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Old Feb 11, 2010, 10:35 PM
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brushed gpv-1 motor

Looking to change my stock motor fb 370 on my gpv-1 with another brushed one for now, but cant remember what thread I read that someone used a different one from a mini qwadzella or something like that, which was more powerfull.can someone please correct me on which motor it was.Victor
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Old Feb 12, 2010, 01:06 AM
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cape town
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That was me. I use a Hot Bodies Minizilla motor, but they have been discontinued. My bike is up to 62km/h now with a 16T pinion.
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Old Feb 12, 2010, 09:14 AM
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That was me. I use a Hot Bodies Minizilla motor, but they have been discontinued. My bike is up to 62km/h now with a 16T pinion.
Ok thanks I may check for old stock at local hshp if not I might try a mini quake motor from duratraxx.In the future Im getting a 5200kv set from hobby partz $45 with program card.I guess you race your bike have you noticed on the steering that it will be fine sometimes and other times you need to keep corr to go in straight line.I think I know why, the collars on the str linkage have a bit of metal that extends out to center the springs but when you turn the sprg drops a bit till it touches the linkage sometimes it goes back into place but other times you have to turn other way till it seats again, have you noticed this at all check the left sprg in the pic.it doesnt happen allttm but its a pain.how much tension do put on your sprg, I now have .5 mm play and its drivable trax straigh until I want to change direction not on its own thanks to Bert frm this forum.Victor
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Old Feb 12, 2010, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by vic669 View Post
Ok thanks I may check for old stock at local hshp if not I might try a mini quake motor from duratraxx.In the future Im getting a 5200kv set from hobby partz $45 with program card.I guess you race your bike have you noticed on the steering that it will be fine sometimes and other times you need to keep corr to go in straight line.I think I know why, the collars on the str linkage have a bit of metal that extends out to center the springs but when you turn the sprg drops a bit till it touches the linkage sometimes it goes back into place but other times you have to turn other way till it seats again, have you noticed this at all check the left sprg in the pic.it doesnt happen allttm but its a pain.how much tension do put on your sprg, I now have .5 mm play and its drivable trax straigh until I want to change direction not on its own thanks to Bert frm this forum.Victor
Hi Victor,

I have noticed that at least in workbench test sessions, but not really made the connection to this phaenomenon while driving.
Something just sprang to mind a sec ago: Why don't you try setting up the steering with both collars reversed? that way the springs will seat against a flat surface instead of a rimmed one, and probably will always seat the same.
Have not tried this yet myself as I obviously just thought of it. Cannot try it in the very near future either, since all riding areas over here are covered in snow and no indoor location availlable to me atm.

For me, I will just go ahead and reverse the collars, if it doesn't improve things, I sure think it won't affect handling in a negative way either.

Other possible solution could be fixating the springs somehow to the slider piece, so the springs won't wobble about when they are relieved of tension. But I would have to figure out how to achieve that first, no clue yet....

Brgds, Bert
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Old Feb 12, 2010, 11:06 AM
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I found a small amount of ca will attach the springs to the slider.Just be careful not to get any on the sliding part and that the springs are centered so they don't hit the collars angled.
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Old Feb 12, 2010, 11:20 AM
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I found a small amount of ca will attach the springs to the slider.Just be careful not to get any on the sliding part and that the springs are centered so they don't hit the collars angled.
I was starting to think along that line too, but unfortunately, I use dampersyrup on the steering link to improve handling and stability, so for me that solution will probably not work.
Other solution that might do the trick: fabricate cusommade collars, with a cone shape. That way the spring will always center itself and settle in the same position. If the cone is not made too long, it should never touch the slider, and thus not affect steering in a negative way.

Brgds, Bert
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Old Feb 12, 2010, 01:05 PM
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Ok thanks I may check for old stock at local hshp if not I might try a mini quake motor from duratraxx.In the future Im getting a 5200kv set from hobby partz $45 with program card.I guess you race your bike have you noticed on the steering that it will be fine sometimes and other times you need to keep corr to go in straight line.I think I know why, the collars on the str linkage have a bit of metal that extends out to center the springs but when you turn the sprg drops a bit till it touches the linkage sometimes it goes back into place but other times you have to turn other way till it seats again, have you noticed this at all check the left sprg in the pic.it doesnt happen allttm but its a pain.how much tension do put on your sprg, I now have .5 mm play and its drivable trax straigh until I want to change direction not on its own thanks to Bert frm this forum.Victor
I don't have that problem any more. I changed to a Thunder Tiger steering damper.

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Old Feb 12, 2010, 01:13 PM
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Regarding the Motor: We are running a Graupner Speed 300 6V on Lipo - runs good!
(Just donīt buy the 7.2V Version, that one is slooow )
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Old Feb 12, 2010, 02:38 PM
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Regarding the Motor: We are running a Graupner Speed 300 6V on Lipo - runs good!
(Just donīt buy the 7.2V Version, that one is slooow )
Thanks guys I did think of the ca. hey how about the clearance or tightness of the sprgs Im running .5mm play.Victor
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Old Feb 12, 2010, 05:06 PM
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I run my springs just touching but no pressure on them. I also changes the collars for slightly smaller ones I had lying around from my planes as the original ones were rubbing on the chassis and causing some eratic handeling on me.
Eden
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Old Feb 13, 2010, 05:32 PM
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speed 300

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Originally Posted by Gartenzwerg View Post
Regarding the Motor: We are running a Graupner Speed 300 6V on Lipo - runs good!
(Just donīt buy the 7.2V Version, that one is slooow )
Just installed one in my bike big difference much faster, only thing now the brakes dont work right when I apply them they only go on one second and wont work again unless I speed up again. Am I missing something?Victor
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Old Feb 13, 2010, 05:41 PM
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Do you have return springs on your calipers?

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Old Feb 13, 2010, 06:23 PM
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Do you have return springs on your calipers?

I think Vic669 does not yet have the brake disc set yet. What he describes sounds to me as the unfortunately "normal" behaviour of the stock ESC.
That does indeed only apply an uncontrollable amount of braking for a very limited time, and does not brake again unless you let go of the brake, throttle a little and brake again. Braking cannot be dosed, nor can it be sustained as long as you keep on the brakes. Both my GPV-1's came with that ESC, so it's not that I had a monday-morning ESC.

Chris Nicastro or other people at Venom: Why are you still supplying the bike with this ridiculously unsuitable ESC????

Only remedy is another ESC that does have a normal brake characteristic unfortunately.

I have the brake kit installed on one of my bikes, and do not use return springs.
In fact, I run the set completely original, NO modifications other than deburring of parts (caliperbody and brake fulcrums) and they work excellent from the start, including the kit supplied servo.

Brgds, Bert
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Old Feb 13, 2010, 07:29 PM
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By rights you shouldn't need a return spring as the way the disc is turning, it naturally want to disengage the brake cam. (In saying that, I run small springs in mine)
Eden
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Old Feb 13, 2010, 08:19 PM
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By rights you shouldn't need a return spring as the way the disc is turning, it naturally want to disengage the brake cam. (In saying that, I run small springs in mine)
Eden
Correct. Apart from that, I reworked the caliper bodies and fulcrums to the point that (without cables installed) they would return on gravity alone. The servo pushes out the cables on release, and that is fully sufficient to properly disengage the brakes.

Brgds, Bert
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