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Old Sep 09, 2012, 03:16 PM
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That's alota gear !!!

They get any bigger and they'll look like the output gears in a GTSIO-520-N ! (just google it)
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 12:21 AM
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Hey you skookum 720 guys trying to get your vibe scores lower might want to check this stuff out, it's called "Omicron Gyro Pad Vibe Killer" it looks a little like Zeal........



http://www.lynxheli.com/product_info...ducts_id=22150
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 01:06 PM
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I have two heli,an Outrage550 whith SK720 mounted AFT and an HC500 with SK720 mounted forward,well Outrage have not drift
while HC500 has left and forward drift.
You noticed different behavior depending on how the SK720 is installed?
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 09:09 PM
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Lawrenceville, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by takeoff2 View Post
I have two heli,an Outrage550 whith SK720 mounted AFT and an HC500 with SK720 mounted forward,well Outrage have not drift
while HC500 has left and forward drift.
You noticed different behavior depending on how the SK720 is installed?
The unit in my TRex 500 drifted too much. Have you tried re-leveling?

Rick
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 02:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickn816 View Post
The unit in my TRex 500 drifted too much. Have you tried re-leveling?

Rick
By changing links and subtrims,but is not ok,
not satisfied with.How did you mount sk,aft or forward?
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 06:37 AM
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Lawrenceville, GA
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Originally Posted by takeoff2 View Post
By changing links and subtrims,but is not ok,
not satisfied with.How did you mount sk,aft or forward?
Aft and the bottom plate. Sometimes they need to be re-calibrated for temperature drift. If the re-leveling doesn't work, send a note to Art.

Rick
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by takeoff2 View Post
I have two heli,an Outrage550 whith SK720 mounted AFT and an HC500 with SK720 mounted forward,well Outrage have not drift
while HC500 has left and forward drift.
You noticed different behavior depending on how the SK720 is installed?
Did you mechanically adjust with the Hiller decay temporarily set to 200% so you could see exactly what mechanical adjustment was needed?

Just in case you haven't seen the method before:

Make sure you have no cyclic trim on the TX. Set your Hiller decay to 200% which will loosen the heli up and make it fly more like FB model.

Hover and make note of ay drift, then use only the swash linkages to adjust out the drift, then set your Hiller decay back to its original settings.
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 01:16 PM
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Xrayted / Yes I did all this,without SL all are well and the heli flies well.This flew with FB,BeastX and now SK720 which makes me all kinds of problems.
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 02:10 PM
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Xrayted / Yes I did all this,without SL all are well and the heli flies well.This flew with FB,BeastX and now SK720 which makes me all kinds of problems.
Ah, so it's the SL drift you are referring to and not a drift with normal , non SL hovering.

I've always had the drift to back and left with SL, but I'm going to try a few additional hints using the 200% Hiller decay trick to see if it helps me.

Do the same as I listed above with no SL to get it perfect and then right click on cyclic tab one and choose the copy settings to cyclic tab two choice so they are identical. Verify you can switch between both banks with no difference at all and then turn SL back on in your bank of choice.

I've seen a few who claim this helps, but I haven't made it that far myself yet with my recently completed rebuild.

I tired to do the accel recal using the utility menu and it fails every single time, so I just gave up on that after weeks of trying.

If all else fails I'm prepared to use Sokos method over on HF, so I can trim out the SL mode on my DX8 without messing the non SL trim up.
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 06:06 PM
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Have any of you ever tried this method ? it requires the use of turnbuckles between the servo arms and the swash.....

Quote:
To trim SL between banks try this......

Step # 1
As always start with servo arms set at 90 degrees using the servo trim % in the SK720 USB interface or GUI, NOT IN THE TX ! (this stuff you already know and i'm shure there will be more lol).
once that is done then level the swash at the middle of its travel range using servo links (we will call these turnbuckles from this point on !) of "exactly" the same length by adjusting the turnbuckles (that i said you would need lol).
once the middle is set you then do the swash at the top and bottom of the swash travel range using the "GUI travel % under the swash servo tab.
At this point write down all the trip % & travel % under the swash servo tab (just in case)


