Onboard video of cliff sloping 48" Starfire
Edit: I accidently put this on the wrong thread and can't delete it.
This video is of the 48" standard airfoil Starfire, not the 60".
This is from a keyring spy cam on board, set to 20FPS.
Wind was about 12knots on the water at about 10-20 degrees off centre for the cliff, but still pretty good. Cliff is 250ft.
You will hear a few burst when I fire up the motor, the rest is gliding.
Will try 25FPS next time, see if I get get a little smoother picture, if the memory card can cope.
yes . . .dont fall off your chairs
went to school to learn a new airplane for a few months and am now back "at home" on a . . . . "regular schedule". Only 8 days off this month so .. . .. .little by little we are chipping away at the stone!
A little stand by duty last month and this month has made life . . ohhh so wonderrrrffffuuuuulllll!
I spent the last two days cleaning two months worth of cra... off my hobby desk and spooled up the tools to check everything out.
Got a little bit of hobby work done on my day off.
I will try to get to the magnatude of requests for information as I sit at the airport over the next two weeks!
Bear with me . I will get to you in turn and will try to consolidate the posts as much as possible here rather than directly by PM so that all can take advantage of the info.
There are some new pics that I worked on tonight . . basically put all the past stuff out of my head and started a fresh as I had to brain dumped everyting except the new deluge I had to absorb at work...
now it is time to start the fun!
let me tell you
two feet of hobby, garden and misc drud piles up very fast over time!
I spent all of my few days off since I got back cleaning and fixing all the broken stuff that my wife and kids have piled up while I was away
It is good to me needed!
Here is a mied bunch of nuts for you all to peruse!
I have gone and rethought much of what I was deliberating before in order to try to make as solid a build as possible.
The PW51 airfoil is thin, real thin. I think the harder white foam may end up being a better fit with the elevons and set up for the mid due to the abuse the prop wash is going to do on the trailing edge. I plan on setting a piece of 3/8 by .007 Dave Brown CF tape the length of the slot to give it some meat and think this should do the trick but we will see.
but . . . . . . .
here we go
I have taken the sheet of 6mm (1/4") ply and drawn out the motor mounting flange as well as the alignment/mounting holes (6). I will face them with 3mm blind mounting nuts (4-40 will work too). I made sure I have everything drawn out on the plate to assist with the alignment later on.
I cut the plate with my scroll saw then pre drilled the moutning holes in the press.
Once the whole thing is cut out, I have slid it up and down with the battery in roughly the place I want it to try to get it as close to the recommended CG as possible.
the goal is also to put the motor over the CG with the heavy duty center spar directly under the aft of the motor plate to spread the load out. I want to have a tight fit between the two with the surface area of the plate glued to the epp (with gorilla glue) as the primay means of holding it to the wing.
The motor I chose is a monster for this sized plane so more area is better!
I have also picked up a 28mm motor that should be a good sport option with a smaller prop . . .I picked it up to give it a try, I am expecting little but setting the plate for whatever I decide to use later.
I have used a 2.5" round router bit to clear the area under the outrunner to give it some space as the mount is not perfectly high enough for this motor.
I have set both motors in the mount to get an idea is they both fit without any monkeying later!
spars laid out on the epp to get an idea of placement with the battery and plate there for reference.
moved all around to see if it all works as well as the servos to make sure that they will also sit in enough epp to be burried in the foam . . .we dont want anything hanging out where it isnt suppose to be.
I laid the front spars out to ensure that they clear the LE throughout as well as sit relatively in the center of the tip after the elevons were marked to stabilize it a bit. I may try to move the more foreward later if I have the room but this is a great place ot start.
last but not least
finally measured out the elevons . . . 2" deep from the TE with the hinge line going on the top hence the line on the top.
I left about 1/4" between the seam and the elevon for durability and also made them flush with the seam rather than square .. . more presonall preference than anything . ..
Ah . . .and one last overhead of the whole thing with the spacing
In reference to PM . . .
the plan with the plate is to cut into the center of the airfoil under the plate with a very sharp long blade so that the cut rides ON the top of the main spar.
