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Old Jun 26, 2012, 10:06 PM
Bay Area Prop Buster
Bluhammer's Avatar
Bay Area CA
Joined Jan 2011
3,867 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
I would try injecting thin regular CA in all the joints. Think about giving BOTOX like injections to all the glue joints.
That's what I would do, after having a good cry first. It'll work ok.

Blu
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Old Jun 26, 2012, 11:03 PM
RC Airplane (Recently Crashed)
mutha's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Jan 2011
2,754 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
So, you might be fine goobering up the joints.
I just love that word ... so evocative of how I repair my ummm ...mistakes ....
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 04:00 AM
An unexpected error occurred
Phaedra's Avatar
Belgium, Flemish Region, Duffel
Joined Apr 2012
609 Posts
I had some issues with my motor too.
I first bought a cheaper alternative to the original MPX motors, Torcster.
Worked particularly well, apart from the well known vibration problem, which I solved with the alu motor mount.
But after like 5 minutes of flying, I got problems : strange noise, very loud buzzing, combined with a loss of power. Cycling the throttle made it disappear, but it kept on reoccuring for the rest of the flight. Sometimes it was at full throttle, sometimes even at idle or any other power setting. Experimented with the timing on the ESC, to no avail.
At some point I gave up, didn't want to risk my model and bought the Himax 3522, love that engine, the power, the responsiveness...but had a minor crash on takeoff last week, bending the shaft.
While I wait for a replacement shaft, I went back to my original Torcster motor, and while mounting that one I noticed that the venting holes in the motor mount do not match those of the motor. That could explain the problems I experienced after some minutes of flight, and never when the motor was still cold.
I now modified the motor mount slightly, so I get a better cooling for both motors, and as soon as I return from my holidays I will test both motors again to see if my theory is correct.
O yeah, had a minor problem with the Himax too : when I mounted it, with the original bolts, it wouldn't turn, it would just shake a little bit. It appears that the alu motor mount is thinner than the original plastic one, so the new bolts of the Himax were too long and protruted too far inside the motor, causing trouble. Replaced the bolts with slightly shorter ones, problem gone.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 08:05 AM
Registered User
Starving Bushman's Avatar
United States, VA, Alexandria
Joined Nov 2011
516 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by zmonster97
"I'm pretty sure all you would have to do is take off the clip, unscrew the set screws on the front that hold the shaft on and gently tap the shaft through the motor.

I'm not 100% sure though, so someone chime in if I'm wrong."



After watching some more video and with the advice I've received from the group here, I popped off the clip, loosened the screws (there are 2 of them on this little guy), and pulled the motor apart. My only concern at this point is that after re-aligning the shaft there is no notch to reinstall the clip on the shaft. Do I need to find a collar to put on that side of the shaft? Thanks for all of the help guys.


Anybody know the answer? Surely somebody out there has reversed the shaft on a Turnigy motor....
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 08:17 AM
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Prof100's Avatar
Canton, Michigan USA
Joined Jul 2007
16,219 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mutha View Post
I just love that word ... so evocative of how I repair my ummm ...mistakes ....
I hope my usage of the word is "Aussie" appropriate.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 08:44 AM
Takeoff=Option Landing=Must
robusp's Avatar
USA, NY, Depew
Joined Jan 2009
782 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Starving Bushman View Post
My only concern at this point is that after re-aligning the shaft there is no notch to reinstall the clip on the shaft. Do I need to find a collar to put on that side of the shaft? Thanks for all of the help guys.


Anybody know the answer? Surely somebody out there has reversed the shaft on a Turnigy motor....
Is there a flat for set screw in the right spot? Put one in with file or dremmel tool. You don't need to worry about a collar or clip. Just make sure and don't push on the shaft when you are installing prop adapter.

Rob
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 10:17 AM
Fly Seaplanes
Fviking's Avatar
Sandy Hook, CT.
Joined Jun 2009
105 Posts
Fun Cub Flap reversing solution

The other day I read someone say he got his servo reversing cable for his flaps on his FunCub.
Multiplex makes great planes, but they dropped the ball on this one, Here was my solution, see attached photos. one side works normally, the other servo is installed as a mirror image of the first (just like the Aileron servos) and you get the same result, one Flap down one Flap up. I simply installed the second Flap servo in exactly the same orientation as the first. I had to remove a tiny piece of foam with a hobby knife first, now both Flaps work correctly. It's so simple.and I didn't have to drive 50miles to the hobby shop only to find they didn't have what I needed.
I had yellow electrical tape hiding the servos and peeled it back for the photo.
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Last edited by Fviking; Jun 27, 2012 at 10:19 AM. Reason: additional info
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 10:34 AM
Fly Seaplanes
Fviking's Avatar
Sandy Hook, CT.
Joined Jun 2009
105 Posts
Reversing the motor shaft for bulkhead monut

Quote:
Originally Posted by Starving Bushman View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by zmonster97
"I'm pretty sure all you would have to do is take off the clip, unscrew the set screws on the front that hold the shaft on and gently tap the shaft through the motor.

