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Old Jun 08, 2010, 07:17 AM
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Wouls i be correct in thinking that the supply from the battery goes through the Board/amp unit? if this is the case and the board/amp unit failed would i loose all power to the RX?
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Old Jun 08, 2010, 05:39 PM
ancora imparo
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It does, but there is no risk in my opinion. The current goes only through the Hall effect sensor main current path which is for all practical purposes just a short length of solid wire. I can't think of a conceivable failure mode in the Quanum that would affect your power supply. You would have to get a break in the soldered connections to the power connectors. The Hall effect sensor is solidly soldered to the Cu on the board (and you will almost certainly double up on that when you attach wires/Deans).


Have a look at the picture in post 142 here

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1192809&page=2

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Originally Posted by monkiee View Post
Wouls i be correct in thinking that the supply from the battery goes through the Board/amp unit? if this is the case and the board/amp unit failed would i loose all power to the RX?
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Old Jun 24, 2010, 01:16 PM
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Well i have finally gotton around to soldering the connections onto the temp/Amp unit, But i cannot get it to display the readings, just the same old normal screen?

Can anyone help?
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Old Jun 24, 2010, 02:24 PM
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Cchaps i have done it, i found the answer here:

Okay this is how it works:

You have to hook up the additional temp sensor to the transmitter and then rebind this to the receiver.

Once the unit has bound it works exactly as described - push the bind button to switch between volts and volts/temp/amp/Mah display.

Thanks for your help guys!
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Old Jun 24, 2010, 10:47 PM
ancora imparo
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Mine has arrived and seems to work as expected. I'll try and do some testing this weekend to see if the accuracy is OK and how the Hall effect solution compares with the Emeter precision resistor approach. These sensors seem to work fine on the AEO-RC Power Meter that I checked.

Now if only we could persuade Quanum to have a switchable screen to display nothing but the real time mAh consumed in really big digits.

Just one point, I note it sometimes takes quite a while to bind - up to a minute on occasion. If you are a bit patient it seems to eventually make it. Some of the "fail to bind" issues might just be not waiting long enough.
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkiee View Post
Cchaps i have done it, i found the answer here:

Okay this is how it works:

You have to hook up the additional temp sensor to the transmitter and then rebind this to the receiver.

Once the unit has bound it works exactly as described - push the bind button to switch between volts and volts/temp/amp/Mah display.

Thanks for your help guys!
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Old Jun 27, 2010, 06:30 AM
ancora imparo
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jul 2005
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First impression

It seems to be pretty accurate and not suffer the problems on the high cells some V1 had. Current tracks within 0.8A of my EmeterII at around 20A which is fine. Voltages over the range 3.3 - 4.2 better than 20mV worse case across the 6 cells against a 40,000 count DVM. Most are much closer.

Shows a reading of 0.2A with no current but doesn't seem to affect the mAh reading which was again within 4% of the Emeter.

I don't expect lab quality plus a radio link for $60.

This is good enough for my purposes.

John
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Old Jun 28, 2010, 07:36 PM
ancora imparo
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Brief Review

I've posted a review with some test results if anyone is interested.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1#post15424900

John
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Old Jul 02, 2010, 03:26 PM
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I sent a email to Quanum a few days ago asking for some software to allow us to change the lipo alarm voltage, i wonder if i will get a response?
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Old Nov 29, 2010, 02:57 PM
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I sent a email to Quanum a few days ago asking for some software to allow us to change the lipo alarm voltage, i wonder if i will get a response?
Any response. Why would they set it so that by the alarm goes off its too late to do something about it without potentially harming your battery.
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Old Nov 29, 2010, 05:47 PM
Southern Pride
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Any response. Why would they set it so that by the alarm goes off its too late to do something about it without potentially harming your battery.
Perhaps because the official stand of many LiPoly manufactures is that they can be dischrged down to 2.7 volts per cell. This is the same reason that most all ESCs use to have this as thier setting. Some vendors even state that 3.0 or 2.7 per cell is OK but then they never offer free replacements .

Look up the LiPoly warranty on the HK site and note what they cklaim is OK for mininum cell voltage for a new LiPoly.

Charles
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Old Dec 15, 2010, 08:45 PM
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Just ordered mine about an hour ago! I every thing works!
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