me!

I can confirm that resistor has been removed.

I will set the current multiplier to default. I don't think I have changed it though, but will check.

As for V1 and V2 showing the same thing - they're not though... One maybe shows 12.67, while the other shows 12.51 or something. I'll check the settings to see that they're both set to the same values though.

I have a jumper on, so I should be setting V1CUTOFF then, to what ever value I feel I want to be warned about, right?

As for the RTH, I just wanted some security if I screw up my range a bit tomorrow. Would be nice to know that it would at least try help me. I have connected my rudder and elevator to the PPM1 and 2, and my PPMIn is all connected. With this, I can move my surfaces from my controller - so something is right. On the ground, though, I turned off my TX, and then motor went into failsafe (25% throttle) as expected - but I hoped to see something on the screen to indicate RTH. But, nothing. Plane was right next to my Home Location, and at 0 meters altitude, so I'm guessing it knows it's home...
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