Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 08:08 AM
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electricgeoff's Avatar
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[QUOTE=Spookeay;23282897]Grason is about your only shot I know of. You should do the colet conversion and get it over with. Put the bolt cutters to it and chop it off

Thanks Spookeay

decided to cancel the flying, it has started to rain again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Was considering this collet option, but just bought 6 props (which are available UK, but much more expensive than Stateside), so would like to go with the shaft option first. I already have a couple of small prop adaptors from other models, but the props won't fit, neither will the chrome domes.

Hadn't had a problem before yesterday, (except when I broke a blade on the boot (trunk) lip getting it out of the car) although slightly more ground clearance would help, it is not a major problem on our (very) short mown grass field. Worm casts are the biggest problem now the autumn is here.

A T B

E G
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 12:38 PM
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OK, so I've got a question for you all that are using Spektrum receivers. My buddy who turned me onto these cheap $10 Spektrum AR6100e microlight parkflyer receivers, and new I was using them in the C47, just told me that I should replace it with a full range receiver He didn't really give me a good reason why, just that he thought it would be a good idea. I'm still confused and am reaching out for ya'lls thoughts. The previous owner had a PowerUp R6100 receiver in it with apparently no problems, but my buddy suggested I swap that out with the AR6110e. Even though we only have a few flights on the C47 with no issues or brown outs on the receiver, should I purchase a high dollar receiver? Also using one in the Dynam SR22. Now I'm nervous and not sure what to do Please help. Thanks......
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by rcflyinff View Post
OK, so I've got a question for you all that are using Spektrum receivers. My buddy who turned me onto these cheap $10 Spektrum AR6100e microlight parkflyer receivers, and new I was using them in the C47, just told me that I should replace it with a full range receiver He didn't really give me a good reason why, just that he thought it would be a good idea. I'm still confused and am reaching out for ya'lls thoughts. The previous owner had a PowerUp R6100 receiver in it with apparently no problems, but my buddy suggested I swap that out with the AR6110e. Even though we only have a few flights on the C47 with no issues or brown outs on the receiver, should I purchase a high dollar receiver? Also using one in the Dynam SR22. Now I'm nervous and not sure what to do Please help. Thanks......
I'm not an expert so take this as an educated hunch, not a fact.

First, where are you getting any Spektrum receiver for $10.00? The AR6100e is listed for $49.00 at Spektrum’s site and goes for $45.00 at my LHS. Even the AR6115e, listed as a “Microlite” receiver, is $49.00. I would be leery of a receiver labeled Spectrum for $10.00

.http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/D...ID=SPMAR6100EB

http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/D...dId=SPMAR6115E

My understanding is the micro flyer receivers are made for smaller planes, not likely to fly at the same distances from the TX as most larger planes. Therefore they may not have the distance capabilities a full size receiver has.

I have AR600 receivers in both of my Skybuses. Unless you have added lights or flaps you could use one of the new AR400 full range receivers and not spend much more than for the smaller micro receivers you are buying, they are $24.99 at my LHS.

I guess if you keep your plane close in and low, you won't have any issues. However, using a “full range” receiver made for the size plane you are flying seems like a good idea in the long run.

Jim
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by rcflyinff View Post
OK, so I've got a question for you all that are using Spektrum receivers. My buddy who turned me onto these cheap $10 Spektrum AR6100e microlight parkflyer receivers, and new I was using them in the C47, just told me that I should replace it with a full range receiver He didn't really give me a good reason why, just that he thought it would be a good idea. I'm still confused and am reaching out for ya'lls thoughts. The previous owner had a PowerUp R6100 receiver in it with apparently no problems, but my buddy suggested I swap that out with the AR6110e. Even though we only have a few flights on the C47 with no issues or brown outs on the receiver, should I purchase a high dollar receiver? Also using one in the Dynam SR22. Now I'm nervous and not sure what to do Please help. Thanks......
I've been using the Spektrum compatibles for years with no problems. I have a mix of Orange Rx, the case-less ones HK used to sell and a couple of the heat shrink covered ones sold by Valuehobby.com.

With any of the non-satellite receivers it's important to mount them away from anything that would block the signal like batteries, motors etc. On my Skybus it's taped down near the wing TE.

That said, I test EVERY receiver, compatible or genuine Spektrum, in my old trainer first. I do a full power ground range check (I can get about 2300 ft. LOS at my field) and then I fly it to the limits of visibility just to make sure there isn't some QA problem with the receiver.

