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Old Aug 16, 2012, 07:53 AM
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The Good Wife/Moms old bed sheets etc work for me in as rash proofing and dust covers.
But I have another problem: I "Landed" my Blaze nose down on asphalt the other day and broke the motor shaft etc. The Cir-clip holding the front bearing is a real problem because its slot effectively reduces the shaft size and concentrates all force of a crash
So I have dismantled the shaft. While pounding out the shaft I found there is a small set screw for it in between the ribs of the bell housing. However when I was installing a new shaft I found the inner race of the ball bearings have a lot of radial slop against the shaft. They seem to be a slight bit above 4 mm inner diameter. So I am off to find new bearings as well. Now comes the question for you guys. Have you experienced the same thing and fixed it? Alternatively have any of you found a good replacement motor. (in case I get tired of fixing this one.)
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Old Aug 16, 2012, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 8thelephant View Post
Come to think of it, I think mine came from Lowes too since HD doesn't always stock it in store.
I've made bags for 4 large gliders already and still have more than 50% of the roll left.
Making bags was a consideration for me too, but the amount of labor it takes (even though I'm using a sewing machine) exceeds what I could ever charge for them.

You may also consider lining them with some thin felt or soft fabric as others have done; to keep the plastic from sticking, especially if covering the EPO with NewStuff or any other plastic covering.

For my composite ships, I still prefer case though.
My 'problem' if it can be called that, stems mostly from the size (length) of the wings in transport. Between size & crowded conditions having to pile one on another when I have 2-3 planes in the back of my ol' Blazer; even tho it's an SUV there's only so much space they can fit into. The most potential for damage comes from the exposed control arms & horns & pushrods rubbing, scraping on each other. Best solution I can think of is to isolate 'em in some kinda lite packing which is thicker'n the protrusions in play -- ie bags.

Hopefully I won't have to add lining - but I'll experiment for plastics compatibility (plasticizer migration) & thanks for that reminder. Anything besides the bare essentials just makes 'em all that more expensive. Besides requiriing more in-depth assembly -- you've got sewing -- but I was planning on the KISS principle & that All American Engineering Marvel, good ol' duct tape, (hat off & bows toward Red Green) & some nylon anchor-rope handles, with a couple patches of velcro for closures. A cloth liiner adds not only expense but loads of trouble to the assembly formula....and I got enough trouble without any new ones!

I'd bought some chrome-looking duct tape to trim a home-made foamy then realized it'd not only reflect pretty lights but radio signals as well, a practice generally frowned upon by the R/C community. So rather'n it go to waste, it's now available for wing bagging. Should also help keep any stray radio waves from harming the foam wings too -- one just can't be too safe when it comes to these kinda things!
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 12:18 PM
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Eastern Norway Scandinavia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trondareo View Post
The Good Wife/Moms old bed sheets etc work for me in as rash proofing and dust covers.
But I have another problem: I "Landed" my Blaze nose down on asphalt the other day and broke the motor shaft etc. The Cir-clip holding the front bearing is a real problem because its slot effectively reduces the shaft size and concentrates all force of a crash
So I have dismantled the shaft. While pounding out the shaft I found there is a small set screw for it in between the ribs of the bell housing. However when I was installing a new shaft I found the inner race of the ball bearings have a lot of radial slop against the shaft. They seem to be a slight bit above 4 mm inner diameter. So I am off to find new bearings as well. Now comes the question for you guys. Have you experienced the same thing and fixed it? Alternatively have any of you found a good replacement motor. (in case I get tired of fixing this one.)
It's easy to find a replacement motor. After a quick search I found this: http://www.rcmodelcentre.co.uk/st-mo...p/cat_489.html

It's a low price too, so I had changed it. I don't know where you live, Google is your friend here.
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by trondareo View Post
...(in case I get tired of fixing this one.)
"Tired of fixing"?!? Any motor you can fix multiple times is a keeper in my stable!


Quote:
...I "Landed" my Blaze nose down on asphalt the other day ...
Overheard at the airfield:
"Anybody can do Touch-'n'-Go's. That was a Touch-'n'-Stay."

+1 for Style.
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 05:34 AM
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 11:42 AM
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Another Blaze ESC failure...

Allllmost lost the bird. Lost power 9 minutes into flight while doing acro. Still had flight controls. Landed within 20 seconds... smoke from canopy... bec failed seconds after landing. ESC so hot all solder connections came loose on battery and motor leads

Battery and fuselage are fine (I had the esc out in jig time -- the fact that the leads all detached themselves helped). I have several hours of flight time on the bird, wasn't flying it any differently than usual this time out. I usually get 12 - 14 minutes out of a 2200 pack when doing a mix of power on / power off acro. I always check battery, motor & esc after flight and up til now have never had anything get more than warm to the touch.

