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Old Feb 06, 2010, 01:14 PM
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United States, OH, Loveland
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Fun Cub

Do you have any idea when the Fun Cub will be available in the USA?
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Old Feb 10, 2010, 02:08 PM
Hitec/Multiplex USA
MikeMayberry's Avatar
Poway, California, United States
Joined Sep 2000
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Same answer for all the new MPX stuff...

No firm dates are available at this time... I'm thinking early summer.

Mike.
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Old Jul 30, 2011, 07:58 PM
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Elbridge, New York
Joined May 2005
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I tried this in another thread and it seemed like I was a bother so I will try my post here also.

I have a build question on my Fun Cub. It is dealing with the flaps, hinges, and control arm. The control arm like most has roughly a 30 degree angle. On most planes I assemble the angle goes toward the servo. However the instruction photos look like the angle is toward the trailing edge (pointing towards the rear of the fuselage). I have not fastened it in yet because the photos are a little unclear. How did everyone else do theirs? I good photo would be a nice reference? Thank you! I am trying to finish the building of the Fun Cub so I can have a maiden flight tomorrow.
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Old Jul 30, 2011, 09:46 PM
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Joined Aug 2002
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Multiplex Easy Cub & Fun Cub - Aileron, Elevator & Flaps Installation

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Originally Posted by zagiflyer67 View Post
I tried this in another thread and it seemed like I was a bother so I will try my post here also.
I have a build question on my Fun Cub. It is dealing with the flaps, hinges, and control arm. The control arm like most has roughly a 30 degree angle. On most planes I assemble the angle goes toward the servo. However the instruction photos look like the angle is toward the trailing edge (pointing towards the rear of the fuselage). I have not fastened it in yet because the photos are a little unclear. How did everyone else do theirs? I good photo would be a nice reference? Thank you! I am trying to finish the building of the Fun Cub so I can have a maiden flight tomorrow.
Multiplex Easy Cub & Fun Cub - Install Aileron & Elevator - Video
Multiplex Easycub questions thread.
Multiplex Easy/Fun Cub Aileron - pictures
Differential - Mechanical set-up - Correct Dutch roll and Drag.
and more under
Alan's Hobby, Model & RC FAQ Web Links

Alan T.
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Old Jul 30, 2011, 10:17 PM
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Elbridge, New York
Joined May 2005
152 Posts
Alan,

Thanks for the help. I think this might do the trick. I do have another question. The tail wheel section is one area I might have screwed things up. The directions and illustrations were very vague and I bent the straight piece and then cut it off. Then I took the small bend section and tried burying it into the rudder with some glue. I am not sure if it will rip out on my first landing or even the take off. Is there a good photo of how the tail wheel and wire is supposed to be attached?

Scott
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 12:13 AM
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Joined Aug 2002
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MPX Easy/Fun Cub Tailwheel Assembly & Replacement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zagiflyer67 View Post
Alan, Thanks for the help. I think this might do the trick. I do have another question. The tail wheel section is one area I might have screwed things up. The directions and illustrations were very vague and I bent the straight piece and then cut it off. Then I took the small bend section and tried burying it into the rudder with some glue. I am not sure if it will rip out on my first landing or even the take off. Is there a good photo of how the tail wheel and wire is supposed to be attached?
Scott
Copy from both manuals attached, not sure how to explain it any better.
Attached picture of a DIY repair (on my old Cap 232). may assist.
If rudder firmly glued in place, very lightweight similar plastic brackets should be found in LHS.
Alternate ideas :
Leaf Tailwheel Assembly - use light plastic sheet for EP
Tailwheel Assembly
DuBro Micro Spring Tailwheel - How To Fit - Pictorial

Alan T.
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Last edited by A.T.; Jul 31, 2011 at 04:14 PM. Reason: Replace jpg of DIY repair - Spellcheck..
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 12:33 PM
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Joined Jul 2009
291 Posts
Did you get to fly your Fun Cub today?

