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Old Feb 18, 2013, 02:56 PM
Yea, I fly dusty planes..
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United States, LA, Angie
Joined Apr 2009
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I have a servo reverser made by MPI that is compatible with my DSMX system. Have many flights on it. Only "problem" I had with my F-Cub was that the aileron control rod was exactly at the end of the connector if not a wee bit short. Locktited the set screws (used two) and then put some CA in the hole to seal it all up.Glad you got your elevator problem sorted out. Glad you like the struts, they are a bolt on option. Dave/zeezee
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 04:33 PM
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United States, FL, West Melbourne
Joined May 2011
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Originally Posted by northriver21 View Post
Hey guys,

First post in this thread..... I ordered a Fun Cub RR recently and my goal was to read this entire thread before subscribing with my first question.

Well I made it to page 372 when the FC showed up at my door. I let it sit in the box for a few days because I am waiting for a turnigy servo reducer/reverser and a few other parts that I read about here in this thread. I still plan to read the entire thread but I already need some advice and I hope my issue has not already been covered.

Today I caved and figured I could at least start putting it together and dry fitting the electronics when I ran into a few glitches in the RR version.

I chose to put a deans connector on the ESC so I began to unplug the ESC from the motor wires so I could solder on the deans connecter. The white wire in the ESC just pulled right off in my hand.

I called multiplex and they offered to send me a new one. While I am waiting for that and since I already had the soldering iron out, I decided to try and repair it. I got it back together but I did not have a large enough heat shrink tube to replace it so I just tucked it all together and sheilded the connections with electrical tape..... Is that OK?

On to the next glitch. got it all put together and hooked up the control arms and they sure didnt leave much extra rod, as the control rod just barely went throught the linkage and barely had enough for the grub screw to bite. After a few runs through the controls the rods slipped out so I put them back in a little tighter this time.

The next issue, and this is the reason for my first post, is I cannot get the elevator to move in the right direction. Pull back on the stick and the elevator goes down (nose down airplane). I tried reversing the servo wire in the RX port but that resulted in no movement at all. Next I tried reversing the direction on the RX but it still moves exactly the same.

A little about my set up. I am trying to use the Spektrum DX5e until I can upgrade my radio. I know this is not the ideal setup but its what I have. I am going to try and set up flaps on the gear channel with 30-40 degree throws mechanically and use the turnigy unit to slow and reverse the flaps. If this does not work I will just fly no flaps in the meantime.

Any feedback you could provide on my elevator problem or my radio setup would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Cheap free flap solution that works

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...ostcount=13117

Post 13117
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 05:06 PM
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United States, IL, Joliet
Joined Jun 2009
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If you need to put a small screw into foam you can cut a small 1/4 inch piece of the inner part of a nirod .Drill a hole about a 1/4 inch into the foam the same size as the outside of the nirod and a drop a small amount of epoxy in the hole and it wont let it come loose. The nirod already has a tiny hole in the middle of it for you to tighten up your screw into it. This plane is all foam but is screwed together with many screws so i did the same thing to it on every fricken screw and its been 15 years with out a screw comming loose. For those who dont know what ni rod is . http://www.hobby-lobby.com/pushrods_...36399_prd1.htm I cut the small 1/4 pieces from the inner yellow part . joe
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 06:32 PM
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Chilliwack, BC Canada
Joined Mar 2010
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Originally Posted by northriver21 View Post
Gord,
I am using the Spektrum DX5e/AR600 (for now) I plane to upgrade by summer, but as I have already explained the Dr. bills hit my budget and pushed the new radio out of range (pun intended) .

I did read that the tunigy servo reducer/reverser is not compatible with Spektrum.

Before I ordered the unit from HK, I called Horizon and spoke with a product advisor with this very compatibility question. The guy on the phone told me that there were some compataility issues with first generation Spektrum radios but assured me that this was all ironed out and it would be fine to use this unit.

I know that these tech support guys are for the most part knowledgable, but they can't know everything and I have been given information that was not true in the past.

