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Old Dec 05, 2012, 07:53 PM
UH60 Pilot
E1Allen's Avatar
United States, KY, Fort Campbell
Joined Jan 2010
273 Posts
That would be nice, however 72 minutes was done on 21k mah I think, so mine should be 50 or so minutes on a rough guess.
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 01:51 AM
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HoosierGuy's Avatar
United States, IN
Joined Jan 2012
770 Posts
I've been flying my 35 inch pop wing more and more and have to say I love flying wings. I would like a larger one though and I've been looking at the Grim Reaper more and more. If I would get one, what is a motor that everyone recommends and prop and prop adapter? Is the Grim Reaper harder to fly than the 35 inch pop wing? I wouldn't mind buying one in January and spend the winter building it for spring.
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 05:46 AM
UH60 Pilot
E1Allen's Avatar
United States, KY, Fort Campbell
Joined Jan 2010
273 Posts
I'm not sure how the pop wing flies, I do know I flew a regular grim reaper without much issue after not flying a wing/airplane for almost 7 years. As far as building goes, just follow the directions and make sure the cg is right. Should be a fun winter build.
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 06:25 AM
wheeeeee!
elCapitan's Avatar
United States, UT, Provo
Joined Oct 2011
904 Posts
The Reaper's a dream to fly. It was my first RC aircraft, and not only was I able to learn quickly on it, but it stood up to all the beating a brand new flier gives!

CTH's website has links to its recommended parts for each plane, but generally, the 3530 1800kv motor with a 7x6 prop is pretty standard on the Reaper. Or you could go 1400kv with a 9" prop. There are lots of combos out there, though.
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 06:59 AM
Registered User
Australia, QLD, Mountain Creek
Joined May 2012
150 Posts
1. Grim Reaper paid and shipped
2. Bag of goodies from Hobbyking paid and shipped.

If there is a RC God up there both parcels will make it to Australia before Christmas so my two weeks off will consist of building, checking building tips on the net, swearing, fixing original build and hopefully a maiden in the new year.
This
Wing at the beach (6 min 38 sec)

was done with a HK wing and #16 Keychain camera, can't wait till I get my "grown up" plane in the sky
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 07:53 AM
UH60 Pilot
E1Allen's Avatar
United States, KY, Fort Campbell
Joined Jan 2010
273 Posts
My goodies from hk and cth should both arrive today... super excited about the build
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 08:04 AM
wheeeeee!
elCapitan's Avatar
United States, UT, Provo
Joined Oct 2011
904 Posts
Nice location, xmod. A reaper should be pretty fun 'round those parts.

For your build, just make sure to follow the .pdf instructions that CTH has on their website. That'll keep you straight.
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 10:04 AM
Registered User
United States, MD, Kensington
Joined Dec 2008
279 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by HoosierGuy View Post
Is the Grim Reaper harder to fly than the 35 inch pop wing?
I would say easier because it's heavier and more stable. On the other hand I would guess the wing loading is a bit higher. I let my friend fly mine when he was only a couple of weeks off the buddy box, and he did fine, at least flying lazy ovals and low passes.
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 11:46 AM
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Joined Jan 2012
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Hey XMod, is that the #16 camera with the 120 degree lens? Nice video!
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 01:30 PM
Registered User
Australia, QLD, Mountain Creek
Joined May 2012
150 Posts
Yep, it is the #16 withe the 120degree lens that sticks out proud of the case. Makes it a lot easier to clean the lens and the view is much more interesting than just straight ahead. After loosing the first one off a bixlar when the velcro let go i use velcro and a fine but stiff length of wire from the back of the case and push it through the wing/elevator/nose ect and bend it at right angles. Doesnt matter what sort of vertical landing you have ,its still there!
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 11:49 PM
UH60 Pilot
E1Allen's Avatar
United States, KY, Fort Campbell
Joined Jan 2010
273 Posts
And so it begins...
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 01:01 AM
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Australia, QLD, Mountain Creek
Joined May 2012
150 Posts
Allen, I didn't know you could use a truck battery in a GR XL
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 10:27 AM
Lee
PERFECT LANDING !!!
Lee's Avatar
USA, UT, Orem
Joined Jul 2004
8,630 Posts
We know the Gorilla Glue is popular and easy to get but we have gotten reports of Gorilla Glue failure in gluing in the spars. Apparently in some cases, over time, the G-glue turns to powder and the spars are no longer attached to the foam letting the wing flex.

