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Old Apr 23, 2011, 11:30 PM
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Prof100's Avatar
Canton, Michigan USA
Joined Jul 2007
16,249 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taildragger55 View Post
Very true. Maybe I'll reverse the servo someday but I did maiden my FunCUb today, FINALLY. It met all my expectations, it's easy to fly, no bad habits, and no failures of any kind. Unfortunatly, no pics or videos. We did witness an overpowered T-28 foamy auger in after the elevator decieded to seperate from the tail. Still, it was a nice day to fly.
Yes, it is a joy to fly with no bad habits. An overpowered T28 crash? That's probably a daily occurence somewhere.
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Old Apr 24, 2011, 03:52 AM
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The Netherlands
Joined Oct 2008
1,224 Posts
Also maidened my Funcub yesterday. Completely white, not paint or decals yet.

With the CG at the recommended position, the tail tends to hang down in the turns. Has nothing to do with the differential on the ailerons since it is IN the turn (so no ailerons involved). So I shifted the CG little less than 0.5" forward, and now it flies really great! Nice axial rolls, inverted with minimal up-elevator, and verticals without problems.

Using a 11x5.5 prop on 1000 kV RC-timer moter BC3536-8 with a 5 mm shaft. You have to reverse the shaft, but then it fits without modifications (only for the wired I cut some foam on the side).
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Old Apr 24, 2011, 09:42 AM
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Anchorage, Alaska
Joined Nov 2008
603 Posts
Mine's still pure white too, except I did apply the window decals. The recommended CG is too far back, most of us are setting the CG at or just behind the front wing spar. Now that I've flown it, I'm thinking of paint schemes.

It flew good, a little fine tuning may be in order, may fiddle with thrust angles and CG to get it just right. When trimmed to fly straight and level at 1/2 throttle, it climbs when you add more throttle. That could be the wing though, as it gains speed with added throttle, it gains lift too.
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Old Apr 24, 2011, 01:27 PM
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baumerm's Avatar
USA, OR, Carlton
Joined Aug 2009
177 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Rdnek View Post
<..>
The only other thing I have available is my DX7 and a 6100 RX. Is there a way to get my ailerons on the AILERON and AUX1 channels so I can still have the aileron differential, and put both flaps through a Y harness on the GEAR channel and assign that to the 3 position switch?
<..>
Ron
I put my ailerons on a Y cable because I wanted to preserve the gear switch for the tow release, but if that's no concern you can use the gear output for the flaps. Use one mix to "disable" the gear switch by selecting gear as master and slave, with the amount set to -100. Now the gear switch should not affect the gear output anymore. Then use a mix with Flap as master and Gear as slave. Last in the Flaps setup, set your flaps and elevator settings for the 3-position flap switch. I am writing this from memory, without actually trying it on my DX7, so take it with a grain of salt. If you have any troubles send me a PM.

Martin
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Old Apr 24, 2011, 02:43 PM
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Near Aberystwyth - Wales
Joined Aug 2004
2,116 Posts
Para Drop from Funcub

FunCub 1 (2 min 1 sec)


Show paradrop from my payload bay, attached with 2 screws to recessed ply blocks glued in with Hotglue.
Made from 6mm Depron, two hinges at back, release at front, small elastic band at rear helps open the door.
Not had it fail to open yet, Servo just pulls a thin rod through a tube and out of the old servo horn in the door.
Land flip plane over, reload bay, close door and move release switch to closed positon, take off and drop again.

No great effect on plane with door closed or open, thats why I added the extra bits for slope on front (reduce the drag).

Pics of payload bay, and Nerf Whistling Dart drop.
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Old Apr 24, 2011, 02:55 PM
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Near Aberystwyth - Wales
Joined Aug 2004
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Pic of my Modified Nerf Whisling Darts.

I added 3 fins to each, just slit with blade and cyno'd em in, 20 by 15 mm triangle.

Cut some flat lead into strip and folded 2-3 gram piece to push down each dart, small piece of foam and cyno keeps it down front.

