I don't think anyone has tried to cover the wing spars with balsa or anything else. They do look ugly when looking at the planf but when it'd flying you'll never be able to see them.

I just put a strip of white electrical tape over the spars and servo wires.

Blu

Tape for me too. I found some white electrical tape just wide enough!

Originally Posted by mixer421

Just received my Fun Cub and done a bit of dry fitting to see how it all works. I don't like the exposed tubular spars. I'm thinking of covering them with balsa strip. Has anyone any other ideas? I assume this will not affect performance. Probably been answered in earlier posts. ;-)

If you plan on painting your FC - you can fill the void over with spackle - otherwise white tape would work great!

I measured around 400w (+/- 5W) with a 14x7 APCe on the ground. This 14x7 is a bit overpropped for this motor though. I am not giving it WOT for longer than 30 sec. This is on 3s Zippy 2200mAh.

Originally Posted by comelit79

some data obtained with the watt meter?

Thanks in advance for any help!

I am little confused on how to get my buddy box connection going.

I have a DX7 and my "Trainee" has a DX4e (that came with the RTF Fun Cub, apparently).

I think the DX7 is demanding that it be bound to the 'Cub, which de-binds the stock radio. Confirm?

If so, I think I should make a new program just for the 'Cub. Then we re-bind the stock radio when we are done with Training? Hmmm...

Also, I am not clear on which Trainer Mode I should set the DX7 for the best response.

Is there a how-to you can direct me to, or is it a simple setup?

Originally Posted by markind

Thanks in advance for any help!

I am little confused on how to get my buddy box connection going.

I have a DX7 and my "Trainee" has a DX4e (that came with the RTF Fun Cub, apparently).

I think the DX7 is demanding that it be bound to the 'Cub, which de-binds the stock radio. Confirm?

If so, I think I should make a new program just for the 'Cub. Then we re-bind the stock radio when we are done with Training? Hmmm...

Also, I am not clear on which Trainer Mode I should set the DX7 for the best response.

Is there a how-to you can direct me to, or is it a simple setup?

Think you are talking about the horizon or e-flite RTF cub not the multiplex Fun cub but regardless try this...

DX7 Buddy Box Set-Up (3 min 55 sec)

How to Connect a Buddy Box (3 min 26 sec)

Originally Posted by Bluhammer

I just put a strip of white electrical tape over the spars and servo wires.

Blu

I hate "electrical tape" with a passion. I just do not like the adhesive used on it, especially when it gets old and you try to remove it.
I myself would rather use "SolarTrim", the type that has the stick on adhesive. It's also lighter then electrical tape.

Originally Posted by .Steve

I hate "electrical tape" with a passion. I just do not like the adhesive used on it, especially when it gets old and you try to remove it.
I myself would rather use "SolarTrim", the type that has the stick on adhesive. It's also lighter then electrical tape.

Hi Steve, is that the same as solar film?? Do you iron it on or is it adhesive backed???

Colored packing tape would be a good choice for this.

http://www.tapebrothers.com/Colored-...apes-s/218.htm
http://www.fast-pack.com/colored_tape.html

So it begins, just got her in 10 min ago.

Originally Posted by RTF Thumper

So it begins, just got her in 10 min ago.

I hate you! Ours won't be here till tomorrow afternoon!

YOU ARE A BAD PERSON!

Originally Posted by Kimber

I hate you! Ours won't be here till tomorrow afternoon!

YOU ARE A BAD PERSON!

The good thing is its on its way, most sites are already out and lots of back orders.
I am still waiting for other parts so it will be weeks before she flies.

Originally Posted by mutha

Hi Steve, is that the same as solar film?? Do you iron it on or is it adhesive backed???

I am not sure if it is the same as "solar film". The "Solar Trim" I found in the UK and it is adhesive backed, not iron-on. It is really thin film.
However, I think they do make an iron-on covering as well.
I used it on my FC where it was an after thought and applied it over the finished paint. So far there has not been any problem with it coming off.
They have all the popular colors, just like everybody else!
I didn't find their website, but did find one of many shops that turned up on the Google search.
http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk...xd.asp?id=1963

Originally Posted by .Steve

I had hoped to get the repair done by now, but local events conspired against me.
Here's some more photos showing the effects of the impact crushing the foam on the starboard side which is going to throw the thrust line way off if I just try to make the foam fit. I've got some creative thinking going on so we'll see how the repairs come out to straighten the nose out.

Here are the pictures of my little Frankenstein.
I used some Elapor I cut out of the wing servo wire hole in the fuselage under the wing to make some filler for the space created in the cracks when I tried to get the alignment back. For some reason it was way off...go figure!

The "perfect" rotation of the nose I could not get back.
You can see it is a bit off clockwise when looking at it from the front. This is due to the one crack just above the port side cylinder bank and my not being able to get it back together completely. I got it as far as I could and I didn't have any clamps to hold it so as the glue dried it spread apart a little bit.
I did have to create some large separation in the cracks on the port side and bottom to get it to be close to the original position.
I used a glue called "BELI-ZELL" as it expands as it dries. This worked to fill the empty spaces in-between the bits of Elapor pieces I shoved into the open cracks to force the alignment.
It is far from perfect, but it is not something that trimming the radio cannot overcome.