There are different kinds of Gorilla Glue out there. There are different methods of activating it with water. If you have used Gorilla Glue please give some feedback:

1. Did you use the white or honey colored G-glue?
2. How much water did you use to activate the glue?
3. How did you apply the water?
4. Did you sand the spars before gluing?
5. Is the G-glue still flexible or is it hard after time?
6. Is the glue brittle or cracking?

I know the low temp hot glue is heavier but it is fast and clean compared to the G-Glue. It doesn't stain your hands or expand and push the joints apart while it cures. For the record I do not use the G-glue but use the low temp hot glue or GOOP and thin CA glue to build my planes.

Thanks for your feedback.

Lee
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 11:11 AM
KK4QIN
nightfox7's Avatar
United States, GA, Cornelia
Joined Jan 2012
1,083 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee View Post
We know the Gorilla Glue is popular and easy to get but we have gotten reports of Gorilla Glue failure in gluing in the spars. Apparently in some cases, over time, the G-glue turns to powder and the spars are no longer attached to the foam letting the wing flex.

There are different kinds of Gorilla Glue out there. There are different methods of activating it with water. If you have used Gorilla Glue please give some feedback:

1. Did you use the white or honey colored G-glue?
2. How much water did you use to activate the glue?
3. How did you apply the water?
4. Did you sand the spars before gluing?
5. Is the G-glue still flexible or is it hard after time?
6. Is the glue brittle or cracking?

I know the low temp hot glue is heavier but it is fast and clean compared to the G-Glue. It doesn't stain your hands or expand and push the joints apart while it cures. For the record I do not use the G-glue but use the low temp hot glue or GOOP and thin CA glue to build my planes.

Thanks for your feedback.

Lee
I could really see that happening actually.. i have never used gorilla glue in a place where there will be much flexing, and when i do use it (for joining balsa wings or laminating foam) i use VERY little water, because the more water you use, the more expansion and bubbles you get, and to me, that means a weaker joint, and most of the time i don't even use water, i just smear a little on both surfaces, the breathe hot air on it. Like you would to clean your glasses, and that seems to be plenty.

But, with that being said, i have never used it where there will be much flexing going on, it just seems like too brittle of a glue to me. I guess it could be better than CA, but then again i don't use it where there will be much flexing either..
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 12:14 PM
Fly Now.
United States, TX, Austin
Joined Aug 2012
41 Posts
On my DRXL build, I used low temp hot glue for the (sanded) spars as well, and it seems to be holding great. I've found that the white G-glue remains soft and flexible after curing and felt this would not be good for the spars. I did find G-glue great for the shock cord and for glueing down battery trays and anywhere I needed to fill a gap with some foam.

As suggested, I soaked the shock cord in water and tried to keep it in a small bowl as long as possible as I threaded the cord into the slit. The nylon (I think) cord doesn't really want to be wet so you kind-of have to trick it. I then put a bead of white g-glue in there. The white does not expand near as much so you don't have to be as cautious about applying too much. I then watched for expansion and added water (or sometimes glue) where I didn't see any action. Once mostly expanded but before curing you can work the glue/foam into place. I found this easier than cutting it off later, but I also ended up trimming excess as well. For battery trays, I would apply G-glue, smear it around with a smalle dowel, and then activate it with a spray bottle/mister before placing the wood or whatever down. I always added significant weight to prevent any movement due to the glue expansion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee View Post
There are different kinds of Gorilla Glue out there. There are different methods of activating it with water. If you have used Gorilla Glue please give some feedback:

1. Did you use the white or honey colored G-glue?
2. How much water did you use to activate the glue?
3. How did you apply the water?
4. Did you sand the spars before gluing?
5. Is the G-glue still flexible or is it hard after time?
6. Is the glue brittle or cracking?

I know the low temp hot glue is heavier but it is fast and clean compared to the G-Glue. It doesn't stain your hands or expand and push the joints apart while it cures. For the record I do not use the G-glue but use the low temp hot glue or GOOP and thin CA glue to build my planes.

Thanks for your feedback.

Lee
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