Fall and fly a lot better and make nice whistle and small thud when they hit ground, still very light and soft to prevent damage.
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Old Apr 24, 2011, 10:17 PM
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Joined Feb 2009
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Fun Cub set up

This is my first build, the fun cub, the threads been alot of help, but I am stuck I have himax 3516--36amp thunderbird--13x4 prop---4-futaba s3114---2 hilex HS-81--2100 3cell lipo----and I am using spectrum ds6i radio os I also order a turnigy 3 channel servo speed/direction regulator for the flaps--I guess... Question is my esc big enough? how do I wire it so I can use half and full flaps... do I need the 3 channel servo/direction regulator I have read over 1000 threads and I am still lost---info overload can some one help jim
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Old Apr 24, 2011, 10:43 PM
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SON OF PALEFACE's Avatar
YANKALILLA , SOUTH AUSTRALIA.
Joined Nov 2002
5,234 Posts
The speedy should b big enough , if it isnt drop the prop size down a size or 2
put both flap servos the same way , ie both with the output arms to the left and put them on a Y lead......the ailerons can also b on a Y lead...cant help u with the DS6 , I use a DX8
Cheerz

Ian

PS mine flys great on a GWS 10X6
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Old Apr 24, 2011, 10:59 PM
Vanadu
Heavy Chevy's Avatar
Canada, YT, Whitehorse
Joined Dec 2008
3,830 Posts
Hey guys,

Bad news for me, I'm selling my Fun Cub. I'm simply out of space.

It's NIB, float kit and Terry made motor mount:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...3#post18061399
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Old Apr 24, 2011, 11:23 PM
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Joined May 2009
380 Posts
I'm looking for a new FPV plane that is not an easystar. My choices right now are the Fun Cub or a ParkZone t-28. Does the Fun Cub have enough space in the fuse for extra electronics? Is it tough enough to handle mild crashes, needing only simple repairs?
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Old Apr 25, 2011, 12:19 AM
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The Netherlands
Joined Oct 2008
1,224 Posts
The space inside is not as big as you might expect from such a plane...

Check this:



The space under the wing is quite full with the receiver, wires etc... And for CG the battery needs to the fitted far aft, partly under it. The space in the front has the ESC, part of the battery. Possibly a small Tx can be mounted there.

It can handle rough landing, but crashes? I never test this .
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Old Apr 25, 2011, 12:24 AM
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The Netherlands
Joined Oct 2008
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Here a movie of my 2nd flight:

Multiplex Funcub 2nd flight (2 min 20 sec)


I experimented a bit with landing with or without flaps. Quite a difference! Without you can do a dead stick landing, and you need some space. With full flaps you cerainly need power and your rollout is one ft or so .
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Old Apr 25, 2011, 03:12 AM
Ozzie Express wiggy pilot
SON OF PALEFACE's Avatar
YANKALILLA , SOUTH AUSTRALIA.
Joined Nov 2002
5,234 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mavlo77 View Post
Here a movie of my 2nd flight:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9O37ygHx5jg

I experimented a bit with landing with or without flaps. Quite a difference! Without you can do a dead stick landing, and you need some space. With full flaps you cerainly need power and your rollout is one ft or so .
i didnt have my binoculars......
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Old Apr 25, 2011, 04:05 AM
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Joined Apr 2011
4 Posts
Fun Cub Flap servo question

Have a question regarding the Multiplex Fun Cub build. Sorry if it is a “duh” question but I just need more clarification on this issue:

This is regarding the setting up of the Flap servo.

The manual states that we should set the flap servos to “neutral” and fit the control arms at 70 degree position before securing them to the wing. My question is, to achieve more flap throws, would it be more logical to set the servos to a maximum throw and fitting the control arms at 70 deg; instead of setting it at “neutral”?

Are there any negative set backs for using this setting?

I am using HS65HB for that function.

Looking forward to your kind inputs.

Thanks in advance! =)
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Old Apr 25, 2011, 04:20 AM
Ozzie Express wiggy pilot
SON OF PALEFACE's Avatar
YANKALILLA , SOUTH AUSTRALIA.
Joined Nov 2002
5,234 Posts
Neutral is wrong , what I did was to set up the whole linkage and play with the servo arm position BEFORE I glued the servos in place
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