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Old Dec 15, 2012, 04:30 PM
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Kilsyth, Victoria, Australia
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Maynardr6,
Australia/US dollars is not enough of a difference to concern us.

Everything is, I suppose, in the eye (or mind) of the beholder. Why buy a Mercedes rather than a Hyundai? I realise that is a bit over simplistic but things can head in that direction. Over quite a few years in electric I have always chosen to try purchasing what I believe to be the best product I can. This is my hobby (obsession?) so why not?

Generally when quite a few motors and ESCs were actually designed and manufactured in Europe they really were consistent and totally reliable as far as I was concerned. Things changed as some manufacturers had to have their products produced in China to make them competitive. Certainly, numerous ESCs made in China nowadays are absolutely first rate but they also then make others that are built down to the very lowest price. I have seen some of those fail almost within the first time of use. So, you can only purchase what you believe is important to you whether the product is good, bad or indifferent.

As for the very high priced ESCs remember that some are aimed specifically for high power useage. Sometimes competition power set ups are drawing well in excess of 250 amps. That being the case if I were into competition I would not risk an unknown product. As I'm merely a fun flier and as this thread hinges around the Blaze or Dynamic which are only fun foamies I'm not faced with the question.
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 07:01 PM
Soaring Fanatic!
Joined Dec 2008
781 Posts
More on ESCs....

I'll back David H. up on this for the most part. I used to pay a hefty price for ESCs that were made in EU/USA which were superior to what was coming out of Asia at the time, but then ARFs and RTFs appeared and price wars began. Now, I'm pretty happy with several of the ESCs coming out of Asia; such as the ones from R2 Hobbies (although some are without BEC) and the Hobbywing ones as well.

Originally, I set aside a 60amp Funfly ESC for the Blaze, but found it to a little too big and heavy for the correct CG. So I've swapped it for a 40a from an EDF. Due to the tolerances of this ship, I'm hoping 40a will be adequate.

Left Coast DJ: I've got a BH Models Sonic awaiting build too. A great deal for the price and comes with a case too! The next step after the Sonic is a Wilco Hotliner (http://www.espritmodel.com/wilco-f5b-hotliner-arf.aspx) of which folks on RCG convinced me to keep instead of sell

Happy Soaring Everyone,

-8th
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 07:55 PM
Faster is Better
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United States, AZ, Gilbert
Joined Jul 2012
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I hear you all, and agree with the philosophy of buying reliable quality gear to protect the overall investment.

For now, my D-S has me pretty excited... and it fits that other golden rule -- the one about only flying what you can afford to lose.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 02:00 AM
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Joined Dec 2008
781 Posts
Finally got a break and maidened the Blaze.
Used an 1850mah 3S batt balanced at the recommended CG point, but she goes vertical every time throttle exceeds 25%! (Winds blowing at about 4-6 knots)

Some down trim was added, but still the same result...vertical at 30% throttle.
Has anyone else had this problem and made a down-elev/throttle mix?

Off power glide is smooth, straight and predictable however
The fuse is reinforced lengthwise with 3mm strips of carbon+UHU Por on top and bottom seam lines and the result is just slightly less rigid than than some of my typical fiberglass ships. There's still a lot of V-Tail wiggle at full throttle, but that didn't seem to affect flight at all.

-8th
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 04:40 AM
A geriatric flier
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Australia, NSW, Braidwood
Joined Nov 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynardr6 View Post
Are those Australian dollars? I put a pretty nice 600 together recently for like $400 with all digital servo. If it's US dollars, what is the benefit of spending $400 on just the ESC?! What do I get for my extra $350 dollars?
The best answer I can give is to go and talk to the guys at your local heli club. There are about 20 pilots flying helis at my club and regardless of ability not one will be flying HK (I presume) helis or equipment. No disrespect but I really do not want to get into a discussion on what constitutes the better ESC or any other part of a heli. Its a fruitless exercise.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 05:39 PM
Lou
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United States, VA, Waynesboro
Joined Dec 2005
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ESC are always a sticky and tricky subject. All brands of ESC will fail under the correct circumstances. The greater the demand made on the motor, especially the type of demand made by helicopters, the quality of the motor and the quality of the battery, determine just how much you want to spend on an ESC.

Parkzone have had their fair share of out of the box, first flight failure on PNP planes that contained Eflite ESC, as have others. The Blaze was no exception to this, but who made the ESC is unknown, I suppose.

My experience has been that the PNP style planes that are mass produced on a tight schedule and budget are also getting ESC that were produced in the same manner. I suppose the fail rate could be higher in that case. On the other hand, I have used Asian ESC, bought off the shelf that have held of quite well. Most of the old guys at my field use Asian ESC, due to retirement budgets.

For putzing around the field on the average plane with fun flying I can get away with an inexpensive Asian ESC. When the expensive, fast stuff go up, it has an ESC that will carry the demand. Which usually means a more expensive ESC. Regardless of wheter you have a Blaze or a $1400 plane, you should always have a separate BEC in that aircraft. Matters not then what the ESC does as you will still have power to your receiver and servos.