I built one last night and maidened it today - it was very windy, but it handles it fairly well. The only issue I had was that I was cooking the motor using a 13x4 wooden prop. I ended up going down to a 11x6 and this seemed to help keep it cooler. I am using an Overlander Thumper 35/36/5 1450kv which is probably a little to high on the KV rating to swing a 13 inch prop. I will try and get a more suitable motor tomorrow.....
I also had to programme about 20% down elevator into the flap mix to allow the plane to fly level with the flaps fully enaged - they don't half slow it up quick!
All in all, I love the thing! Ideal plane for just wafting around at low speeds, but with the potential for vertical performance and good aerobatics - all on a 3 cell LiPo.
What motor are you using?
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Old Aug 18, 2011, 05:59 PM
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Elbridge, New York
Joined May 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A.T. View Post
Copy from both manuals attached, not sure how to explain it any better.
Attached picture of a DIY repair (on my old Cap 232). may assist.
If rudder firmly glued in place, very lightweight similar plastic brackets should be found in LHS.
Alternate ideas :
Leaf Tailwheel Assembly - use light plastic sheet for EP
Tailwheel Assembly
DuBro Micro Spring Tailwheel - How To Fit - Pictorial

Alan T.
Alan,
thanks for the help. You probably think I am a dunce...just not very confident when building a plane. I do have another question, it is about the servos for the flaps. The manual says to mirro them and they fit in the pre-cut ares, however the servos move in opposite directions. Should I be reversing one of them meaning I need to re-cut the wing to get the servos going the right way or do I have things hooked up wrong by using a Y-harness and plugging into the Aux. Port on my receiver?

Scott
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Old Aug 18, 2011, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zagiflyer67 View Post
  • Alan, thanks for the help. You probably think I am a dunce...just not very confident when building a plane. I do have another question, it is about the servos for the flaps. The manual says to mirro them and they fit in the pre-cut ares, however the servos move in opposite directions. Should I be reversing one of them meaning I need to re-cut the wing to get the servos going the right way or do I have things hooked up wrong by using a Y-harness and plugging into the Aux. Port on my receiver? Scott
Much depends upon the Transmitter and what size receiver is to be used.
If an Aurora 9 - use spare receiver port, reassign that to flaps and mix together with one servo reversed on TX.
Easiest general purpose solution is as in post #4 above:
"Multiplex Easy Cub & Fun Cub - Install Aileron & Elevator - Video"
. 3.35 minutes into video is highlighted "Flap Servos on a "Y" Connector".
This describes enlarging one hole sideways so as to flip the servo over and mount flap horn further over to compensate, refer attached screenshot..
. Size the section of wing to be removed so as to glue as a filler in the original hole.

Alan T.
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 05:45 PM
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Elbridge, New York
Joined May 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A.T. View Post
Much depends upon the Transmitter and what size receiver is to be used.
If an Aurora 9 - use spare receiver port, reassign that to flaps and mix together with one servo reversed on TX.
Easiest general purpose solution is as in post #4 above:
"Multiplex Easy Cub & Fun Cub - Install Aileron & Elevator - Video"
. 3.35 minutes into video is highlighted "Flap Servos on a "Y" Connector".
This describes enlarging one hole sideways so as to flip the servo over and mount flap horn further over to compensate, refer attached screenshot..
. Size the section of wing to be removed so as to glue as a filler in the original hole.

Alan T.
I am using the receiver that comes with the DX6i radio. Right now I have it plugged into the AUX spot on the 6 channel receiver. I watched the video and he did cut out the area to flip the servo but before cutting I wanted to make sure that even though I am using a y-servo connector that I am not doing something else wrong before hacking away and making a non-repairable mistake.

Scott
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zagiflyer67 View Post
I am using the receiver that comes with the DX6i radio. Right now I have it plugged into the AUX spot on the 6 channel receiver. I watched the video and he did cut out the area to flip the servo but before cutting I wanted to make sure that even though I am using a y-servo connector that I am not doing something else wrong before hacking away and making a non-repairable mistake. Scott
When using a "Y" lead, both servos are receiving an identical signal which can not be split at the TX.
A few alternatives to flipping the servo:

1, Buy digital servos, one of which can be reversed using a Hitec servo programmer.
(many stores, if asked nicely, will reverse digitals without charge before dispatch or perhaps a nominal charge for reversing a standard servo e.g. Servocity )

2. A little DIY - Reverse rotation of one servo.
refer to several examples under sub section
"Servo - Modify for Retracts, Swing, Number of Turns, Ganging, Reverse & Continuous Rotation " at
"Radio Systems, Accessories, Alterations and FAQ." at:
Alan's Hobby, Model & RC FAQ Web Links


3. Obtain a reversing Y lead (has a reversing circuit built into one lead).
. Reversing Y leads are not recommended by Spektrum and may have a slight lag in the attached servo.