If I'm about to make a huge mistake using this with the newer Spektrum gear please advise.

Thanks
I think the folks you talked with should really be the most up to date resource on this issue. I only mentioned it because this warning has been passed down for quite some time here, and in other threads - for years as a matter of fact. I think you are the first to actually go back to the manufacturer for current information. I notice that that page specifically mentions DSM, but not DSM2 or DSMX. Maybe the later versions (like yours) do not suffer from these problems. If that is the case it would be nice of them to update the page to state that. Did you record your conversation with the folks at Horizon? Might be useful in a court of law if their assurances turn out to be wrong. I would just try it on the ground first and see if it does anything unusual. I certainly can not say that it will not work from any personal experience or knowledge.

I do like the HK unit, if it is the same one I have. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=8863 I have three of them. Three adjustment pots, one controls speed for extension, one controls the speed of retraction and one that controls the reversal of 'channel 3' (really exactly the same as 'channel 1' and 'channel 2' except that it can be reversed).

Hope you get it soon so you can get on with your build.

Gord
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 06:44 PM
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United States, IL, Joliet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordks View Post
I think the folks you talked with should really be the most up to date resource on this issue. I only mentioned it because this warning has been passed down for quite some time here, and in other threads - for years as a matter of fact. I think you are the first to actually go back to the manufacturer for current information. I notice that that page specifically mentions DSM, but not DSM2 or DSMX. Maybe the later versions (like yours) do not suffer from these problems. If that is the case it would be nice of them to update the page to state that. Did you record your conversation with the folks at Horizon? Might be useful in a court of law if their assurances turn out to be wrong. I would just try it on the ground first and see if it does anything unusual. I certainly can not say that it will not work from any personal experience or knowledge.

I do like the HK unit, if it is the same one I have. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=8863 I have three of them. Three adjustment pots, one controls speed for extension, one controls the speed of retraction and one that controls the reversal of 'channel 3' (really exactly the same as 'channel 1' and 'channel 2' except that it can be reversed).

Hope you get it soon so you can get on with your build.

Gord
Thats a good read Gord i have a older DSM 7 channel transmitter, the first they came out with. I have the older full range reciever to put into my cub but i will check the new ones i buy from now on ,thanks joe
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 09:25 PM
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United States, AK, Anchorage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordks View Post
I think the folks you talked with should really be the most up to date resource on this issue. I only mentioned it because this warning has been passed down for quite some time here, and in other threads - for years as a matter of fact. I think you are the first to actually go back to the manufacturer for current information. I notice that that page specifically mentions DSM, but not DSM2 or DSMX. Maybe the later versions (like yours) do not suffer from these problems. If that is the case it would be nice of them to update the page to state that. Did you record your conversation with the folks at Horizon? Might be useful in a court of law if their assurances turn out to be wrong. I would just try it on the ground first and see if it does anything unusual. I certainly can not say that it will not work from any personal experience or knowledge.

I do like the HK unit, if it is the same one I have. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=8863 I have three of them. Three adjustment pots, one controls speed for extension, one controls the speed of retraction and one that controls the reversal of 'channel 3' (really exactly the same as 'channel 1' and 'channel 2' except that it can be reversed).

Hope you get it soon so you can get on with your build.

Gord
Gord,
No I didnt record anything. I plan to throughly range and ground check before sending it up. Yes that is the same Turnigy unit that I ordered... It's only been a week and not shipped yet. First HK order so I guess thats the norm.

Beautiful day in Alaska today! Took a break from the fun cub to do a little ski flying with my old faithful taildragger apprentice...What a blast!

One more quick question on batteries. Would a 3s 2200mah 20C be an alright battery. I have the Multiplex Power Pack 840kv 35 amp esc.

I bought 30C's already but there is a good deal at hobby people on the20C's so thought I'd check with the experts before ordering a few extras.

I plan on scale flying mostly putting around nothing crazy with this plane if that helps.