I will take out the plug then trim it to fit the top of the wing once the plate is glued in and will cut out enough for the motor to clear . . should seal all back up and be nice and strong when it is done.
servo and spar pics
I have had these on my camera for two weeks waiting for an opportunity to upload.
I have been working on the 60 for the last two weeks . . .15 minutes here, 20 minutes there!
It is amazing how little time I have in spite of being back to my "old schedule" --- according to my boss!
so here is what you are looking at
Before I left for school, I joined the panels on the L and R side to make two pieces.
I joined the beds on the top and bottom panels to make a set of R and L core beds . . .
With that I started laying out the elevons, radio, spar position and battery based on the CG that Jeff has provided.
With the 4S pack I plan on using, I should be dead on the money with my current plan.
I have cut out the elevons and the slot to provide reflex. I plan on backing the hinge with a supper light drywall tape that I picked up at home depot. They are cut down to 1/32 shy of the underside of the wing and the hinge is widened to 3/8 at the top, this provides 3/8" up and 1/2" down.
There are two dilemas that I have been working through>
1) EPP elevons are very stretchy in spite of my bolstering. I am going to recess a piece of 1/64 ply on the top and bottom to provide some mounting surface to the horn as well as spread out the torsional load of the control and hopefully bias out some of the flexing at the tip.
2) The "mid motor" concept with the big ole motor I am planning to use presents a little issue with the trailing edge behind the prop. As I have it right now, there is only 1/2" of material between the prop box I am planning on cutting.
I picked up a new prop nut that is a little thinner. It will allow me to get little more material there as the epp is just a little too flexible with that much air over it. I will try to get some CF in front of it to help stiffen it up but I really need to move it more foreward.
I have been conteplating just leaving it out and making it just a std. cut out. I know the lines will be changed but . . . . . . . may need it.
One thing I am really amazed at is how light this really is. I know that it will pick up a little beef with the henrys and spray 90 but . . .even with the monster motor it is still pretty light!
I got a new toy and man do it make the job a whole lot easier!
Bought this on a whim a little while ago and it has all the stuff to make this job very easy.
It runs at the perfect temperature to slowly melt the epp at the same speed I can manuever it.
I was absolutly amazed at how well it worked without any modification for this project.
I cut out all servo bays, spar cut out without a hitch
spar work and servo cut out
I have cut out the spars and servo trenches with sucess.
With the spar set up the way it is, there was only one way to get the spars deep enough to make the joint between wing halves work.
I also staggered the depth of the spars between the L and R sides so that they overlap slightly to lock them in.
The bottom spar was cut into the servo bay to keep it far enough back to allow for the clearance of the top spars.
I cut the bottom ear of each servo on the front to provide the clearance. There should be no effect to the operation by running it this way, it will lighten it up a bit
I used this bad boy to make the cut. . .using the 1/8 wide tip, the 6mm spars fit just right, with the second cut, the larger spar was a piece of cake...
this is just too nice to pass up!
motor mount work
I spent the better part of the night meandering around the tail end of this bird trying to figure out a "best way" of mounting the mounting plate I came up with.
Reality is that there are only a few that really work and only a few that fit based on the space and CG considerations.
In one way I cant wait to go back to traditional configuration airplanes that ya just lob some heavier wood in the nose or tail to make it work . . . wings aint like that!
So . . .after three Starr Brewing Dark Starr Brew I was ready to make the move.
It isnt rocket science when you come down to it, it is just trying to really figure out the first time out of the gate . . . or at least pretty close!
So the placement of the battery went first, then the lip was spaced out. The radio gear was laid out and adjusted then the motor mount was roughed in. After that, we were ready to start manipulating the cut out for the prop.
I managed to give myself a good solid 2" from the base of the TE with the set up the way it came out.
With that I should be in a good position to beef it up.
I used the harbour freight tool to burn the EPP out to make the cuts.
I also used a full blade from a utility knife to cut the pieces loose after the fact.
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