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Old Jul 18, 2010, 08:37 PM
Permission to buzz the tower?
ds-fifty's Avatar
Adelaide, South Australia
Joined Nov 2007
95 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by HangGlide View Post
I keep throttle to about 1/4 to 1/3 on downwind. Then, I chop throttle, and make a wide, low bank, sweeping turn to final - just like we do in Hang Gliding. This way, you just keep sweeping/sliding the turn, keeping it out there and extending the base past final however much needed, when its time, just point it in and bring it home. Now, I land in half the field, and able to come to full stall before plopping it down.
Nice work, I am learning this as well. When it's closer to me at touch down, it's so much easier to land, because you can see the angle of attack better and hence the flare can be timed just right. The long sweeping turn is the key.
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Old Jul 18, 2010, 10:59 PM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
KRProton's Avatar
Champaign, IL
Joined Dec 2009
3,864 Posts
Cutting throttle way early on the down wind and starting the turn relatively low helps. This keeps the upwind turn to final and final approach closer, instead of having to come in from WAY out. Then, the wings are banked when the plane is closer to you and easier to see. Like ds-fifty said, this shortens the whole ordeal. Just keep holding, holding, holding (elevator) untill you run out the same time the plane touches down.
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Old Jul 18, 2010, 11:01 PM
What's that button do?
Shpook's Avatar
Hollywood, FL
Joined Feb 2008
1,347 Posts
Or you can just use the big bushy trees at the end of the field as an arrest net. (oops.)
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Old Jul 18, 2010, 11:29 PM
You down with EPP?
johnnyrocco123's Avatar
Houston, Tx
Joined May 2009
6,851 Posts
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Originally Posted by Shpook View Post
Or you can just use the big bushy trees at the end of the field as an arrest net. (oops.)
I almost did that with my Sunracer the other day. I was flying at a smaller field and I was rushed to land by the coordinators of a Fly-in.

Don't you love it when you are rushed to land a high performance Pylon?

Landed about three feet from bushes and a stream behind it.
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 12:06 AM
What's that button do?
Shpook's Avatar
Hollywood, FL
Joined Feb 2008
1,347 Posts
Yeah, I was being rushed by She Who Has Last Word. Rather than make another lap or two to bleed off speed, I tried to get it right down. I got it almost to the ground and realized it was way too fast to land, so went to bring it back up, and the bushes caught me. No damage to the plane, but I was pretty scratched up.
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 10:02 PM
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United States, NM, Albuquerque
Joined Jun 2007
1,172 Posts
Any place that has these in stock?
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Old Jul 23, 2010, 05:44 PM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
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Champaign, IL
Joined Dec 2009
3,864 Posts
Sadly, more than one poorly-executed hand-launch and an additional landing mis hap (a stalled model on the field caused me to land on the paved runway which then caused my Rifle to cartwheel as it snagged the transition up to the grass), has turned my Rifle into a jalopy and she is no longer pretty. And same as everybody else, I can’t get a new one right now because there are none in stock. So, I just have to keep this one going as long as I can. The flip side is that I have learned a few repair techniques that may allow you to keep your Rifles in the air too. The cartwheel split the nose along the seam with additional cracks between some of the cooling holes I cut. The fix was a few small sheets of 3/4-oz glass cloth and resin around the inside. A little sanding, primer and a coat of (mismatching) paint had her looking almost like new again—if not slightly heavier. Still air coupled with a hopefully temporary mental block in my launching technique caused the other crashes—two of them direct, nose-in impacts with the ground! To my astonishment, my nose repair has withstood all subsequent impacts! Instead, the injection-molded plastic wing fairing partially (mostly) detached from the top of the wing with a severe split along the top of the fuselage just ahead of the wing (not to mention various other chips/cracks in the glass work). The wing fairing was easily glued back down with a little thin CA. The crack in the fuselage was repaired with a piece of 1/32” ply inside. Somewhere down the line the horizontal stab saddle also cracked. That would have been an easy fix at the field—I removed the stab, then re mounted it with a small strip cut from a plastic bag in between (to keep from gluing the stab to the fuse). I then applied CA to the crack. Problem was, my accelerator was for foam-safe, so it didn’t catalyze the CA properly and I couldn’t get the crack to close up very well. The plastic protector was a good idea, but with the right kind of accelerator the repair would have come out better.

Yet another bad launch (another hard, nose-in impact!) caused the top of the fuse to split again with a pretty bad ‘crinkle’ at the front of the wing saddle. My nose repair still held, but more clamps, CA and some carbon tow and resin were required to make her structurally sound once again (and heavier still!).

