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Old Mar 16, 2012, 10:35 AM
WHAT THE...
barmonkey's Avatar
Evansville, Indiana
Joined Jan 2005
1,576 Posts
One thing I failed to mention earlier is that the sheet lines cut into the stock top hat about one inch on either side. One solution to prevent this that I have seen is to glue some washers to the top hat where the lines exit and/or the addition of some fixed guides for the lines.

Preliminary testing shows promise. I have repeatedly ran the servo from stop to stop...there was definitely some resistance when I tried to pull the lines out since it was all bunched up inside. With the same test, the stock top hat let the lines come out of the bottom and really got tangled up. I am not going to say this will eliminate any chance of the line fouling inside the spool...but it certainly will be better than stock.

As far as fouling inside the hull, I didn't notice any sign than the jib lines were hanging on anything. The main sheet lines were definitely fouling in a few different ways. First, was in the spool and Second was on the thimbles attached to the deck on either side of the hatch. The other place is going to be around the rudder servo horn. As I mentioned earlier, removing the extra arms on the servo horn may help some. One solution I have seen is to use a plastic drinking straw as a guide.

At any rate, I have obviously done some research on these boats and am aware of the issues that people have had with them (and the Voyager II and sisters). My goal from the beginning was to get the Phantom to sail without spending a lot of money in the process. So far, I haven't spent a dime on anything.
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Last edited by barmonkey; Mar 16, 2012 at 10:42 AM.
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 01:34 AM
Whitby, ON, Canada
Joined Apr 2011
25 Posts
Just my 2 cents worth, if anyone is interested; I have been using the Phantom's stock winch from day one with no problems but only because I was very mindful not to let it out unless there was tension in the line (wind in the sails).

I also kept the original winch lines after realizing that they had to be a certain thichness. That thickness has to be more than the gap between the winch spool and the cover to prevent it from slipping between if the line got slack. Someone mentioned 1mm line thickness, I would say that is correct.
My advice to anyone who plans to continue using this original system: It is very important to inspect the line regularly for wear and replace it when starts to get close to the gap thickness.

I have since redesigned my system for a more trouble free tensioned system. The only way this system would fail is if the tensioner line broke. It also uses only one line coming off the spool and since it is under constant tension, I am able to use a thinner braided line with no fear of it dropping off of the spool.

I will not go in to the build details in this post but will be more than happy to answer any questions if anyone is interested in doing this modification for themself.... here it is:

Phantom RC Sailboat - Winch System - Modified (1 min 24 sec)
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 04:35 PM
jrb
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Edina, MN, USA
Joined Oct 1999
11,445 Posts
Thanks Wood!

Filled to the max w/#8 lead shot; bulb & shot = 3# 11.5oz (1.6868Kg).

All but 2/3 film can of the 4# bought from Scuba store for $16.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 12:02 AM
Whitby, ON, Canada
Joined Apr 2011
25 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrb View Post
Thanks Wood!

Filled to the max w/#8 lead shot; bulb & shot = 3# 11.5oz (1.6868Kg).

All but 2/3 film can of the 4# bought from Scuba store for $16.
jrb, you may still be able to get a bit more in there but you will have to keep poking it in with the blunt end of a pencil. I was able to get up to 1789 grams Bulb & shot, then after that I poured in warmed up epoxy resin (no hardener) this takes a bit of time but it's worth it, I was able to reach a final weight of 1853 grams total.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 07:07 AM
They Call him Dead!
YellowJacketsRC's Avatar
United States, SC, Pawleys Island
Joined Jul 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodbark View Post
jrb, you may still be able to get a bit more in there but you will have to keep poking it in with the blunt end of a pencil. I was able to get up to 1789 grams Bulb & shot, then after that I poured in warmed up epoxy resin (no hardener) this takes a bit of time but it's worth it, I was able to reach a final weight of 1853 grams total.
Good idea about the resin.... What about just using water? Would take less time....
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 09:28 AM
Whitby, ON, Canada
Joined Apr 2011
25 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dead View Post
Good idea about the resin.... What about just using water? Would take less time....
>dead, I guess anything that won't react with the lead would do fine, if using water I would go with distilled water for sure
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 09:56 AM
jrb
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Edina, MN, USA
Joined Oct 1999
11,445 Posts
Guess I was fibbed to : http://www.scubatoys.com/store/detai...D=Softweights4 .

Was told it was #8 by the local shop; web say #4 -- no wonder I came a little lighter than I had projected.

No worries; don't plan to sail in high winds and don't really want to have too much ballast.

The film can has about 4.8oz of shot in it; the blue bag weighs about 0.5oz -- 63.5oz of shot total.


Only sealed with tape; no glue planned.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 01:33 PM
jrb
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Edina, MN, USA
Joined Oct 1999
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Anybody know the specs for the winch servo -- whose is it?
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 02:26 PM
WHAT THE...
barmonkey's Avatar
Evansville, Indiana
Joined Jan 2005
1,576 Posts
It is an EXI B1226 152.8 oz torque on 6V...dimensions are 58x28x52mm.

Hobbypartz sells them for $11.70 http://www.hobbypartz.com/12exiseb1.html

Tower has an ACE 2811HQ for $24.99 which I believe is the same just rebranded servo.

I just received a SOLAR A105 servo from Hobbypartz ($18.60). It has the same dimensions as the stock winch servo, but has metal gears and 208 oz of torque at 6V. I actually got this for another project. However if the stock winch gives me too much more trouble I will use it in a dual arm set up.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 02:44 PM
WHAT THE...
barmonkey's Avatar
Evansville, Indiana
Joined Jan 2005
1,576 Posts
BTW, I did have a chance to sail this morning and the winch mod seems to be working a bit better and more reliable that my experience with the stock top hat. The Main Boom is getting hung up still...which I will attribute to the extra arms on the rudder servo. I think by removing them and running the sheet line through a plastic drinking straw should eliminate the issue.

Also, I haven't sourced any shot for the keel bulb...still holding out for a FREEBIE! So the Phantom is equipped with the China Teams keel. It appears to be working just fine.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 06:02 PM
jrb
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Edina, MN, USA
Joined Oct 1999
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Thanks bar!

With a dumb TX mine does 4.5 turns; not sure what specs you listed seem to be like it?
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 06:09 PM
road wart
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United States, CT, Stonington
Joined Aug 2003
2,911 Posts
mine does 3....the last half turn slowly with the throttle pulled back....not sure whats up
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 06:09 PM
WHAT THE...
barmonkey's Avatar
Evansville, Indiana
Joined Jan 2005
1,576 Posts
I haven't seen any specs on the number of turns the B1226 has. The only thing I know is that it allows the sails to be let out too far. So far that the jib can actually travel more than 180 degrees! Probably not a good idea to let the jib swing out in front of the boat...I ended up reducing the outhaul endpoint with my computer radio to about 50%
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 08:08 PM
road wart
racie34's Avatar
United States, CT, Stonington
Joined Aug 2003
2,911 Posts
mine allows the line to travel out 12 3/4 inches....thats probably too far so yes...end point adjustments will be needed.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 09:38 PM
Whitby, ON, Canada
Joined Apr 2011
25 Posts
JUST A HEADS UP GUYS, if you haven't already figured it out....

The Sheet in position is the most critical, make sure your booms are still out 10 to 15 degrees when fully sheeted in, otherwise that servo will rip that boom right out of it's socket, unless of course, the line breaks first
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