|Mar 07, 2010, 03:41 PM|
Air Hogs Titan (chuck glider) conversion
I'd been meaning to do a conversion for a few years now and finally got around to it. I had four servos lying around (2 tiny-S, and two mini i dunno the name), a Park 400 outrunner w/ matched 10x6 GWS, and an overkill 30A ESC while I wait for the 20A to arrive. This was my first ever proper firewall mount (thanks to my former use of GWS black stick mounts), and I think it came out pretty nice.
I used a Kobalt sharp knife to carve out the battery and receiver compartments, a hack saw to chop off a bit too much of the nose (which it doesn't seem to mind), and velcro and gift-wrap tape to hold everything in place.
I first flew it as a 3 channel just to make sure it would hold up, flew great even at quarter throttle. Chop the throttle and overall steering is greatly reduced but not entirely lost, good to come in fast. It does glide well but I've learned to keep some power on in case of a gust of wind, which could blow it over if I'm not careful.
I later decided to make the rudder a direct connection, and to add ailerons in the same manner.
1.) Figure out where the servo should sit and hot-glue it in place. Remove the control arm, the screw for which may never be used again.
2.) Figure the location of the arm on the surface, bend a paperclip to fit through any two holes (preferably first and last). My Tiny-S (rudder) arm only had 2 holes so I bent it through, then bent if back out to get more distance. The aileron arms were considerably larger and threading them was a piece of cake.
3.) Design surfaces using desired medium. This is probably the hardest part because of the rear bevel of the wing. I used 1/8" foam-core poster board for my surfaces, and have even built a few deltas out of 1/2" foam-core. It works well and can easily be replaced if it breaks.
4.) Test fit the control arm in the "proper" location, wherever you want the surface to hinge. I gave it a half-n-half, so it bites into the air coming off the wings instead of merely deflecting the flow. While doing the arm fit also find the hinge point on the other side. I drilled a 1/16" hole in a Popsicle stick to make the outer hinge.
5.) Once everything looks alright, hot glue everything in place.
At home the wings and rudder can be removed for storage, they also pop off in the event of a crash. On the field everything can be popped in place, after a crash the only thing that may be broken is the prop (even with the prop-saver).
During the flight with ailerons I forgot to re-press one of the wings on firmly and during take off the aileron fell off, but it flew a little better for some reason.
Just behind the firewall is a stick, this acts both as crash reinforcement and as an accessory port. The black object on the back is the landing gear holder from a GWS Slow Stick, which as I found with my easy star (background in first pic), works very well with coat hanger wire.
If you have any more questions feel free to ask.
EDIT: Ailerons are not worth it, it becomes incredibly unstable and they simply no not have any authority to correct. Upon removal of the surfaces it flew just fine, removal of the servos didn't make much difference.
|Apr 06, 2010, 08:12 PM|
I recently got 2 more Titans, 1 for permanent chuckie fun, 1 to make a better conversion with.
The original CG was a bit too far back, and after many experiments had too many holes in it to be airworthy. After one particularly curious incident (in which the rudder popped off just after takeoff, killed the motor too) I went with a stick mounting system in version 2.
Reason #1: The black GWS stick mounts are made of plastic, and in a rare nose-in crash the $1 mount will break instead of the $60 motor.
Reason #2: If ever want to try my speedy motor, I can do so by simply switching out the stick mounts.
Reason #3: I had originally done another firewall, however in an attempt to make the mount more crash resistant, I had made it much more susceptible to vibration from a mis-aligned prop. This caused a terrible racket during flight, like the whole plane was a speaker, I decided to land and quit for the day.
The stick mount went in fine with a little convincing with a hammer, and was further secured with hot glue. I have not flown since, but a standing motor test was much less noisy than before.
I'll elaborate details after I fly... Thanks!
|Apr 18, 2010, 06:43 PM|
I just picked one up from Target today. Going BL and prob just 3ch R\E\T with it. Will take some pics as it goes together.
Waiting on my HK order (TowerPro Motor,ESC,Gearbox,Prop Combo, 2 9g servos)to start channeling out some foam.
It's really a nice sturdy plane for a conversion for $10.
I haven't seen anyone try it, but I wonder if it'd be able to be made as a pusher.
Looks like there's enough foam in the tail of the fuse to mount a stick up in there?
I may try it that way just to see, if not, off to Target for another.....
BTW, what's a good COG point for it?
And, please vid your next flight, may motivate me more into getting it done faster..
This guy has a good setup...
After watching it, prob def will go 3ch E\A\T instead.
|Apr 25, 2010, 11:34 AM|
I did a pusher "funjet" bash with this model -- after some trial and error, it turned out pretty well!
Equipment and stats:
Controls: elevons & rudders
Motor: Motor from E-flite P-40 300 Warhawk ARF (not sure of exact motor specs)
Prop: APC 8x6 SF
Batt: 3S 600mAh lipo
ESC: E-Flite 10A
Fuse Length: 24.75"
Grayson Supersonic Parkjet V2
1500 3s 20C lipo
APC 6x4 prop
|Apr 25, 2010, 02:55 PM|
Nice mod SNice, looks and flies great. Very ingenious.