Everyones mileage will vary on ESC, no doubt.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 08:14 PM
A geriatric flier
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Australia, NSW, Braidwood
Joined Nov 2008
885 Posts
I do not disagree with what anyone is saying about equipment but...a failure can have dire consequences which could mean injury and even worse death. An ESC, motor or battery going up in smoke could start a grass fire at your flying field especially if it the field is like mine, where the grass is s foot high and tinder dry in summer. If you did a risk assessment matrix on the likelyhood of these thing happening I would put a piece of properly quality controlled built equipment on the good side of the matrix. I still will put cheaper equipment on planks but try to make sure they are not stressed.
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Old Dec 30, 2012, 12:04 PM
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United States, MO, Fenton
Joined Jan 2012
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Hello Blaze/Dynamic/etc owners. I have been a Blaze owner for almost a couple of months now. I have only been able to fly it a handful of times because the first flight after my maiden ended in calamity when I lost contact due a bad tx module. I have read through this entire thread and appreciate the many useful tips that have made flying a success.

I chose the Blaze over the Dynamic because Tower offers a better deal and I have had great service and delivery time from them. Unfortunately they don't stock replacement parts so I had to order a replacement fuse from HK.
The only mod that I have done is to ad reinforcement horizontal stab. I may do some work on the ailerons as well. Mine also needs left trim to fly level. I have noticed that it seems worse under a lot of power so I assume that prop torque is affecting it. It needs to be laterally balanced too so I think that and a mix will help cure it.
I am new to gliders and have never been able to thermal or fly from lift alone until last Thursday when I re-maidened this craft. We had pretty good winds that day that were generating lift against a hill and tree line. I must say that it is quite a rush to see the plane lift with no power. I have been flying it for about 15 minutes with either a 15 or 1800mah battery. I still have voltage levels in the high 3.8's when I return. Very impressed by this.
Overall I think it is a nice plane for the money and enjoy having a plane to fly through the windy winter months. Good luck to all and Happy Flying!
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 11:05 PM
"ya can't get hurt in the air"
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United States, NY, Cazenovia
Joined Oct 2009
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I'll second that...it is a great winter plane.
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 08:25 PM
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United States, ND, Fargo
Joined Aug 2007
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Hey all, just a small update from this corner of the world. As you may or may not remember I was working on painting my blaze for better visability (white plane against white ground, grey trees, and grey sky, not to mention grey houses = no fun) and with the holiday it's been slow.

1 step forward, 2 steps back, I'm getting very frustrated as the putting down several coats of polycrylic before spraying did in fact prevent any deteriorating effect on the foam, and would work great for a solid color, but any attempt to mask areas for the contrasting stripes results in the paint, polycrylic, and everything coming right up with the tape, even with 3m low tack tape for delicate surfaces.

In fact the last time i tried painting which was yesterday, I didn't notice that my masking removal had pulled up all of the poly coating from the area and so when I sprayed the black for the tip, it ate into the foam pretty good. Not too much damage but im still waiting for it to harden or become less tacky so I can sand it back down and get some lightweight filler on it.

I could just go with a solid orange but I really want the wing and tail bottoms black and I want the constrasting color tips. I HATE COMPROMISING.

The fuselage which is solid orange did turn out pretty well, or so I thought until I tried a little tape on an inconspicuous area and low and behold the paint came right off. So frustrating. Im toying with a few ideas now. I'm pretty much resigned to stripping off the paint again (using tape ironically) and sanding back to bare foam.

I may try covering with tissue and the poly as i've seen mentioned in several threads then painting again but I'm worried I'll have the same adhesion problems and the masking with take the tissue and poly right up with it. Nothing seems to make a good mechanical bond with this foam.

I could try it with thinned epoxy but that seems like it would be very heavy.

My other options are colored packing tape and good old film covering (something low temp like tower kote). I don't like those ideas because of the price per roll/shipping cost ratio for the tape, and the fact that I don't have a sealing iron for the film, not to mention i've already got at least $30 into this paint and polyacrylic venture. Frustrated. Suggestions?
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 08:42 PM
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United States, MO, Fenton
Joined Jan 2012
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John I noticed the same thing with the polycrylic. It doesn't stick in the least on this foam. I ended up trying Krylon Fusion and it is awesome on this foam. Sticks very well and absolutley no puff. Note I have only used the clear.
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 09:54 PM
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
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+1 for Krylon Fusion on foam.
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 10:29 PM
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United States, ND, Fargo
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ok cool, the orange that im using is krylon fusion. ill just strip and sand it down to bare foam again and have another go with the black being krylon fusion as well (I cheaped out and used regular spray for the black)
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 10:36 PM
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Just a note. Always try it in an inconspicuous area. I just finished a Multiplex Xeno and that clear puffed the foam a little. It also seems to puff z foam. If you go light with the coats it isn't too bad but you sacrafice appearance and most probably adhesion. I was able to slick out St's foam with this model whithout a hint of puff. Very pleased.
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 11:14 PM
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Australia, NSW, Braidwood
Joined Nov 2008
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Just out of interest Multiplex do have a range of paints for Elapor which might also be the answer.

http://www.multiplex-rc.de/en/produc...wshopitems_pi1[action]=index&tx_lwshopitems_pi1[controller]=Product&cHash=bacee6a36fe3461784465e6168f68451
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