Originally Posted by belouder

Here's two pics-the bottom side of the wing (aileron servos are in) and a closeup of one aileron servo. I'm building it "rock stock" as per the instructions........hammer has been moved to the garage.

And you let them use black paint underside . I have seen clearcote with stripes , double carbon ofcourse, And not much heavier than d-box ,just a bit . Would have shaved some weight . OMG .

Tuomo, the ballast is ballast on a rope, and yes, the rope is even supplied with the set. You can set up two strings, one with six and one with two brass slugs. The balance of the spacers are machined aluminium. Yes, it looks cluttered back there, but you are looking at the front stop of the ballast tube in the middle there and as I stated earlier, the servo tray longerons run lateral to the ballast tube as well. Here is a shot that somone else posted of the ballast sets they used, with wood slugs and not aluminium ones.

Recieved a great note from Heino at Tragi this AM with som einformation about the airfoil. Much as Mark pointed out earlier, it is at the flap/aileron junctiour, 8.6% thick and has 2.6% camber, and from that point from what he said, the tip is transitioning the whole time. From what he said nothing was sacred, LE radius, thichness point, camber, etc. they used X-Foil is designing the airfoil. The design was also centered around light airframes and loadings.

Marc

801 really handles well at 67oz like I have said before best landing ship I have owned, but what I really like is it's speed range it gets up and go for a 67oz ship plus a nice L/D. I flew a 57oz Artemis for some time flew good but at that weight did not have great L/D weak zooms and speed runs hit max speed in 2 seconds but she has great manners in the L/Z

sj

Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see any size specs in here. Span and area please???? 67 ounces? Awesome!

D

info here:
http://tragi.ee/tragi_801_x.htm

At 67 oz that makes the wing loading about 8.4 oz/ft^2. Wing span is 3.542m or 139.44 inches. Wing area is 1,143.9inches^2 or 7.944 ft^2.

hth

Tom? SJ? You guys bringing one to Phx?

Tom and Joe both fly one; not sure if either are going to SWC.

R,
Target

DP,
There are several (5 at latest count) in Seattle, c'mon up!!
BK

Originally Posted by Daryl Perkins

Tom? SJ? You guys bringing one to Phx?

DP,

Still up in the air about PHX as I see still open to enter. I do have a place to stay in goodyear, so it's about making the drive for me as I'm in China Lake thursday....

sj
sucks to be me

Do it, Joe!

Tom

Hope this is not a stupid question - is the fuz 2.4ghz friendly ?

Originally Posted by Roswell1

Hope this is not a stupid question - is the fuz 2.4ghz friendly ?

All Tragi's are 2.4 friendly

sj

Thanks i, get my new 801 in a couple of weeks and will go 2.4 ghz

I've taken a few pics of parts of my 801 and some of the build I'm doing. Even though this is only my second moldie build, I feel it is going rather well due to much work on the part of Tragi and very clear (albeit brief) instructions. No major screwups yet but I still have to glue the servo tray in so there is plenty of time!!

I do have to say that in reading many of the build threads on RC Groups and tips and tricks submitted by various folks including professionals such as Dave Hauch with RC Builds sure does help-I find it amazing how generous folks are with their knowledge. I feel like I have a pretty good handle on what to do. That is until I drop a hammer on a wing or glue the servo tray in backwards.......

You can see in the fuse pic the line between glass in front and carbon starting at the wing leading edge. You can also see the balast tube and how it loads-I've since pulled wires and there is plenty of room to get things in there.

Included wiring harness is well made and wires are soldered oriented towards the direction they will go-forward for the fuse, split left and right for the wing.

Things such as servo bays and fuse DB-9 connector holes need to be cut out but Tragi has provided scribed lines to indicate where to cut. I sure was nervous cutting into the first wing panel!!

Tow hook is installed and adjusted to their recomended setting. I'll file a notch to hold the ring at some point. Joiners fit very well, snug but not super tight.

In the flap servo pic, you can see the foam sub rib installed on each side of every servo bay. Pre-cut holes in the ribs for servo wires. Nice!!

Rudder ball joint is mounted-I think there might be some movement restriction on one side-will see when I set up travels. Looks to be an easy fix by knocking off some of the ball joint casting.

The instructions have a template for the cutout for flap pushrods-after following the template I didn't need to do anything else to get full movement. On my first (and only other) moldie build (a Shadow) I spent quite a bit of time working on these openings to get them just right without being too large-having the template saved a ton of time.

Control horns are threaded metal cut to the right length (all four the same) and the holes are just the right size with no threads. Include clevises fit very snug on these horns-no slop that I can tell. Instructions say to just "glue them in" so glue them in I did. Had to pump it in and out a few times to get the air bubbles to release-it was obvious when there was still air in there-they would just pop out!!

Anyway-as I mentioned above-still have to glue in the servo tray, install bat, Rx and remotes, and then balance. All in all I think it's been pretty easy but I set out to build it "as per instructions" so I didn't spend any time futzing with weight or trying to re-engineer things. Being a professional diaper changer-I just don't have the bandwidth!!

BK