I've always suspected that most Spektrum problems are caused by inadequate power to the receiver and not range issues. A warning to winter flyers: subfreezing temperatures can cause very large increases in the amount of power your servos draw so make sure you have adequate BEC power! I've measured as much as triple the draw via telemetry at 10'F.
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 03:52 PM
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The Spektrum "microlight parkflyer receivers" have a limited range. If you're been flying your plane with one and having no problems, that only means that you haven't flown it beyond its safe range. That range can be measured in hundreds of feet. A "full range" RX, whether it has a satellite RX or not, has a range measured in miles. I mistakenly put a parkflyer RX into my Funjet a while back and I lost signal. Had to go marching out few hundred yards to go fetch it.
The Orange RXs are not very popular with my flying group. Too many lost planes. If flying little foamies close in, no problem, but most of the stuff we fly will generally go 1/2-3/4 mile away.
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 06:00 PM
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Thank you WVrailfan, pmullen503 & xviper for your replies and suggestions. The receivers were bought online from someone in CA I believe (my buddy purchases these). They have been tested by the seller prior to shipping and I also checked when received. They look genuine although I am aware that they are not. Anyhow, I will from now on just use these in my small foamies and replace the ones in the PZ's & Dynam with real ones (just to be safe). WVrailfan, what kind of range do you get on the AR600's. I saw redcon 2.4ghz receivers with a satellite for $30 that advertises a range of 3500 feet plus @headsuprc.com. I might look into these for the bigger planes. Thanks once again.
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 06:25 PM
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AR400, AR500, AR600 are all virtually the same RXs except for the number of channels they can drive. Do not confuse the new AR400 with the older AR400 "parkflyer". I've had my X8 flying wing equipped with the AR400 up to almost 3400' altitude based on my HobbyKing onboard altimeter. I would NOT trust a "microlite parkflyer" RX to do that. Besides a lack of range, they may also be subject to various kinds of interference.
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcflyinff View Post
Thank you WVrailfan, pmullen503 & xviper for your replies and suggestions. The receivers were bought online from someone in CA I believe (my buddy purchases these). They have been tested by the seller prior to shipping and I also checked when received. They look genuine although I am aware that they are not. Anyhow, I will from now on just use these in my small foamies and replace the ones in the PZ's & Dynam with real ones (just to be safe). WVrailfan, what kind of range do you get on the AR600's. I saw redcon 2.4ghz receivers with a satellite for $30 that advertises a range of 3500 feet plus @headsuprc.com. I might look into these for the bigger planes. Thanks once again.
Unless you are flying FPV, visibility will be an issue before radio range. I have flown my Skybus, FMS Cessna and HZ SC all as high and far out as I can and still see them well enough to fly them without any radio issues.

Jim
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 05:13 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Lincs
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Hi,
GraysonHobby have come through with the motor shafts (even to the UK. What a great company).
I've never done one before, so what's the drill?
Looks like a grub screw at the front end. Undo this and then pull old one out, slide new one back and tighten?
Any snags I might encounter?
Cheers

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Old Nov 17, 2012, 09:14 AM
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Some times you need to tap them out because they are tight on the bearings. Other times they will just come right out. Just be careful not to loose the brass shim and c clip. also when you set the set screw in the nose of the bell housing, there is a notch in the shaft. try to let the set screw hit that flat spot.
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by electricgeoff View Post
Hi,
I've never done one before, so what's the drill?
I first remove (and keep) the C clip at the back of the engine, then unfasten the grub screw at the front, and pull the bell out with the axis. The axis being ruined, I tighten it in a firm hold and try to rotate the bell till it starts to move towards the back of the bell. If it doesn't work that way, tighten the bell somwhere without distorting it and gently tab the broken axle with a hammer till it start moving. Assemble the whole thing the other way around making sure the grub screw catches in the axle's flat spot.
Good luck, Laurence
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 12:52 PM
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Forgive my ignorance, but what classification is the DC3, SR22 & C310, etc.? Parkzone classifies their products as parkflyers, but I don't see anything about the others mentioned. Just curious. Thank you......
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 03:36 PM
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electricgeoff's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Lincs
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Originally Posted by BAF23 View Post
I first remove (and keep) the C clip at the back of the engine, then unfasten the grub screw at the front, and pull the bell out with the axis. The axis being ruined, I tighten it in a firm hold and try to rotate the bell till it starts to move towards the back of the bell. If it doesn't work that way, tighten the bell somwhere without distorting it and gently tab the broken axle with a hammer till it start moving. Assemble the whole thing the other way around making sure the grub screw catches in the axle's flat spot.
Good luck, Laurence
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spookeay View Post
Some times you need to tap them out because they are tight on the bearings. Other times they will just come right out. Just be careful not to loose the brass shim and c clip. also when you set the set screw in the nose of the bell housing, there is a notch in the shaft. try to let the set screw hit that flat spot.
Thank you both for this help.

Before I get the new shafts from US, I thought I'd have a look through my 'scrap stuff' box and found 4 prop adapters/collets that fit the broken shaft. A quick search on line has produced some 3 bladed GWS props. Delivery 1-3 days!

Have chopped the good shaft off to match the broken one, as Spookeay suggested, and test fitted the adapters/collets with a nut taking the place of the prop for now. Shortened shafts both run true.

Thought this would be a good point to go to contra-rotating props, so ordered some pushers too.

Just one question from that, which way should the props rotate?

Looking from the front, should they both turn in towards the fuselage or outwards?

or does it not matter at all?

Many thanks

E G
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 04:40 PM
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USA, TX, Arlington
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Typically you would want them like this
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 05:46 PM
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bettsmums's Avatar
Jacksonville, FL
Joined Jan 2006
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Prop Rotation

Do yourself a favor and order a tractor and a pusher MAS three bladed 8x6 prop. The GWS props loose a lot of thrust because they are so flexible.

The diagram shows the correct way for counter rotating props to turn as they match the direction the tip vortex goes from the bottom of the wing to the top. The P-38 like the diagram shows actually rotated the props the opposite way the diagram shows. This was to give them better control if one engine failed.
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