So... ah... be careful out there. Replacing with 45a esc. really don't like the idea of Blaze as unguided missile.
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by SoarVT View Post
Another Blaze ESC failure...

Allllmost lost the bird. Lost power 9 minutes into flight while doing acro. Still had flight controls. Landed within 20 seconds... smoke from canopy... bec failed seconds after landing. ESC so hot all solder connections came loose on battery and motor leads
.
Wow, and WHEW, dude! Close call there - very glad to hear there was a happy ending!

Here's something to consider, guys. When we have this bird (& others too) up there & putting it thru its paces, once you get ready to land there's inevitably a slow-down period prior to, & while making the landing. That's cooling down time too! So, unless your rig is well cooled & nothing bad's happening, or it's severly overheating already & holding that until you've got it down & touching it, you have only a vague idea of what's really happening inside, 'up there'. Simply put, that's one reason why I love having my EagleTree flight data recorder with its 3 temperature inputs. I can see, second by second, in flight, what happened.
I get almost as much fun analyzing all the inflight data as I do flying it!
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 11:30 PM
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Board's a mite slow so, will share the latest thoughts on the soft flaps. I just recently read/heard of something that was basically new to me - tho I have long known about other forms of it. It might well be old hat especially to some of you old timers. Skinning -- as in the old tissue or silkspan & dope kind of covering. More specifically, in this case, using newsprint.

I've been considering adding 'planking' to the flaps to stiffen them up before covering with the New Stuff laminate. Planks made from hardened extra-thin balsa.....but that in itself presents certain problems that might require drastic alterations if it didn't go smoothly, so brought hesitancy.

One guy who watched the test flight video suggested skinning with the newsprint & dope, saying that'd stiffen them plenty well. One drawback to the newsprint is the end product is pretty heavy. Then I read from another guy that he'd used the newsprint-type paper used in telephone books - essentially the same material but like, half the thickness. Mmmm-HMMM!

Sooo....that's where we're at. My focus lately has been on getting the Minimoa dialed in, & the nice sailplane-version Tx I picked up recently should be a good tool towards that end. I'm near the point where I'll be getting back on the Blaze soon, & it'll just be a matter of having the time to devote to that project. Will keep y'all posted on progress as it occurs, but thought I'd go ahead & share the info in case any others might wanta give it a try.

Meanwhile, ....
Clear Skies!
(& OH could we use some!)
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Old Aug 22, 2012, 03:23 AM
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Soar: Good to hear you didn't suffer any fuselage damage when the ESC burned up and you were able to put the plane down safely. I have had no problem running a Turnigy Plush 40A ESC. I run about the same 12 minute flight times with power climb and motor off acro and the ESC is barely warm to the touch.

I have been eyeing the 10x7 aeronaut prop and turbo spinner as an upgrade. Is there a noticeable difference with this setup over stock? Any difference in flight times?
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Old Aug 22, 2012, 05:17 AM
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Hi JT;
While investigating the reported 'clone' Blaze as an alternative to the Dynamic-S after HK tried to rip me off with the customs charge from the USA Warehouse (making theirs near $200 smackeroos in costs) I found the 'other' Blaze thread which ran briefly, where I read "One of the best mods you can do is swap out the stock ESC for a 40A one and put on Aeronaut 10x7 folding props. Truly unlimited vertical."

By the time I maidened the Blaze I'd added that very combination with the carbon blades, knowing from past experience they add significantly just thru their operational efficiency. Thus I never flew the supplied blades so I can't give you any direct comparison.

All I'll say is, you & everyone here knows the problems I'm having becuz the darn thing flies too fast.
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 02:48 AM
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Norway, Sor-Trondelag, Trondheim
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Sorry for the slow follow up on my post. And thank you ArneHu for links to the exchange motor. I'm in Norway too!
I would not buy a new Blaze motor tho because of the stress concentration at the circlip slot. Other motors have a pressed on collet or set screw collet to keep the front bearing in place. So I was asking for alternative replacement motors to the original.

Exchanging the motor axle turned out well once I found a nice stainless 4 mm axle that was actually 4 mm. To install, I filed a flat for the set screw on the bell housing into the axle. Pounded the axle in place with a rubber hammer, and lock tited the set screw in place. The problem is finding or making a collet. I'm working on that now, and will report back when I find a nice sollution.

I am looking forward to doing touch and go's in the future

Quote:
Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
"Tired of fixing"?!? Any motor you can fix multiple times is a keeper in my stable!