If your going with the orginal configuration, the first modification to make is to set the horizontal stab at zero incidence as compared to the wing. The molded angles are way out for RC control, but OK for a kid's chuck glider. You can find the proper angle using a long ruler. Make the elevator and rudder from Depron, and save the scraps to fill in about the new stab joint.
The second one to consider is removing most of the rearward sweep from the wing. That will move the CG forwards making the gear installation easier. The factory CG seems to be 14" forward of the fuse from the rear end, but test gliding and adjusting the battery seems to work best. If you change the wing sweep, use the calculator at www.palosrc.com and you'll be good to go.
And third, add a length of strapping tape to the bottom of the wing and packing tape along the fuse bottom and on the LE of the flying surfaces. Then it can really take a beating.
And, forget ailerons with the stock wing dihedral. They wouldn't work unless the top of the wing is flat or less then a few degrees.
Great fun for little work and a few bucks................
|Apr 26, 2010, 08:53 PM|
Target -- outdoor aisle in the kid's toy section -- merchandised next to the kites -- not with the other air hogs products -- $9.99!
|May 03, 2010, 04:06 PM|
I finally got me a couple of these. I'm already wishing I had grabbed a couple of more to experiment with. I already have a pretty good idea what I want to do with the two I have.
For my first one I'm taking out the dihedral, clipping the wings, and giving it a rear prop with taileron control. This should make for a pretty easy build, hopefully it flies well too. I should be able to have something by the weekend, I'll be sure to post results.
|May 11, 2010, 02:30 PM|
air hog Titan chuck glider to F-86F Thunderstreak
Hi you guys,
This is my first time putting notes on RCG. I finally got my Titan conversion done to a F-86F (thunderbird version).
The airframe mods are:
removal of most dihedral (still a bit left to keep it more stable, I am still a newbie (in my earlier test, with the same aileron setup as in the photo while keeping the same wing dihedral as stock, the roll rate was good enough, but invert flight a bit challenging)
cut off both sides of the wing tips. This both reduce the drag and move the CG forward, of course reduce some dead weight. Test flight showed a huge increase in speed and agility.
cut off some elevator tip. Perhaps looks better with a smaller elevator after a smaller wing has been made. Elevator response is good enough to do an inside loop.
shorten the nose to move the CG backward and looks more like a F86F
I cut out the battery space right on the CG area. The battery is velcroed on the bottom of fuse. Several holes were made on both fuse and wing to cool off the battery by using a spare screwdriver heated by a 700W heat gun (as I noticed the battery and ESC became fairly warm after moderate flight)
2408-21T brushless motor with an 18A ESC
7-8 inch prop (I use a 7"(?) high pitch prop for Wattage P-51D, $5.99 for a pair, good speed and durability).
3s 1000-1300 mAh lipo battery
EXCEED RC 2.4GHZ TX/RX
2 x 4g servo on aileron + 1 x 9g servo on elevator (it is purposely concealed under horizontal stab, connected by servo extension, not using long push rod, some cosmetic work
AUW: 400-440 g
Preliminary flight report:
Super stable yet nicely areobatic: good speed (up to 20-30 mph, estimated), inside loops, invert flight, roll are easy. Slow fly with low throttle is stable. This plane flies much nicer than most of my other planes.
|May 11, 2010, 03:19 PM|
Ha ha, these Titan threads are all over the place! I guess it's hard to decided...is it a kit? is it a scratchbuild? i started one for mine in the usher jet section before i realized how many there were already.
Anyway, I'll post my mod here too!
I only made a few changes like take the dihedral out, clipped the front wings at the transition and and inch off of each side of the horizontal stab. The only reinforcement I've done is a piece of cf for the horizontal stab, the rest of the plane is pretty solid as is. this is my setup:
2 HXt 9 gram servos
18 amp Turnigy Plush controller
26 gram HXT outrunner (Blue Wonder) wound 7T24 (2000kv?)
1300 mAh 3 cell Lipo
Flying with just tailerons at about 13.5 Oz. I'm really impressed with how well it flies and will be doing some other mods. I also need to clean this one up, paint it, and make it look pretty. It floats well too, there is definitely room to grow (ie bigger motor, more servos, etc.)
Here is the maiden vid as well. The video isn't bad but the camera was having focusing issues.
|May 11, 2010, 03:56 PM|
Nice job Billwit!
I am considering a pusher jet using this Titan glider for a while: keeping the swept wing, adding canard in the front, single or twin vertical stabs. SNice's idea is great and motivated me to try a swept wing pusher jet... Never fly a pusher jet (except a Hobbypeople pusher jet with twin boom), just experiment with this glider.
Any suggestions about where to add the canard?
|May 11, 2010, 04:31 PM|
On the canard...no idea. Much like you I was inspired by SNice's funjet and this is also my first pusher jet. From what I read, SNice didn't intend on having the canard and only added it to prevent a nose down attitude he was experiencing. The only plane I have with a canard is my Eurofighter EDF that came with them. Beyond aesthetics, I'm not sure what the reason is for them or when to use them...maybe someone else can help.
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