Thanks
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 10:07 PM
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United States, FL, West Melbourne
Joined May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by northriver21 View Post
One quick question on batteries. Would a 3s 2200mah 20C be an alright battery. I have the Multiplex Power Pack 840kv 35 amp esc

I bought 30C's already but found a great deal on some 20C's so thought I'd check with the experts before ordering.

I plan on scale flying mostly putting around nothing crazy with this plane if that helps.

Thanks
4400 ma from a 20c pack should do as long as you keep the amps below 30.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 10:08 PM
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United States, CA, Thousand Oaks
Joined Aug 2012
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Scale flying a 20C will work....but if prices are close..ALWAYS get the higher C rating.. These days a 20C pack is about the lowest you can get...If you are going to get them...I HOPE the price is VERY low..as 5~10 $'s more for a 50C is well worth the cost..IF your motor can use it.

I personally dislike underpowered planes ( back in the brushed-Nicad days) ..So these days I go for ++ Power...but can always throttle back for putt putt flying.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 06:16 AM
Aus
ʎןɟ inverted ɹǝpunuʍop
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Australia, ACT, Amaroo
Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordks View Post
I think the folks you talked with should really be the most up to date resource on this issue. I only mentioned it because this warning has been passed down for quite some time here, and in other threads - for years as a matter of fact. I think you are the first to actually go back to the manufacturer for current information. I notice that that page specifically mentions DSM, but not DSM2 or DSMX. Maybe the later versions (like yours) do not suffer from these problems. If that is the case it would be nice of them to update the page to state that. Did you record your conversation with the folks at Horizon? Might be useful in a court of law if their assurances turn out to be wrong. I would just try it on the ground first and see if it does anything unusual. I certainly can not say that it will not work from any personal experience or knowledge.

I do like the HK unit, if it is the same one I have. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=8863 I have three of them. Three adjustment pots, one controls speed for extension, one controls the speed of retraction and one that controls the reversal of 'channel 3' (really exactly the same as 'channel 1' and 'channel 2' except that it can be reversed).

Hope you get it soon so you can get on with your build.

Gord
Hi Northriver21,

I've been using one of these in my FunCub with a spektrum DSM2 radio for over 12 months and have never had an issue. I've set it up so the flaps deploy down slowly and then retract fast. It looks very cool and because of the slow deployment, it doesn't pitch violently. I read the report from spektrum and others here in this thread about the impending doom my FunCub was about to face, but I did the research, weighed up the pros/cons and accepted the risk. Maybe I've been lucky so far. Like most parts of this hobby, do the research, weigh up this risks, and make the decision best for you.

Good luck and keep us all posted.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 12:13 PM
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United States, AK, Anchorage
Joined Feb 2013
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Aus,

Thank you for the report. It's good to get intel from users who are using the products in question.

What you are describing is exactly why I decided to try this unit. I am using a 5ch rx so I need to solve the quick pitch up issue without a programmable radio.

Just curious are you using flaps in the 90 degree position or ???? I will only have 1 position flaps so I'm thinking 90 is not for me just yet.

Thanks for the reply
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 12:28 PM
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United States, IL, Joliet
Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by northriver21 View Post
Aus,

Thank you for the report. It's good to get intel from users who are using the products in question.

What you are describing is exactly why I decided to try this unit. I am using a 5ch rx so I need to solve the quick pitch up issue without a programmable radio.

Just curious are you using flaps in the 90 degree position or ???? I will only have 1 position flaps so I'm thinking 90 is not for me just yet.

Thanks for the reply
From alot of flying when we had no computer radio's if it pitches up just feed in some down elev by hand. I have a computer radio and could program it in on all my flap planes but i think it helps my fingers to never to get lazy .Its alot easyer than how i learned to fly a heli before they invented a gyro.lol joe
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 05:05 PM
Aus
ʎןɟ inverted ɹǝpunuʍop
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Australia, ACT, Amaroo
Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by northriver21 View Post
Aus,

Thank you for the report. It's good to get intel from users who are using the products in question.

What you are describing is exactly why I decided to try this unit. I am using a 5ch rx so I need to solve the quick pitch up issue without a programmable radio.

