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Old Oct 25, 2012, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Gerry__ View Post
M3.0x22
They are M4 on the Dynamic-S, not M3. I would have expected the Blaze to be the same.

You can get away with shorter on the front (17-19mm) and it helps avoid damage to your LiPo as you slide it in from the front.
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 08:02 AM
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You might want to consider nylon fasteners too. They'll shear off in a crash w/o so much tendency to tear up your foam.
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by maca55 View Post
They are M4 on the Dynamic-S, not M3. I would have expected the Blaze to be the same.

.
I quoted from the manual.
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
You might want to consider nylon fasteners too. They'll shear off in a crash w/o so much tendency to tear up your foam.
Hmmmm.. funny you mention that. I experienced the 'tear up' today at a slope trying to land in a 30 knot cross wind. It came down rather hard and the guts were literally ripped out as the wings spun round. I will upload a link to the action soon.
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 11:30 AM
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Ya...it's an unfortunate nature of the beast with gliders & their long wings. You see 'em upstairs with all their grace & beauty, & don't think about how ya better not get close to the ground with wings anything but level, or things can get ugly real quick! And it's surprising how much a seemingly minor li'l cartwheel can tear up! A lesson learned the hard way, for me!
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 02:49 AM
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Can anyone please tell me the difference between Blaze and Dynamic-S ?

Thanks
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by sookainian View Post
Can anyone please tell me the difference between Blaze and Dynamic-S ?

Thanks
I doubt if anyone here owns both to be able to thoroughly compare, but they seem almost identical.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 04:21 AM
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Blizzard > Blaze > Dynamic-S it appears to be a cloning evolution. The Dynamic-S is the cheapest and is hard to fault(apart from that turn left thing) so I don't see any reason why you choose the more expensive option unless the cheaper one was flawed in some way. I tossed my Dynamic-S up into a 40kmh southerly again this morning and had a great time. At one point I had it powered off into the wind and it just hovered moving backwards looking kind of strange.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 05:02 AM
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Goin' by my notes, the only diffs besides the decalry are:
Blaze Dyn-S
Motor: 3520 - 1130Kv 35xx - 820Kv
Prop: 10x6 Folder 12x6.5 Folder
The plastic plate that covers the V-Tail servos is different, or not present on the 'S'.
Price: $129.99 w/Free Ship (Tower) vs $118.34 + $43.33 Shipping* from Hobbit Kong USA Warehouse.
*And this bullcrap stunt of theirs cost them ANY future airplane business from me.
Phoenix 2000 from Same warehouse, bigger box, weighs 1 kilo more; shipping was $17. I even contacted their "customer service" about the obvious error, and they told me I was wrong. I showed them the invoice.....and whattaya know - suddenly my messages started bouncing.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 08:06 AM
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Anyone notice the tail mounting is slightly different ? the dymanic-s one seems like bolt on. But the Blazz like no mount ?
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by sookainian View Post
Anyone notice the tail mounting is slightly different ? the dymanic-s one seems like bolt on. But the Blazz like no mount ?
Well, that's kind've why I said .............
Oh, never mind.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
Price: $129.99 w/Free Ship (Tower) vs $118.34 + $43.33 Shipping* from Hobbit Kong USA Warehouse.
We have the same issue getting stuff from the US to OZ, or even from the UK to OZ. Hobbyking is the cheapest postal option for down under as far as I know.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 03:37 PM
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Just got gifted enough parts to put one of these together. Motor was loose. While putting it in I realized there is a high probability of the outrnner cage rubbing the wires to the ESC.

Am I just putting it in wrong? Or did I miss this as an issue.

Any photos of your motor and wiring installs is appreciated!
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by UlteriorModem View Post
Just got gifted enough parts to put one of these together. Motor was loose. While putting it in I realized there is a high probability of the outrnner cage rubbing the wires to the ESC.

Am I just putting it in wrong? Or did I miss this as an issue.

Any photos of your motor and wiring installs is appreciated!
Rotate your outrunner in its mount to a position so the wires come out at around 4-5 oclock should give you plenty of clearance. They rub if you mount the wiring at 6 oclock.

Mick
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 07:20 PM
Lou
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UlteriorModem View Post
Just got gifted enough parts to put one of these together. Motor was loose. While putting it in I realized there is a high probability of the outrnner cage rubbing the wires to the ESC.

Am I just putting it in wrong? Or did I miss this as an issue.

Any photos of your motor and wiring installs is appreciated!
I really hate it when I get 'gifted' with crap. I would just assume they gave me junk.

None the less, something sounds fishy with your setup. There should be a wooden mounting tray just behind the motor. The motor gets mounted with the three wires coming out a about 5 o'clock. The wires then move along the right side of the fuse and come thru the horizontal slot/opening in the wood tray. This pins the wires between the wood tray and the interior side of the fuse.

If that won't work, then you could mount at 6 o'clock and pull the wires straight back and up thru the ciruclar opening in the tray. If you take this path, you will still need to hot glue/tape/something the wires to interior bottom of the fuse. White/clear silicon can also be used, works great to keep the plastic nose cone on.
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Last edited by Lou; Feb 16, 2014 at 08:09 AM.
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