Originally Posted by ColoradoHeliNut

I think the back light goes out just a bit too fast,

Being able to adjust the back light timeout would be a nice feature to add to a future firmware release... Just keep in mind that the back light will affect battery life.

Jay

One more reason to get the 4000mah pack I guess.

Victory Pete,

A couple of thoughts. For training try P Link. If you don't want to do that, you can just flip the trainer switch until the surfaces don't jump. We train between transmitters of different types all the time. Some have digital trims, some have analog. Thus we can rarely rely on any transmitter indication. As long as the surfaces don't jump around a bunch when you flip the trainer switch, it's fine.

Of course, if both TXs are DX8s. you could go to the monitor screen where there is both an expanded scale and a numeric value for each servo. But then, if both are DX8s, you should give P Link a try so you don't have to make stuff match. OR, set up one and then copy it to the other via SD card if you prefer training in "normal" or "programmable master" mode!

Also, have you had your eyes tested within the last few years? The screen on the DX8 is not particularly hi-resolution, so each pixel IS clearly visible if you have close up vision. I'm past due for another eye exam and I know that my near vision needs additional correction, but still I can not only see each pixel, but I can clearly see the shape of each pixel and the space between the pixels.

Spektrum does mention if you are using 2 DX8 you can simply copy the model to the other for all the settings to match.

Originally Posted by Victory Pete

A sympathetic friend!
VP

As trimming is mostly done in flight, i think it would be more useful if the center beep could be more distinct as in longer.
This was a great feature on the JR9X.
Now its just a bit different than the regular trim move beeps.
When your flying your a) concentrating b) listening to your engine.
clearly distinguishable sound signals are very helpful.

Cant possibly be the same team that did the trims as did the warning alarms! (Then the center trim would also scare you to death!)

//Patrick

Originally Posted by jshall755

Being able to adjust the back light timeout would be a nice feature to add to a future firmware release... Just keep in mind that the back light will affect battery life.

Jay

Agree that, yes its good that its not on for to long preserving battery, but still think its a little short as it is.

//patrick

Speaking of making sounds distinguishable, I wish the "one minute left" chirp sounded more distinguishable from the throttle timer passing the threshold chirp.

Originally Posted by IMAC_Sweden

As trimming is mostly done in flight, i think it would be more useful if the center beep could be more distinct as in longer.
This was a great feature on the JR9X.
Now its just a bit different than the regular trim move beeps.
When your flying your a) concentrating b) listening to your engine.
clearly distinguishable sound signals are very helpful.

Cant possibly be the same team that did the trims as did the warning alarms! (Then the center trim would also scare you to death!)

//Patrick

I agree with you, the center beep is also hard to hear and distinguish.
VP

Originally Posted by Dave H.

Victory Pete,

A couple of thoughts. For training try P Link. If you don't want to do that, you can just flip the trainer switch until the surfaces don't jump. We train between transmitters of different types all the time. Some have digital trims, some have analog. Thus we can rarely rely on any transmitter indication. As long as the surfaces don't jump around a bunch when you flip the trainer switch, it's fine.

Of course, if both TXs are DX8s. you could go to the monitor screen where there is both an expanded scale and a numeric value for each servo. But then, if both are DX8s, you should give P Link a try so you don't have to make stuff match. OR, set up one and then copy it to the other via SD card if you prefer training in "normal" or "programmable master" mode!

Also, have you had your eyes tested within the last few years? The screen on the DX8 is not particularly hi-resolution, so each pixel IS clearly visible if you have close up vision. I'm past due for another eye exam and I know that my near vision needs additional correction, but still I can not only see each pixel, but I can clearly see the shape of each pixel and the space between the pixels.

Thanks for your help, yes all those ideas are great, When I turned 40 my eyes went on me overnight, I needed glasses for reading, now 5 years later my eyes have refocused a bit, they are not like when I was 25 but they improved since 40. I do need glasses to read the tiny light print in the DX8 manual, but for most reading I dont need glasses. I hate to keep bring this up but the DX6i trim bar is clearly visible, why cant they replicate it? that is all I am saying. I like it!
VP

Originally Posted by IMAC_Sweden

Agree that, yes its good that its not on for to long preserving battery, but still think its a little short as it is.

//patrick

With the advent of manufacturers now putting Lipo batteries in their Radio's, making the backlight "stay on timer" customizable within reason especially if a Lipo battery is in use...is more then a reasonable request.

While your mileage many vary...many of us have been getting a month or two run time out of a single Lipo charge in our Radio's, and have been now for over 2 years running.

So yes I agree, please make the backlighting timer customizable in the next software update.

PS - Is there an alarm to let you know that it has been left on without any input for sometime..or does it just turn itself off? That might be a good option since we are now running Lipo batteries and you don't want those to run down unattended. If this functionality is already there great.

Thanks,
-mike-

Pete,

Does the 6i have adjustable trim steps? It sounds like many of your complaints are about those and I certainly wouldn't want them to go away. With adjustable trim steps you just have to deal with the fact that one trim step corresponds to some fractional amount of pixels so it's not going to just jump from pixel to pixel on each push. Maybe there is a number you can put into the trim steps that makes them match pixel boundaries? I don't know. With the default value of 6, my DX8 has about twice the trim resolution of my DX7. I like that because so many of my 3D planes are so "trim twitchy" that on the DX7 there was often a "going up" trim and the next bump was "going down".

By the way are you getting your glasses at the drug store via trial and error or actually having your eyes checked? A professional may be able to do much better, especially if you have astigmatism or differences in your eyes.

Originally Posted by Dave H.

Pete,

Does the 6i have adjustable trim steps? It sounds like many of your complaints are about those and I certainly wouldn't want them to go away. With adjustable trim steps you just have to deal with the fact that one trim step corresponds to some fractional amount of pixels so it's not going to just jump from pixel to pixel on each push. Maybe there is a number you can put into the trim steps that makes them match pixel boundaries? I don't know. With the default value of 6, my DX8 has about twice the trim resolution of my DX7. I like that because so many of my 3D planes are so "trim twitchy" that on the DX7 there was often a "going up" trim and the next bump was "going down".

By the way are you getting your glasses at the drug store via trial and error or actually having your eyes checked? A professional may be able to do much better, especially if you have astigmatism or differences in your eyes.

My complaint is and has been this simple, The DX8 trim display is not clearly discernable whether I wear glasses or not. It doesnt have a clearly defined line in the middle of the bar graph. The DX6i's display is clearly discernable, it has a clearly defined line in the middle of the graph, that is why I like it. This has nothing to do with the adjustable trim settings, coarse adjustment or fine adjustmnet, that of course is a great feature.
VP

The "throttle out" timer function is not calibrated to the throttle stick correctly. Low stick (-100) is seen as 17%, any figure below this and the timer will not stop. (Throttle out's default is 25%).

Thats because THROTTLE out is not base on STICK POSITION BUT RATHER SERVO POSISTION.

When selected this mode uses the throttle servo output position
to activate the timer rather than the throttle stick position. This is ideal for electric
helicopter use as the timer can be paused when the output throttle position is at idle
even though the stick may not be at low stick (like during an autorotation) plus the timer
won’t turn off when doing full negative pitch maneuvers in stunt mode.

I just installed the temperature sensor on my 40 amp ESC. I used thick CA and stuck it between the fins, why not? I am impressed with how accurate the sensor is, I have digital thermometers in my house and it was right on 72 degrees. I also included a picture of my first repair to a RC plane, I had a hard landing and broke out the nose gear. I patiently replaced the broken pieces with some tiny model builders plywood and epoxy. It is now stronger than factory.
VP