Somewhere along the way I decided to check the lateral balance. In doing so, I noted that the left wing was heavy. The fix I came up with was to use a Dremel with a carbide cutter to cut a small hole in the right tip for adding lead shot. But when I used my can of compressed air to blow out the debris, it popped a portion of the bottom skin off the foam core. IDIOT! Hopefully, no one here will repeat this offense. For the fix, I used a small T-pin to perforate the bottom skin with a straightedge to keep the holes neatly aligned. Then, I added thin, foam safe CA in the holes. Before the CA hardens, quickly spray the area with a light mist of CA accelerator, then even more quickly lay a piece of plastic bag on top (so as not to glue your fingers to the wing!) and lightly press down to re bond the skin to the core. Any residual CA is removed with a cloth dampened with CA debonder. I used this same technique to repair another area on top of the wing damaged in another crash. Many flights later all this has held. Next time I add weight to a wing tip I’ll cut a clean slot through the bottom skin with a razor saw, add the shot, then fill/seal with epoxy.

Well, there’s my story. I think I’ve got my hand-launching technique back. Sure, it’s best to have an assistant do the launch, but is often not possible. The most critical thing is to keep the wings level, or as level as you can. For me, it helps to look up and focus on the model during the toss—never take your eyes off it. Second, give it a pretty good toss, but not so hard as to loose your coordination. Third, don’t throw it at too high of an angle—no more than 30-degrees (or maybe a little less) I’d say. Finally, if you feel a little nervous about hand-launching, wait for a day when there is some wind—five to ten mph is great! Of course, a heavy plane from subsequent repairs doesn’t help either (currently, my Rifle weights 19.1 oz. with a 1500mAh battery).
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Last edited by KRProton; Jul 23, 2010 at 11:45 PM.
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Old Jul 23, 2010, 05:48 PM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
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Champaign, IL
Joined Dec 2009
3,864 Posts
Here are more pics from the same story...
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Old Jul 23, 2010, 10:45 PM
You down with EPP?
johnnyrocco123's Avatar
Houston, Tx
Joined May 2009
6,851 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by KRProton View Post
Here are more pics from the same story...
I like your methods of saving room. Every pylon plane is very tight.

I wish we could all cut fiberglass and make it look that good (enlarging vent hole).
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Old Jul 23, 2010, 11:40 PM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
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Champaign, IL
Joined Dec 2009
3,864 Posts
I made templates from ABS and paper to draw the new outline for the larger hole (and the cooling slots in the nose). Maybe I should have them made into a PDF so I can post them so anyone interested can print them out. You also have to start with a carbide cutter and finish with small, rounded files and sandpaper.

I had to move the servo and relocate the receiver when we were messin' with the Eagle Tree (onboard data).
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Old Jul 23, 2010, 11:43 PM
You down with EPP?
johnnyrocco123's Avatar
Houston, Tx
Joined May 2009
6,851 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by KRProton View Post
I made templates from ABS and paper to draw the new outline for the larger hole (and the cooling slots in the nose). Maybe I should have them made into a PDF so I can post them so anyone interested can print them out. You also have to start with a carbide cutter and finish with small, rounded files and sandpaper.
Yeah, I'm not that great a cutter.

If I can't use files, sand paper, drills, or dremels.....I'm out of options.
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Old Jul 24, 2010, 10:03 PM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
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Champaign, IL
Joined Dec 2009
3,864 Posts
Well, this video just about isn't worth posting. I know it's virtually impossible to capture these things on video, and I've seen lots of bad videos, but this one's probably the worst-sorry. Thanks just the same to my step-daughter Vivian for trying, but it's just a digital camera. At least you can hear the motor and get a glimps or two. It was a full, four-minute flight, but we cut out the first couple of minutes becuse there was REALLY NOTHING to see. And it looked a lot better before being compressed for posting. Notice the animal standing out in the field about 50' away. That's a hawk. On my final landing (2nd attempt) I cruised right over its head. Didn't know I was that close. Sorry Mr. Hawk.

Rifle Flight (2 min 43 sec)
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Last edited by KRProton; Jul 25, 2010 at 08:31 AM.
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Old Jul 24, 2010, 11:00 PM
KK6MQJ
Bajora's Avatar
Joined Sep 2004
13,745 Posts
Kudos to Vivian for even trying Tim! And she did pretty good IMO. The Rifle is one of the most planes I have ever tried to get on video. I think I spotted a rainbow in one quick shot too?

That thing is RIPPING!
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Old Jul 26, 2010, 03:46 PM
Indy3D flyer
westside of Indianapolis IN
Joined Jan 2003
249 Posts
I read about the first 8 pages of this thread and the last two or three. I really don't want to read all 65 pages. I am thinking of picking one up tomorrow at LHS. Can anyone do a overview of the current status on this plane? Alternative motors, servos required etc, needed mods to the airframe? Suggested motors are BO'd at Tower. They say late August which I read as maybe end of the year. I have an old Himax 2025-3000ish KV that might push it decent and I have an old 3 Turn Warp 4 but it's quite a bit bigger than 24mm I think, and it's only 2700KV.

how about a quick recap?

Thanks, Matt
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Old Jul 26, 2010, 04:07 PM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
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Champaign, IL
Joined Dec 2009
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Hi Matt.

I'll try this from home tonight. I'll try to be as objective as possible.

I'm sure other's will chime in with their thoughts/experiences as well.

Tim
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