Just curious are you using flaps in the 90 degree position or ???? I will only have 1 position flaps so I'm thinking 90 is not for me just yet.

Thanks for the reply
I am away from home at the moment so I can't give you the exact measurements, but I have my flaps on a 3 position switch:

Off = Streamlined
Half = ~40 degrees
Full = ~80 degrees

If you only have an on/off switch available, I would recommend about 30-40 degrees. Once you're comfortable with that and want to experiment you can increase the deflections. If I deploy my flaps, it is mostly to the half position anyway.

I also haven't mixed any elevator in with my flaps as I like to feel/see/react myself, but one day I'll experiment further with it as I believe (from reading these forums) that most people with mix capable radios use a flap/elevator mix.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 06:29 PM
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Full flaps are really not used for flying, at least in full scale. Use about half or little less to fly slow and then full to land. I have mine at 40 and then 100 for landing and of course full up for normal flight.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 07:32 PM
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United States, FL, West Melbourne
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I use about 20-25 degrees and about 40. This relates to a Cessna 150. Low flaps provide additional lift and a slower stall speed without excessive drag. Great for takeoff and maneuvers. Full at 40 produces a lot of additional drag. More than that stalls the flaps and makes a higher stall speed. Cessna now only allows 30 degrees full flaps on the 152. I am actually going for more like 15 degrees for the initial setting.

90 degrees will however stop it in midair. I recommend trying some lower values. I can fly stable inverted with 20 degrees of flaps and get great loops.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by northriver21 View Post
Hey guys,

First post in this thread..... I ordered a Fun Cub RR recently and my goal was to read this entire thread before subscribing with my first question.

Well I made it to page 372 when the FC showed up at my door. I let it sit in the box for a few days because I am waiting for a turnigy servo reducer/reverser and a few other parts that I read about here in this thread. I still plan to read the entire thread but I already need some advice and I hope my issue has not already been covered.

Today I caved and figured I could at least start putting it together and dry fitting the electronics when I ran into a few glitches in the RR version.

I chose to put a deans connector on the ESC so I began to unplug the ESC from the motor wires so I could solder on the deans connecter. The white wire in the ESC just pulled right off in my hand.

I called multiplex and they offered to send me a new one. While I am waiting for that and since I already had the soldering iron out, I decided to try and repair it. I got it back together but I did not have a large enough heat shrink tube to replace it so I just tucked it all together and sheilded the connections with electrical tape..... Is that OK?

On to the next glitch. got it all put together and hooked up the control arms and they sure didnt leave much extra rod, as the control rod just barely went throught the linkage and barely had enough for the grub screw to bite. After a few runs through the controls the rods slipped out so I put them back in a little tighter this time.

The next issue, and this is the reason for my first post, is I cannot get the elevator to move in the right direction. Pull back on the stick and the elevator goes down (nose down airplane). I tried reversing the servo wire in the RX port but that resulted in no movement at all. Next I tried reversing the direction on the RX but it still moves exactly the same.

A little about my set up. I am trying to use the Spektrum DX5e until I can upgrade my radio. I know this is not the ideal setup but its what I have. I am going to try and set up flaps on the gear channel with 30-40 degree throws mechanically and use the turnigy unit to slow and reverse the flaps. If this does not work I will just fly no flaps in the meantime.

Any feedback you could provide on my elevator problem or my radio setup would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance
for reversing the elevator servo, just flip the reverse switch on your tx.

as for reversing a servo and y'ing together on 1 channel for flaps, and since you know how to solder, the most elegant solution is to NOT use a servo reverser or hack up your wing, but re wire 1 servo so it operates in reverse. all you have to do is re solder 2 sets of wires in the servo. just youtube "how to reverse a servo" and the first hit will be an excellent, no brainer, step by step video done by nightflyyr. the video is less than 5min long and if you have steady hands, is easier to do than swapping a connector on an esc. no heat shrink, electrical tape needed and since the wire are small gauge, it takes very little heat and therefore very little time

How to REVERSE a Servo. (4 min 32 sec)
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