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Old Oct 09, 2012, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onewire View Post
Mine tried to drink a beer one night.
Mine tried to BASE jump from the desk one night, but it wasn't because of the vibe alarm. My fault.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 11:10 PM
Need More PURPLE !!
Dejavu*Xion's Avatar
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"Sviking" His DX8 also tried to do a Kamikaze last month
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 05:53 AM
AMA 84248 since 1964
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Were it me, I would purchase 4 double A cells get the soldering iron out, and make a "stand-alone" battery pack. You just need a spare connector, Red is positive goes in the center, Black is negative goes to the outside, you don't use the Yellow, signal lead.

You really need a power source that is NOT coming in on the throttle channel. Insert the
bind plug in the Bind/Data port, plug in your power source, ( I usually use the Aux1 channel) pay attention to the flashing light, it should be nice and bright. Only use one servo, on Elevator or Rudder, or Aileron. This is the cleanest set up and it will help you
isolate where the problem is coming from. You might have a bad servo that is drawing down the current to where the bind is not taking place, so be ready to try different servos.


KKKKFL
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 06:50 AM
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Or one of these 2$ holder with a servo lead soldered to it.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 08:51 AM
AndyKunz's Avatar
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Don't put spring contacts in an airplane!

Andy
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 09:02 AM
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Zeeb's Avatar
United States, UT, Highland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freechip View Post
Or one of these 2$ holder with a servo lead soldered to it.
Hmmm.......

freechip; haven't we been through this battery holder business before with a similar answer from Andy ????
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 09:08 AM
AMA 84248 since 1964
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I concur with Andy on the spring comment. Besides, it only takes 5 minutes or so to solder up a pack. cut 3 short wires about a half inch, and strip each end.
Tin these wires and cut them a little shorter( use some nail clippers).
Tin the positive and negative sides of the battery. Here the
key is to have a heavy duty and very hot iron. You want to QUICKLY create a small
solder nub. I have some ELECTRICAL rosin that makes the solder flow easily. DO NOT
use ACID core solder. Finally, connect Positives to negative bottoms of middle batteries
and finish up with your servo lead. Red goes to positive (the nub end of the battery), black to the base of the end battery. You can get Heat shrink but I usually just do a
wrap with black electrical tape, just don't skimp.

Takes less time to do that it did for me to type these directions.

KKKKFL
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeeb View Post
Hmmm....... freechip; haven't we been through this battery holder business before with a similar answer from Andy ????
Weren't we talking about making a 4.8v pack for BINDING purposes instead of using an ESC/BEC.

I was sure that's what we were talking about, having binding issues and using an esc it was recommended to use a seperate 4.8v-6.0v pack inserted directly in the RX for binding purposes.

If you think this is wrong to do then by all means post your comment.

The previous discussion with Andy on the subject of AA cell holders was about radio use and of course as a RX pack in a plane would also apply.

Trust me after that conversation I fully understand the reason behind using or in this case not using these spring loaded holders in radio and or aircraft even if MANY radios (air) still use lose cell holders.

Nothing wrong with my post suggesting to use them for a pack to use during BINDING.

You can correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 09:19 AM
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True enough...
We were talking about Bench set up... So your comments are spot on, and you really could just use double A's. I just go the extra mile and use NiCads, which allows me to charge and come closer to the actual flight pack.

KKKKFL
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 09:23 AM
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@ Franco2fly - Infact I use my now replaced with lipo Stock OEM 4.8V NiMh pack from my DX8 as a power source for setting up my radio systems. Just made a small adapter and secured it using heat shring. The adapter is home made using a 3" small servo extension and having removed the shroud around the end with the pins, the pin spacing is the correct format for the stock tx pack connector.

In the pic it is gettting ready to be charged, being an older pic I just reused you don't see the now heatshrink connection making it a semi permanent connection.

Zero soldering involve but a little bit of plastic removal.

PS: For those that are wondering why in may not be recommended to use a AA Cell Holder for flight pack, it's because some believe that the vibrations could cause a cell to come lose out of the holder and you then lose all power.
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Last edited by freechip; Oct 10, 2012 at 09:29 AM.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 09:34 AM
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Nice pic... (worth a thousand words)
And I'll re-state for folks following the thread. A clean power source not relying on the
BEC is not only nice, it can really eliminate problems that revolve around throttle conditions for the initial stages of setting an electric model up. Not bad for Nitro either.


KKKKFL
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 09:42 AM
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Anytime I happened to use a ESC/BEC to power a system for what ever reasons other then flying. I just plug it in any channel since the bec will power the system regardless of the throttle.

The whole idea is to ensure you have a basic setup (k.i.s.s) as to avoid the least amount of possible failure when trying to figure out a problem.

Just using a direct power source just makes sense when trying to figure out what could be wrong.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 09:45 AM
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I'm sure many of the folks in the is thread are electric only flyers, so I would add a tip that having a 4 cell battery on hand for any bench setup work is a good idea, in addition to binding the receiver. Messing around programming an electric powered model using the main battery and BEC is not a good plan, unless you're actually ready to test the motor
If you have friends that fly nitro, you can always scrounge an older 4 cell pack off them, or as Freechip suggested, use a 4 cell holder for bench testing.
Pete
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pilotpete2 View Post
I'm sure many of the folks in the is thread are electric only flyers, so I would add a tip that having a 4 cell battery on hand for any bench setup work is a good idea, in addition to binding the receiver. Messing around programming an electric powered model using the main battery and BEC is not a good plan, unless you're actually ready to test the motor
If you have friends that fly nitro, you can always scrounge an older 4 cell pack off them, or as Freechip suggested, use a 4 cell holder for bench testing.
Pete
also scrounge a good in line volt meter
You will eventually find (if you do this enough) that a failure to bind is simply momentary battery depression on an old battery.
I use a partially depleted 4 cell pack and a in line meter to check out a new plane servo setups -( I do these for others so I don't want any surprises)
When you run into a binding/dragging/-stalling servo - the meter quickly drops . Well worth any extra effort.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 10:08 AM
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Past few responses are all on the money, now lets get back at the OP's problem "Failure to Bind" but just for the AR6200. I have seen this on several occasions. Early on, I was not sensitive to having the transmitter several feet away during the process. However, I have seen it once or twice when I was cognizant of the transmitter distance. Last time, I just turned everything off and started over. Cleanest of clean
would be trying to bind using a brand new ACRO slot, eliminating any previous model
mismatches.

Lets all put our 3000 mile long screwdrivers down and see what the OP has to say now that we've given him the best test environment.

KKKKFL
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