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Old Nov 20, 2010, 10:19 AM
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Old Nov 20, 2010, 11:12 AM
Crashing into the sky!
jackosmeister's Avatar
Auckland NZ
Joined Aug 2007
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Sounds like your CG is slightly too far aft and your elevator linkage is flexing
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Old Nov 20, 2010, 01:49 PM
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ill check that
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Old Nov 20, 2010, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackosmeister View Post
Sounds like your CG is slightly too far aft and your elevator linkage is flexing
i just check and your right, the elevator linkage was flexing, i glued the tube down a little better but the rod is accually moving around alittle in the tube,
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 07:59 AM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
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Champaign, IL
Joined Dec 2009
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Glad your maiden went okay, but those problems can be fixed. If you're noticing free play between the elevator pushrod and the inside of the guide tube, try going to a larger wire. The stock wire is 1mm which is like .039". Try K&S .047" music wire which is like 1.2mm:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYML2&P=7

You need to make the Z-bend on the end of the wire for the servo arm sharp and short. A good pair of Z-bend pliers is best, but you can also make one your self with pliers - I can show you how if you want.

Don't know why it wants to roll on you in turns. You're in a bank, wings verical or near vertical? And when applying elevator it wants to roll? Which way? Out of the turn or into the turn?

Yes, as jackosmeister says it may be an aft C.G. Where is the C.G. now? Try moving it to the forward location in the recommended range. Actually, when flying my Rifles with 1800 and larger batteries (even 2200) that puts the C.G. about 1/8" behind the leading edge (at the fuse) which is like 10% of the mean aerodynamic chord and it doesn't seem to mind at all.

Make sure your elevator linkage is free and precise. Check out the Tech Notice we posted (which will be included with future Rifles). It goes into detail about setting up the elevator:

http://manuals.hobbico.com/gpm/gpma1805-addendum.pdf

If you're landing in a normal grass field I'd forget about the skids. Have you read my landing tips in my blog? Go check it out.

When you get your Rifle flying a little more precisely and get more time on it and confidence, eventually you'll be flying it full-throttle the whole time and be looking for more Watts!!!

Best of luck!

Tim
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 09:40 AM
willfly4$
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United States, MS, Bay St Louis
Joined Apr 2005
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Its getting real close to late November which is when tower says they will be here, can't wait for these to be in stock!
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 10:25 AM
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Raleigh, NC
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Anyone tried this plane with the Ammo 24-33-3500 and say a 4.1x4.1 or 4.5x4.1?


I happen to have this motor that I've used in other planes. Wondering if it would be ok in this? I have used this motor on a funjet with a 4.75x4 prop and a 4.5x4.1. Now it's in a small 27" scratch built plane using a 4.7x4.2 prop. Seems to ok in this setup - only warm on landing (maybe because the motor has lots of cooling air being mounted kind of like a Stryker motor is).
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 11:54 AM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
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Champaign, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjbucher View Post
Anyone tried this plane with the Ammo 24-33-3500 and say a 4.1x4.1 or 4.5x4.1?


I happen to have this motor that I've used in other planes. Wondering if it would be ok in this? I have used this motor on a funjet with a 4.75x4 prop and a 4.5x4.1. Now it's in a small 27" scratch built plane using a 4.7x4.2 prop. Seems to ok in this setup - only warm on landing (maybe because the motor has lots of cooling air being mounted kind of like a Stryker motor is).
I bench-tested a few other 24mm Ammo motors back when, but I don't remember what was the result. I might (should) have it recorded somewhere at work. I'll see what I can find.

On the other hand, if you're running it now on those props sounds like it should be okay. You mentioned cooling though. You might want to cut the cooling holes in the nose, then you should reinforce between the holes with carbon fiber tape. You can look back in pasts posts to see the holes. I need to post a pdf of the template you can cut out and wrap around the nose for marking the holes for cutting.

What Amps do you get with that motor and the props? If you're over the motor's rating you won't be able to go full-throttle the whole time. Maybe you should do a little homework (with a Watt meter), or just go for it if you want to rely on what you've already run. I'm pretty sure you'll be drawing too much current with the 4.5 x 4.1, but maybe the 4.1 x 4.1 will be okay. It depends on what size battery you are using (capacity x C rating = Amps the battery can provide) because it will affect how much current the motor will put out.

Open the pdf in this post in my blog.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...56&postcount=8

You can see I ran a 3180 on a 4.1 x 4.1, but it was only about 215 Watts. Pretty weak. But with the higher kV of the 3500 it might work. It also depends on how much you want to go full-throttle.

I think you want to fly the Rifle (on 3S) at no less than 230 - 250 Watts.
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 12:48 PM
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Raleigh, NC
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I think on the 4.5x4.1 it may have been around 25-27 amps static.
The max amp rating is 25 amps on that motor. I'm guessing it must unload quite a bit since it never got hot. But the other planes I ran it in did have very good cooling. In the funjet where the cooling is not as good it did warm up to about 105 F.

May be worth a shot. If not I can always buy another one.

I was thinking of getting the rifle for Christmas.
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 01:45 PM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
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Champaign, IL
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With all the motors I've run there is a pretty consistent 32% drop in current in flight vs. static readings. You can go back to the pdf in my blog and compare the in-flight vs. the static for the motors I tested where I got in-flight data with the Eagle Tree.
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 03:14 PM
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Can you post the pdf template for the cooling vents?
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 04:09 PM
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 09:07 PM
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USA, FL, St Petersburg
Joined Dec 2003
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And when you get the flexing fixed, the roll you are seeing sounds like its a high speed stall due to too much elevator. You might want to reduce your elevator throw.....


Quote:
Originally Posted by Driggs View Post
i just check and your right, the elevator linkage was flexing, i glued the tube down a little better but the rod is accually moving around alittle in the tube,
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 10:03 PM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
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Champaign, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mexico View Post
Can you post the pdf template for the cooling vents?
Yea, I should get that out. I'll do it from work tomorrow.

Tim
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 10:05 PM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
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Champaign, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Driggs View Post
i got the manual addendum with my rifle , it said not to use the black painted wire use the other one , but my rifle only came with a none painted wire so i thought it was the right one, (is it the right one?) or do i have to go buy the bigger one? anyway, im pushing 350watts, its pretty fast, Dan
Nope. You got the right wire then. At the last minute they decided to take out the smaller, black wires referred to in the addendum (thus adding to the confusion).
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