Ive broken both prop shafts... do I need new motors or can they be replaced?

Originally Posted by MadridFlyer

Ive broken both prop shafts... do I need new motors or can they be replaced?

You can buy new shafts from various internet sellers but you may have trouble getting them shipped to your location. It may be quicker to buy two new motors and ESC.

Originally Posted by Spookeay

All gone... See Thread, I lost every thing.

Cries.

My second DC-3 with home-made retracts made its maiden flight today. Everything worked and looked great. I did my own version of the tail wheel fix by CAing an old final servo gear to the top of the tail wheel assembly and added a servo horn to the splined top. The split flap was cut into the wing with a router so that it sits flush while retracted. There is a slip joint at each dihedral break. The speed controls were mounted in a cut out in the bottom leading edge next to each engine nacelle. Thank you to Callie for the nice graphics.

Hey bettsmums, she looks outstanding in the air with the mains retracted and on final with the flaps out... Great work!

Bettsmums, just wow man I may do my best to copy your landing gear idea if thats cool with you. also if you have any advise or maybe some more pics you could email me @ Asoulsdream@live.com I would really love to do this mod, also the flaps would be cool. You said you routed out the wing so the retracted flaps would be flush. did you do this with a dremal?

hey bettsmums, can you post a pic of how and where you connected the control rod from the servo to the landing gear. Looks like a great design but if you already know where is the best place to connect it that would help greatly....

just placed an order for the green C47 dynam skybus. I plan on using this aircraft specifically for FPV flying.
http://www.nitroplanes.com/60a-8931-c47-green-arf.html

Here is a rough drawing with some measurements on it if any one wants to try making their own. It is cut from 1 inch square aluminum tubing with 1/16 wall thickness. It was really easy to find on the Internet. You also need some flat aluminum 1/6 x 1/4 rod to make the trailing links. I had to saw mine out of a flat sheet. I comprimised mine a little to save aluminum where the trailing link connects by the wheel because I was getting both legs out of one length of tubing. The drawing shows this connection at a 45 degree angle which will line up more like the real one. I also didn't work with drawings . I just kind of cut away what didn't look like landing gear. Mark the aluminum tubing first. Drill all the holes before you cut any thing. I just used a 1/16 drill bit and then enlarged them during assembly to fit the 2-56 bolts tightly. Some of the saw cuts can't be made because of no access. I drilled a series of 1/16 holes and then flexed and filed until it broke. I just cleaned everything up with some files when I finished. The curved trailing link was bent in a vise by clamping a deep dish socket of slightly smaller diameter and then making the 90 degree bend around it. Then I just held it with pliers to make the 90 degree bend. The pine block between the plywood landing gear mount is positioned so that the landing gear lower leg hits it when extended. This acts as a partial lock for the lower leg. The small piece of aluminum bolted to the upper leg locks the upper joint. The servo moves about 180 degrees which locks each end of the travel so that no force should be applied to the servo gears during landing. The wheel axle is a longer 2-56 bolt with a piece of brass tubing that the wheel actually rolls on. The tubing is cut to 7/8 inch long so that it fits tight between the landing gear legs. To mount the landing gear I cut down in the foam 1/4 inch where the three fingers of the fixed gear used to be. Make the deeper cut out just the size of the plywood mounts. I epoxied the mounts and pine block to the foam. The retracts are centered on the same line as the center of the fixed gear. You need to try the height that the trailing link is above the foam. A little difference can make a big difference in how far the wheel retracts. Hold the rear mount and cycle the gear by hand until you are satisfied with both extended and retracted positions. I thought the locknuts were a little large and will probably use normal 2-56 nuts and locktite on the next set as a refit my older DC-3 with my version 1 retracts that doesn't look as good as this one

on the bottom leg of the mount I can't read how high the control rod attach point is. Looks like about 23 or 25mm but not sure???????

25mm

Originally Posted by bettsmums

25mm

Thank you very much sir!!! hope to have these done next weekend

Originally Posted by blueprint

just placed an order for the green C47 dynam skybus. I plan on using this aircraft specifically for FPV flying.
http://www.nitroplanes.com/60a-8931-c47-green-arf.html

really interested to hear how it does as an FPV rig.

My DC-3 arrives tomorrow . . . still reading the DC-3 thread (up to page 45!) and will try to incorporate many of your ideas. Great thread!

I've been in R/C since 1988, out for several years but got re-infected with the bug last fall. Really enjoying the new technology (totally electric now-- no mess, no noise!) and have several aircraft already!

I'm planning to do a Piedmont livery, too, as I'm in North Carolina.

may want to check my blog...sadly that plane was almost lost completely but its identical twin is being built as we speak! I also since the last pictures on there completed the windows which are painted black with clear plastic covering them to give them that real look.

Dynam Skybus Piedmont DC-3 N44V third flight. (4 min 36 sec)