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Old Sep 17, 2011, 12:01 AM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
8,422 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
AJ,

As usual, another well narrated AJ Productions video. I find the motor is using is pretty good but prefer the lighter gold 35-36C 1100 kv.

Bill
Thanks for the props. Yes. I agree on the 35-36C (I have 2 of them as you know) and that is what I would recommend to anyone that was asking about a motor for the FC. It is easily the most popular motor for the FC and it works great. Almost scale like. Here is my actual #'s:
3536C-1100
11x7
2300mah 20C - 352Wp
47 oz. thrust
42 oz. AUW
Will almost go sustained vertical

TGY 35-36-1400 (Japan motor)
10x4.7
2300mah 20C - 432Wp
60 oz. thrust
43 oz. AUW
Sustained vertical is simple and easy to control the rocket ship like movement.

That small amount of extra thrust allows a sustained vertical easily without going out of control at WOT. Or, another way of saying it - provides just enough over 1:1 that controlling it is very easy. That is pretty much why I suffix all of the above by saying it is perfect "for me". It is not at all like the 2505-2835 MD motor in the SkyS which was WAY over powered even for me. But, it sure makes the stock BL motor seem anemic now that it is back in the plane.
In summary, the best thing I can say is "Go Buy One" - you will not be disappointed - I promise. But, I can say that to YOU because I have a small understanding of your needs and your abilities and this motor fits both. If you hate it, I will buy it from you.
Again, for anyone new to the plane, I would still suggest the 35-36C-1100 for starters (or for permanent). It is a very good motor IMO.
AJ
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Old Sep 17, 2011, 12:11 AM
Registered User
Prof100's Avatar
Canton, Michigan USA
Joined Jul 2007
16,454 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajbaker View Post
Thanks for the props. Yes. I agree on the 35-36C (I have 2 of them as you know) and that is what I would recommend to anyone that was asking about a motor for the FC. It is easily the most popular motor for the FC and it works great. Almost scale like. Here is my actual #'s:
3536C-1100
11x7
2300mah 20C - 352Wp
47 oz. thrust
42 oz. AUW
Will almost go sustained vertical

TGY 35-36-1400 (Japan motor)
10x4.7
2300mah 20C - 432Wp
60 oz. thrust
43 oz. AUW
Sustained vertical is simple and easy to control the rocket ship like movement.

That small amount of extra thrust allows a sustained vertical easily without going out of control at WOT. Or, another way of saying it - provides just enough over 1:1 that controlling it is very easy. That is pretty much why I suffix all of the above by saying it is perfect "for me". It is not at all like the 2505-2835 MD motor in the SkyS which was WAY over powered even for me. But, it sure makes the stock BL motor seem anemic now that it is back in the plane.
In summary, the best thing I can say is "Go Buy One" - you will not be disappointed - I promise. But, I can say that to YOU because I have a small understanding of your needs and your abilities and this motor fits both. If you hate it, I will buy it from you.
Again, for anyone new to the plane, I would still suggest the 35-36C-1100 for starters (or for permanent). It is a very good motor IMO.
AJ
AJ,

Like you I have both but prefer the gold 1100 kv version simply because it weighs less and flys great with a 11x7 APCE.

Bill
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Old Sep 17, 2011, 02:00 AM
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mavlo77's Avatar
The Netherlands
Joined Oct 2008
1,224 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mavlo77 View Post
Could someone get me on the right track for programming crow on a DX8 and a 6 channel receiver for this funcub?

In principle it should be possible when the 2nd aileron is on the gear channel.

Should I select wing type 1 flap, 2 ailerons?

Or should I make a MIX AIL->GEAR? The advantage is that I could somehow assign this to a flight mode switch, so that when I fly on water I can use another flight mode control the gear channel for the water rudder on my floats, which I mix with the rudder (switcheable, and trim with the knob). Of course then I have to connect my 2nd aileron with a Y-lead and no crow function. But I accept that as a trade-off when flying from water.

Any hints of this is possible somehow?
Just to let you that this worked... I mixed the second aileron in a 1 AIL 1 FLAP setting and was able to make crow setting by using a mix for each aileron (FLP->AIL). This way the crow function is automaticly disabled when I switch the flaps to neutral. I also made an elevator compensation

I was surprised that much down elevator is needed to compensate for both ailerons up! Because for flaps (move down) also down elevator is needed, so I expected to need up-elevator .

Another point is that I was not very impressed with crow.
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Old Sep 17, 2011, 04:58 AM
Registered User
United States, FL, Kissimmee
Joined Feb 2011
113 Posts
exceed motor

Woody, hope your still happy with your Exceed 86MB26 motor from Hobby Partz. I went with your suggestion and mine arrived a week or so ago. Starting on my build this weekend.
Thanks for your help.
Ken
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Old Sep 17, 2011, 08:48 PM
JOHN 3:16
Sammy70's Avatar
Central Ohio
Joined Feb 2008
6,346 Posts
We had some good FunCub flying today.

Here's a pic of my Uncle's Cub performing a vertical take-off.

Full flaps, full up elevator, full throttle & a 10mph headwind = FUN!
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Old Sep 17, 2011, 08:52 PM
Motorcycles are my life!
Superduke's Avatar
Manhattan Beach, California
Joined Dec 2004
74 Posts
Vibration

Well, I finally finished the Cub and was testing the setup at home. Got the motor up to about 80% and here comes the bad vibration. Prop is balanced so not sure what's going on. I remember reading a few places here that you might need to reinforce the nose area? What a dissappointment.

