I used a water based Varathane

Glossy coat diamond finish

35Mhz, that motor goes well with a 12X6, thats what me and my brother fly on.
Still on my original prop as well after two hundred plus flights (gave up counting),
probably needs rebalancing after all the Dandelion stalks and tall Daisys it has taken care of.
Then again i dont suffer from vibration and motor has never missed a beat.

Well got my new motor shaft, and installed it yesterday.
Bench run it up and, whats this? there was a 1/32 wobble in it.
After checking, I found that the prop adapter was also bent.
Just happened to have another one (different style).
Now ready to go, just waiting for the wind to die down again

I just received my electronics needed to complete my build. My question is "How do I "flip" the prop shaft in the motor?". Do I remove the little c clip and pull the shaft out and re-insert from other side of the motor? It's a Turnigy motor if that matters.......

Motor ident would help, 3536 110o Kv etc.

Usually best to remove Bell from the motor doing it this way round or you will be stressing the bearings.

May not need to take shaft out, most Emax you just remove rear E clip and unscrew grub screw on the bell then push shaft through (usually in a vice or drill press) using a long socket etc to give clearance for shaft.

Re-tighten grub screw and put E clip into slot on what is now the prop end of shaft.

Probably a video on YouTube which is better than a thousand words as they say.

Thanks Dell. It is a Turnigy D3530-14 1100kv http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=18225 . I watched a video but it was an older, much different motor than what I have. It involved grinding a flat spot on the shaft and some other steps that I am not sure about. Not knowing how similar the process is between the 2 different motors I am trying to gather as much info as I can before attempting.

Originally Posted by Starving Bushman

Thanks Dell. It is a Turnigy D3530-14 1100kv http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=18225 . I watched a video but it was an older, much different motor than what I have. It involved grinding a flat spot on the shaft and some other steps that I am not sure about. Not knowing how similar the process is between the 2 different motors I am trying to gather as much info as I can before attempting.

I'm pretty sure all you would have to do is take off the clip, unscrew the set screws on the front that hold the shaft on and gently tap the shaft through the motor.

I'm not 100% sure though, so someone chime in if I'm wrong.

Originally Posted by Starving Bushman

Thanks Dell. It is a Turnigy D3530-14 1100kv http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=18225 . I watched a video but it was an older, much different motor than what I have. It involved grinding a flat spot on the shaft and some other steps that I am not sure about. Not knowing how similar the process is between the 2 different motors I am trying to gather as much info as I can before attempting.

That's a small motor for that speed, let us know how it goes.

The Funcub book clearly states not to use,"white glue, polyurethane or epoxy" and asked to use only medium viscosity CA "for all joints". This is where I think I screwed up, I used "100% foam safe CA". I had the elevator joint just pop off with little stress after I glued it in with kicker and had it set overnight. The plane is all most completely built and my fear is all the other joints are at risk of being brittle. I'm more fearful because of the Minimag book saying, "DO NOT use styrofoam cyano".
Help please, this is my 1st build!
Brian

Originally Posted by B dog

The Funcub book clearly states not to use,"white glue, polyurethane or epoxy" and asked to use only medium viscosity CA "for all joints". This is where I think I screwed up, I used "100% foam safe CA". I had the elevator joint just pop off with little stress after I glued it in with kicker and had it set overnight. The plane is all most completely built and my fear is all the other joints are at risk of being brittle. I'm more fearful because of the Minimag book saying, "DO NOT use styrofoam cyano".
Help please, this is my 1st build!
Brian

Brian,

You have to work on those reading comprehension skills BEFORE you build. You probably are not the first person to use the wrong glue. Your options are to do nothing and fly it; buy some medium or thin CA and inject it into all the glue joints; throw the plane away and start all over again with a new kit and the correct glue. Maybe someone who did the same thing you did with Foam Safe CA can add real data.

Bill

Originally Posted by zmonster97

I'm pretty sure all you would have to do is take off the clip, unscrew the set screws on the front that hold the shaft on and gently tap the shaft through the motor.

I'm not 100% sure though, so someone chime in if I'm wrong.

After watching some more video and with the advice I've received from the group here, I popped off the clip, loosened the screws (there are 2 of them on this little guy), and pulled the motor apart. My only concern at this point is that after re-aligning the shaft there is no notch to reinstall the clip. Do I need to find a collar to put on that side of the shaft? Thanks for all of the help guys.

Bill,
Sadly that's exactly what I expected to hear after noticing my mistake. I'm doing damage control now by applying "Beacon Foam-Tac" EPP safe glue over all the wing joints built with the wrong glue. When I say over, I mean all over as they are laying in the correct spots and i'm laying the glue wide over the area in attempt to build strenght, lacking the geometry of the original design with the proper adhesive. Man what a dumb move, I can't slap my head hard enough. I haven't glued the tail feathers in nor the fuse two halfs, I did hot glue the main servos and have not installed the wing servos. Shall I bite the bullet and buy another $120 kit? (not my worst RC mistake $$ wise) Or just a main wing and do it right with the glue? On second thought the main motor mounts are glued wrong........thoughts???
Brian

Originally Posted by B dog

Bill,
Sadly that's exactly what I expected to hear after noticing my mistake. I'm doing damage control now by applying "Beacon Foam-Tac" EPP safe glue over all the wing joints built with the wrong glue. When I say over, I mean all over as they are laying in the correct spots and i'm laying the glue wide over the area in attempt to build strenght, lacking the geometry of the original design with the proper adhesive. Man what a dumb move, I can't slap my head hard enough. I haven't glued the tail feathers in nor the fuse two halfs, I did hot glue the main servos and have not installed the wing servos. Shall I bite the bullet and buy another $120 kit? (not my worst RC mistake $$ wise) Or just a main wing and do it right with the glue? On second thought the main motor mounts are glued wrong........thoughts???
Brian

I would try injecting thin regular CA in all the joints. Think about giving BOTOX like injections to all the glue joints.

It's listed as a EPP safe glue but its flexible. The control devises need to be firm/solid so my damage control is not just adding weight but is incorrect again for the correct solution if there is one. I'm just going to stop now and wait for your advise.
Brian
PS I did stress test the improperly glued peices and they held just fine, unlike my elevator fail where it just came off easily.

Originally Posted by B dog

It's listed as a EPP safe glue but its flexible. The control devises need to be firm/solid so my damage control is not just adding weight but is incorrect again for the correct solution if there is one. I'm just going to stop now and wait for your advise.
Brian
PS I did stress test the improperly glued peices and they held just fine, unlike my elevator fail where it just came off easily.

Beacon's Foam Tac is an excellent glue for foam but it's a contact adhesive where airplane part A and airplane part B have glue applied to contact surfaces, let skin and then press together. Once dried the foam will tear apart before the glue fails. However, it could also be used as "Tacky" glue as well. So, you might be fine goobering up the joints.