4. Obtain an equivalent servo with reverse rotation
(Futaba and clones thereof rotate in the reverse direction to Hitec, JR, Spektrum and majority of other brands.)


Alan T.
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Old Sep 04, 2011, 11:32 PM
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United States, VA, Rockingham
Joined Sep 2010
26 Posts
servo reverser

I ran into the same problem- how to make my Spektrum DX6i transmitter work the flaps on my Fun Cub. I bought an "EMS/JOMAR SR-2 (or SR-2Y) Jitter Free Servo Reverser" on Ebay. Their literature states that it works with NiCad or NiMH battery systems, but I have had no problems using it with my (typical) Lipo setup. I connect the two flap servos together with a Y connector and plug it into the gear slot on a Spektrum AR600 receiver. Now control the flaps with the gear switch on the transmitter. Hope this helps. Michael
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Old Oct 09, 2011, 07:35 AM
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USA, NC, Pinehurst
Joined Oct 2010
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Fun Cub control rods

OldPoppy- I just bought the Fun Cub and have started assembly. I am confused the control rods for the elev/rudder. Are they supposed to be 2plastic tubes, one inside the other, with a third wire control rod inside the smaller plastic tube? Why ? It would appear that only the small plastic tube with the wire control rod inside would be needed. Any explanation or am I missing something? John W
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Old Oct 09, 2011, 08:15 AM
Lou
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United States, VA, Waynesboro
Joined Dec 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddog View Post
OldPoppy- I just bought the Fun Cub and have started assembly. I am confused the control rods for the elev/rudder. Are they supposed to be 2plastic tubes, one inside the other, with a third wire control rod inside the smaller plastic tube? Why ? It would appear that only the small plastic tube with the wire control rod inside would be needed. Any explanation or am I missing something? John W
Here is the thread for the Fun Cub ..

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1209004

Likely to find plenty of information about assembling the plane and probably a quicker answer.
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Old Oct 09, 2011, 04:43 PM
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Joined Aug 2002
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FunCub & EasyCub - Elevator & Rudder Pushrod "Snakes"

Quote:
Originally Posted by ddog View Post
OldPoppy- I just bought the Fun Cub and have started assembly. I am confused the control rods for the elev/rudder. Are they supposed to be 2plastic tubes, one inside the other, with a third wire control rod inside the smaller plastic tube? Why ? It would appear that only the small plastic tube with the wire control rod inside would be needed. Any explanation or am I missing something? John W
Yes as per both Funcub & Easycub instructions
"4. Control “snakes”
Prepare the control snakes 54 / 56 and 55 / 57: cut the outer
and inner sleeves to length, and slip the steel pushrods 52 /
53 inside them. Install the swivel pushrod connectors in the
outermost hole of the rudder and elevator horns. Note that the
pre-formed pushrod end should be connected to the second
hole from the outside of the servo output arm. Lay the fuselage
shells down flat so that they are not distorted.
Figs. 5 - 6"

The standard outer plastic tube is used with other pushrod systems with a strong inner and metal screw in links and is used for strengthening and preventing flex in the fuselage when glued in place with the cyno as used for MPX EP models. The hole is also to large in diameter for any light weight wire pushrod by itself.
The inner tube prevents the wire flexing within the large outer tube and also ensures reduced resistance.
(In need, it can slide with the metal wire).
The inner tube by itself is not thick (strong) enough to prevent flexing and like all similar plastics becomes very brittle and easily broken when in contact with cyno glue.
Same method is used on the Easystar and other similar MPX EP models.

Alan T.
Alan's Hobby, Model & RC FAQ Web Links (quick search = Ctrl+F)
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Last edited by A.T.; Oct 09, 2011 at 05:38 PM.
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