Suggestions???
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Old Sep 17, 2011, 09:10 PM
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RV4flyr's Avatar
Canada, ON, Brampton
Joined Mar 2011
117 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Superduke View Post
Well, I finally finished the Cub and was testing the setup at home. Got the motor up to about 80% and here comes the bad vibration. Prop is balanced so not sure what's going on. I remember reading a few places here that you might need to reinforce the nose area? What a dissappointment.

Suggestions???
Yes, I had the same problem. The area behind engine mount needs stiffening. I had some carbon fibre avail. but you can use fibreglass cloth & lay in approx. 2.5 inches deep behind where front engine mount sits with cloth all around even covering side plastic mounts. I used 20 min epoxy between 2 pieces of vapour barrier plastic to squeege epoxy into cloth, then pull wetted cloth out of plastic & lay into mount area. You could also add a wood bulkhead across & behind where your motor sits. Hope I was clear enough for you.

KF
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Old Sep 17, 2011, 09:10 PM
The Balsa Farmer
bassfisher's Avatar
United States, AR, Sherwood
Joined Jul 2005
508 Posts
My Fun Cub (before I install everything)

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Old Sep 17, 2011, 09:13 PM
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Robert H. May's Avatar
USA, VA, Bedford
Joined Jun 2003
70 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Superduke View Post
Well, I finally finished the Cub and was testing the setup at home. Got the motor up to about 80% and here comes the bad vibration. Prop is balanced so not sure what's going on. I remember reading a few places here that you might need to reinforce the nose area? What a dissappointment.

Suggestions???
Superduke,

I reinforced the nose area by laying .5 oz. glass cloth over the side rails, but found that it didn't completely eliminate vibration. In my case, I found that with a CAREFULLY balanced prop, I was fine for first ten or twelve flights, then vibration! It was corrected by insuring that the two motor mount screws were snugged down well with ALL four of the thrust adjusting screws solid against the firewall. I'm left to assume that the motor mount screws had worked loose. I don't know about thread locker on plastic, but if vibration returns, I'm going to try it.

Just my thoughts and experience, for what it's worth....

Bob
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Old Sep 17, 2011, 09:14 PM
JOHN 3:16
Sammy70's Avatar
Central Ohio
Joined Feb 2008
6,346 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bassfisher View Post
my fun cub (before i install everything)
nice!!
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Old Sep 17, 2011, 09:33 PM
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Prof100's Avatar
Canton, Michigan USA
Joined Jul 2007
16,454 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Superduke View Post
Well, I finally finished the Cub and was testing the setup at home. Got the motor up to about 80% and here comes the bad vibration. Prop is balanced so not sure what's going on. I remember reading a few places here that you might need to reinforce the nose area? What a dissappointment.

Suggestions???
Yes, it is the dumb design where only two screws that hold the motor to the plane coupled with a floppy foam from end. Well designed planes have a firewall and 4 screws attaching the motor mount to the firewall. Not Multiplex.

The two screws have to kept torqued for starters. Lock washers or star washers (thank you Jurgen) help with that. Stay on them as part of preflight. If they loosen up the motor rocks around.

Second, there is a u-shaped slot on the side rails. Custom fit a piece of plywood or dowel that can be glued in so the two sides are locked together.

Third, recheck the prop balance in case you speed balanced it and it's not what is should be to prevent vibration.

I glassed it with .5 oz cloth and epoxy resin after assembling but I really don't think it did squart. On my second Funcub that's new in a box I am going to put a real firewall in the fuselage and mount the motor using four screws. Picture a conventional firewall with a motor mount.

Bill
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Last edited by Prof100; Sep 18, 2011 at 12:16 AM.
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Old Sep 17, 2011, 11:08 PM
Registered User
Joined Jul 2006
70 Posts
I ordered this motor and I must say that it is a "drop-in" motor for this plane. All four mounting screws align perfectly into the mounting plate. Great service and speedy delivery as well. This was the first time purchasing from Heads Up RC and gotta say, I will be using these guys again for sure..........
http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...8-motor/Detail
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Old Sep 17, 2011, 11:13 PM
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Chappy110's Avatar
WV-northern panhandle
Joined Oct 2008
94 Posts
Nice job on the Cub Bassfisher.
Superduke, as for the vibration problem with the motor, likely, as others have pointed out, the engine mounting screws in the plastic mount are no doubt your problem. I solved that by using the plastic engine mount as a template and cutting my own out of a piece of aluminum I had on hand. I cut away losts of the unnecessary material giving better air flow to the esc & battery as well. I'm no machinest I simply used a drill, a sabre saw, and a drimmel to finish it up. Works great and no vibration.
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Old Sep 17, 2011, 11:31 PM
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Joined Jul 2006
70 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bassfisher View Post
My Fun Cub (before I install everything)


Fantastic! great job, the motor mount looks good painted as well! I need to do that myself........
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Old Sep 18, 2011, 12:12 AM
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Prof100's Avatar
Canton, Michigan USA
Joined Jul 2007
16,454 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chappy110 View Post
Nice job on the Cub Bassfisher.
Superduke, as for the vibration problem with the motor, likely, as others have pointed out, the engine mounting screws in the plastic mount are no doubt your problem. I solved that by using the plastic engine mount as a template and cutting my own out of a piece of aluminum I had on hand. I cut away losts of the unnecessary material giving better air flow to the esc & battery as well. I'm no machinest I simply used a drill, a sabre saw, and a drimmel to finish it up. Works great and no vibration.
Very creative solution but you could have bought a CNC aluminum mount made by SOTOG from RCgroups directly from him, or at HeadsupRC.
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