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The best thing you can do for yourself is invest a nickel and make a propsaver!
took me all of 3 minutes to do this and has saved me lots of dollars and frustration in broken props. I was breaking a prop on each landing, and the last time without this I took a 15 minute drive to fly with no replacement prop, flew for about 30 seconds, brang it down and broke the prop when it nosed over!! needless to say I was slightly upset with myself for not bringing an extra prop along. anyways heres the link to this miraculous device, someone pointed me to it a few months ago http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...&postid=153984 also if ya do a search for prop saver you will get many more results I havent broken a prop since
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North Carolina
Joined Jan 2003
34 Posts
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I'm sorry, I have never heard of a prop saver. I looked at those pictures. How exactly would that save a prop on a hard nose-in?
I'm trying to learn this stuff as fast as I can. Robert Quote:
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APC props: I use APC slow-flyer electric props from the local hobby store. They're glass-reinforced plastic, so they're stronger than the non-reinforced GWS props.
GWS size is usually four digits, such as XXYY. XX is the diameter in inches, and YY is the pitch in tenths of an inch. For example, a GWS 1180 is 11" diameter by 8.0" pitch. APC and most other props will be noted by XX x YY, or 11 x 8.0 (not sure if APC makes that exact size, BTW). There's some thought that the exact same size APC will give more thrust and draw more current (hotter motor, less duration) due to being less flexible than the GWS. They're also a bit more expensive, maybe $3 vs. $2, though if they survive where a GWS would break, you're money ahead. They won't mount directly to a GWS shaft, though. Prop adapters are available to fit the GWS shaft, though some have successfully used silicone fuel tubing as a bushing to center the wider APC mounting hole. I wouldn't do that though, as it could cause an unbalanced, wobbling prop that robs power. Karl |
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Space Coast
Joined Oct 2000
18,590 Posts
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As I've said a million zillion times, if you want to glue a GWS prop, do it before it breaks. Use GOOP or epoxy and make a fillet in that thin area where the prop usually breaks. That plus a prop saver should minimize the problem. You got to wonder why GWS has not fixed this problem.
![]() hoppy |
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Fort Collins, CO
Joined Sep 2002
1,061 Posts
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Gluing a prop back together sounds like a highly unsafe thing to do. Once you have an accident with one of these props you start to treat them with a lot more respect - in my case, perhaps even paranoia. It is amazing the damage that they can do to people, or just your house if they fall off or apart while spinning at the relatively low rpm that they usually are on a Slow Stick - leaving aside what they do when they are reving twice that on a lower gearing.
I had a 9x7 APC prop fly off of a speed 400 geared 2:1 due to a loose hex nut (I couldn't find the right size hex wrench so I used a smaller one and couldn't tighten it a lot)... not sure what rpm that is, but it's probably in the 7k range. It flew just inches past me, across the room and slammed into the ceiling and stuck there like a shuriken. It was buried about 3/4" deep in the wallboard. It all happened so fast too. And I have also seen the photos of people on here who have been hit by props. Gluing sounds like a time bomb to me.... but I freely admit that I'm paranoid over these things after my incident. I like APC props better, and they are certainly tougher. But in my experience they are also harder to find - especially in a wide variety of sizes. I pick up a couple every time that I make an order from Hobby Lobby online, but other than that I use GWS props from the LHS. Probably the best reason to buy an APC slowfly prop for your GWS plane, and one that I'm shocked no one has mentioned, is that they come in a more serious looking grey color rather than neon orange. Make sure you buy the slow fly ones for your slow stick and not the easier to find high rpm ones. I think the advice about throttling down right before touchdown is the best advice though. I broke at least a dozen GWS props when I was learning, but at some point I stopped breaking them. I'm not sure what I'm doing differently, but I still nose over about every 3rd landing and the GWS props stay intact. I know that I come in under power and then just before touchdown - when the plane is 6 inches or less off the ground, I turn off the motor completely. |
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Idaho
Joined May 2002
1,067 Posts
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As you have discovered, gluing props back together isn't a great idea. Fly APC props if you can until you have a bit more experience with landing technique. The APC SF props do have a larger mounting hole, but they work on the GWS motors just fine with no modification. The GWS prop shaft comes with 2 nuts and 2 washers. Put on the first nut and bottom it against the unthreaded portion of the shaft. Next, put on the first washer. It is the same size as the recess in the back of the APC prop. Install the prop. You should be able to read the lettering on the prop from the front of the plane. Now put on the second washer followed by the second nut. Tighten everything down and the prop is nicely centered on the prop shaft. Even though I have a collection of prop adapters, I never use them on the GWS prop shaft unless I'm cutting the prop shaft for a better fit inside a cowling or some other special application. Again, assuming you have both the nuts and washers that came with the motor/gearbox the APC props will fit without adaptation. If you can't find the APC SF props locally, there are many internet sources that advertise on Ezone that can help you out.
JT |
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