I'm not 100% sure though, so someone chime in if I'm wrong."



After watching some more video and with the advice I've received from the group here, I popped off the clip, loosened the screws (there are 2 of them on this little guy), and pulled the motor apart. My only concern at this point is that after re-aligning the shaft there is no notch to reinstall the clip on the shaft. Do I need to find a collar to put on that side of the shaft? Thanks for all of the help guys.


Anybody know the answer? Surely somebody out there has reversed the shaft on a Turnigy motor....
When the Turnigy motor is run as you received it, with the prop on the bell, The prop is trying to pull the shaft out of the motor, So they put an E clip on the shaft and give you a "wheel collar" to install for insurance.

When you reverse the shaft and use a prop adapter the prop is now trying to pull the shaft out of the motor bell, and you have 2 set screws holding it in the bell. don't forget to tighten them.

If you push on the shaft installing the prop adapter, you are trying to push the bell off the motor, usually very difficult. Once the motor starts to run the bell should return to it's proper place. The Prop is pulling the shaft/bell in the correct direction, unless you are using a pusher propeller.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 10:52 AM
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Starving Bushman's Avatar
United States, VA, Alexandria
Joined Nov 2011
516 Posts
I was hoping that this was the case. So, if I am understanding correctly, the grub screws will hold the shaft in place so to speak, and the clip is no longer needed. The bearings will stay in place without the clip though?
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 12:48 PM
cheapskate extroardinairé
United States, CA, Marin
Joined Jul 2011
1,063 Posts
IT'S HERE! now, if only my family weren't so hyper-obsessive about birthdays, i mean really, i'm turning 15 for gods sake =( anyway, the upshot is i can't open it till sunday. hope my motor will be here by then! what sort of shipping time can i expect from hobbyking if i used ems shipping?
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 02:58 PM
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Del-Dredd's Avatar
Near Aberystwyth - Wales
Joined Aug 2004
2,116 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Starving Bushman View Post
I was hoping that this was the case. So, if I am understanding correctly, the grub screws will hold the shaft in place so to speak, and the clip is no longer needed. The bearings will stay in place without the clip though?
You should be fine, you can add a wheel collet at the front for peace of mind, as long as you have enough room on the shaft between the bearing and Prop adaptor of course.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 03:00 PM
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United States, VA, Alexandria
Joined Nov 2011
516 Posts
Cool deal. Thanks.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 03:51 PM
R.C. Aviation Fanatic
Razors edge 29's Avatar
Canada
Joined Aug 2009
20,028 Posts
just finished installing the G15 950 kv motor into funcub with alum motor mount.

It will spool up to about 85% throttle before the vibs start. I'm using s 12x4 APC. but, maybe I should try a higher pitch prop, perhaps a 12x6.

I am going to test fly as is tonight weather permitting.!
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 09:21 PM
Registered User
Joined Jul 2008
11 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by moronicus View Post
Just completed mine and flew it this weekend! It weighs in at 42 oz, is that a bit on the high side? It's not a "rocket", but flies great.

The goodies:
Emax GT2812/10 Motor
APC 11 x 5.5E Prop
Hifei 45A ESC with switchmode BEC
EZ FLITE Lipo Battery 11.1v 2200mah 40C
All from http://www.headsuprc.com

The headsup website states that this motor and prop should pull 47 oz thrust at 24 amps.

I had a few issues yesterday with the motor cutting out when accelerating which resulted in a couple hard landings and very short battery life, but then i discovered that the "factory default" settings on the ESC are not correct for this setup. Reprogrammed it and runs good now. Decent power and long run times.

Have fun,

Marc
I am building now- using the same ESC. What change needs to be made to the ESC programming? Thanks!
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 10:59 PM
Registered User
dk31's Avatar
Athens
Joined Oct 2009
704 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Starving Bushman View Post
I was hoping that this was the case. So, if I am understanding correctly, the grub screws will hold the shaft in place so to speak, and the clip is no longer needed. The bearings will stay in place without the clip though?
If the bearing is not tight enough, you can add a little blue locktite. You may also want to order some replacement shafts, to have in hand. Find a shaft of the same diameter - they usually have a rail for c-clip. Length is not so critical - you can use a 3536 shaft and dremel or file an indent for the set screws.
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