Overheard at the airfield:
"Anybody can do Touch-'n'-Go's. That was a Touch-'n'-Stay."

+1 for Style.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 11:37 PM
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Was watching one of those 'Pro Performance' videos on one of those $3000 type hotliners, where they're talking about setting up & trimming out the plane, and lo & behold one of the bugaboos seems to be sudden unexpected peeloffs from intended flightpath. Here the culprit is control surfaces just being overwhelmed by the output power of the motor combined with torque effects from large-ish props.

Hmmmm....sound familiar -- a la our 'Port Divers Club' mentioned previously in this thread? Their suggested solution is to mix in a touch of opposite rudder with the throttle.

I'd thought maybe ailerons, but not wanting to go there since it involves air resistance (drag), plus, we've got problems with those 'standing up to the job' (literally!) also. But rudder does make sense, considering the angular moment advantage being back there on the tail would provide - ie it would only take minute amounts, it seems. Too, there's the factor of V-Tail vs std too we're dealing with.

But the 'li'l light bulb' that came on was, seeing as how some have this 'dive off' problem & others don't, makes me wonder if minute differences in the way our V-Tails are set up during construction could be the real root cause?

I would suggest a couple things for the "Full Left Trim Club" http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=636 (Decided to look it up *LOL*) introduced by Maca55.
1- Take a very close look at your ruddervator alignment at center or neutral stick settings - make sure they are precisely centered.
2- Get up to a couple "OS" altitudes, and take a speed run. If she 'dives off' add just a click or two opposite rudder trim & repeat the straightline test. Keep repeating until it doesn't dive off.
3- If this works, when you get her down again, I'd suggest mechanically re-setting (pushrod adjustment) your ruddervator positions - meaning one or both. Even if they appear to the eye to be aligned straight!

Seeing as how we're dealing with not one rudder but 2, in effect, the chances of their being 'off' mechanically & equating to, aerodynamically -- and the fact it only takes a wee bit with all the leverage back there, just seems to make this exponentially more culpable as causing the dive-off problem.

I've got a good feeling about this. I'm hoping you 'club members' will work on it & provide some feedback for us all (if you're still around & reading the thread). With my Minimoa down for the present, the focus is back on the Blaze so, hoping we can get these issues resolved for once & for all!
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 02:39 AM
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I'm not convinced its rudder causing the roll to the right because when you apply rudder there is a notable dip in the nose and it does'nt cause the wing to dip right regardless of your rudder input. The problem with my aircraft(Dynamic-S) is a clear cut "roll right" even though the wing appears straight
I dont like the wing mount much either because if the plastic mount to foam joint is not 100% secure then the whole wing can twist on its axis.
I remember some time back I had the exact same issue with my Bixler. It tormented me to the point that I was going to bin it. Then one day at the field I went all cave man and just started twisting the wings by hand dropping the right wing angle. After all the torment it caused me it ended up only taking around twenty minutes which included about four landings and adjustments before the problem was cured. Now it flies like on rails. The Bixler problem occured after I left it leaning against a window nose down balanced on one wing tip.
I've tried a lateral balance with the Dynamic-S with no improvment, and to be honest I think flying with a lot of alieron trim is a clear fail, even though it may offer some level flight. As soon as the wind drops I'll be taking mine to the field and giving it a good twist. If I dont get it right soon I'm expecting the problem will cause a roll right tip stall and end its life.

Mick
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 09:50 AM
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Thanx for that input B47. My only flights thus far have been the maiden which involved trying to get 'er trimmed out, & coincidental discovery of the seeming 'loss-of-contact' problem set, followed by the two test flights, pre- & with-cameras aboard to try & find what was going on up there.

I might've jumped to some hasty conclusions but, from what I saw in the referenced video things just sort've 'fit', y'know? I can easily see how very small alignment differences & adjustments might make a world of difference. Plus, & I have to keep reminding myself of this, this is my first V-tail experience so, I'm still kind've learning the inner sciences of what's going on there too - which was my primary reason for buying this plane, to do just that!

Anyway, I'll be weighing it all in (including what you've told me) during the next set of test flights - planning on making some slight adjustments between which should tell me if I'm on the right track. Nothing ventured, nothing gained & all that rot!


_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
Rocket Science: Stick a match to it; see how fast it goes!
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 02:58 PM
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So the "caveman" method involves twisting the hell out the wing, eh? I may give that a try. Just received the 10x7 props and aluminum non-turbo spinner, so they will be going on tonight. Purchased the props and spinner from A Loft Hobbies which saved me about $10 over Espirit Model.
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