step # 2
Now set hiller decay to 200 % and the self leveling to 100% on your bail-out bank (this is just temporary).
Now hover the heli (make shure the TX trims are at zero or disabled)
and trim the heli for a neutral hover once more using the servo trim % in the SK720 USB interface or GUI under the swash servos tab. (this hover triming should be done in a little to no wind environment for best results)


step # 3
Now switch to the non bail-out bank and set the hiller decay at 200 % but set the self leveling to 0 % (this is just temporary).
Now hover the heli (make shure the TX trims are at zero or disabled)
and trim the heli for a neutral hover THIS TIME by adjusting the servo to swash link turnbuckles. (this hover triming should be done in a little to no wind environment for best results)


step # 4
Now reset hiller decay back to where you like it and set the self leveling bank to 80 to 90 % self leveling and set the NON self leveling bank to 10 to 20 % self leveling.


step # 5
Now drift between banks should be gone !
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 07:17 PM
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Also once you are switching between identical banks and playing with your SL. If the SL drift continues you can tie the two separate flying manners together closer. Lets say you did the 200 setup procedure and now your heli is locked in without SL. Now when you hit SL it goes off on any tangent. Now what you want to do is to toggle quickly between the two settings. One SL and one normal. This actually pulls the two settings together closer. Kind of a backdoor cheat method but it works and no one has explained it to me fully. Sometimes it takes a few tries at this toggling a dozen or so times rapidly. But you will notice a difference! Now go back and run it again in norm and set the gains back to 200 and level the heli again. Then do the same thing as before, and now it should be close. Real close. The only way to get it dead on now is to either play with the linkage in SL to bullseye it. Or relevel the accellerometers. And doing this almost takes a digital gauge that is setup perfectly or an insanely accurate professional bubble level. It also has to be level with earth grav, and with the mainshaft at 90deg in all axis. Then the surface it is mounted on has to also be at an exact level angle, which is why I index my frames. When I do mine I do it with the vibe layers intact. As this can also slightly tilt the Sk720. As can wire pressure from the incoming servo/esc leads.

Most guys aren't as anal as I am and only want the heli to come relatively flat for a moment so they can save it and move on. And even when SL is perfect it is subject to wind currents and slight drifting either due to mechanical slop (such as the swash/grips, ect ect ect) or even long term temperature drifting when flying in SL for extended periods over 10min at full SL. I have even had prop wash upset the heli and move it around when hovering in one spot for too long.
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis View Post
Also once you are switching between identical banks and playing with your SL. If the SL drift continues you can tie the two separate flying manners together closer. Lets say you did the 200 setup procedure and now your heli is locked in without SL. Now when you hit SL it goes off on any tangent. Now what you want to do is to toggle quickly between the two settings. One SL and one normal. This actually pulls the two settings together closer. Kind of a backdoor cheat method but it works and no one has explained it to me fully. Sometimes it takes a few tries at this toggling a dozen or so times rapidly. But you will notice a difference! Now go back and run it again in norm and set the gains back to 200 and level the heli again. Then do the same thing as before, and now it should be close. Real close. The only way to get it dead on now is to either play with the linkage in SL to bullseye it. Or relevel the accellerometers. And doing this almost takes a digital gauge that is setup perfectly or an insanely accurate professional bubble level. It also has to be level with earth grav, and with the mainshaft at 90deg in all axis. Then the surface it is mounted on has to also be at an exact level angle, which is why I index my frames. When I do mine I do it with the vibe layers intact. As this can also slightly tilt the Sk720. As can wire pressure from the incoming servo/esc leads.

Most guys aren't as anal as I am and only want the heli to come relatively flat for a moment so they can save it and move on. And even when SL is perfect it is subject to wind currents and slight drifting either due to mechanical slop (such as the swash/grips, ect ect ect) or even long term temperature drifting when flying in SL for extended periods over 10min at full SL. I have even had prop wash upset the heli and move it around when hovering in one spot for too long.
Is the toggling done during flight, or on the bench?
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 12:14 PM
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I do mine on the bench, Just safer this way. Then test flight it immediately afterwords.
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 01:20 PM
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I do mine on the bench, Just safer this way. Then test flight it immediately afterwords.
Got it, thanks!
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Xrayted View Post
Got it, thanks!
What part of Atlanta? Have we met?

Rick
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