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Old Oct 06, 2012, 07:05 PM
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WVrailfan's Avatar
United States, WV, St Albans
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I'm not saying Flyingwalenda is wrong. I'm just saying he is not right for everyone. As far as I know, he may be able to fly anything without any aid from technology. If so, and if he enjoys it, then he is correct, for him.

But if the guy standing next to him on the flight line flies just as well using a radio that aids his technique, that guys is doing it right also.

It's a big hobby, lots of room for different strokes.

Jim
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 07:28 PM
EIEIEIO Classic is dway ta go!
flyinwalenda's Avatar
Northeast Pa. .Heyna or No?
Joined Aug 2009
1,915 Posts
This is getting off topic. I can't fly anything ...yet but am working at it. I was taught by guys who never saw computer radios and had to learn to FLY the plane be it scale, fast darty wings, pylon racers, etc.. Can these guys fly anything...YES and they now use computer radios BUT still do not use expo. I am a firm believer not using it makes you a better pilot and using it all the time is a crutch.
This thread is about the DC-3 and using expo on it. I still say NO. No one needs it on a DC-3 be it a little foamie like this, a 40-60-90 size, 25% ,or 33%...they all fly the same and are easy on the controls when set-up properly with as mentioned the stalling at slow speeds.
Do what ever you want but I say depending on expo to fly your planes is not helping you to be a better pilot.
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 07:56 PM
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Cincinnati, Ohio USA
Joined Nov 2000
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I posted a photo a few months ago but thought I would post it again. The guys at our field LOVE this plane & like to see me fly it. The aircraft flys great & very scale & if you wants something that is aerobatic well this is NOT your plane but if you want a beautiful scale flying DC-3 then this is your bird!

P.S. - I have many flights on this aircraft & with the steerable tail wheel mod, I can taxi out to the runway & back after the flight with no problem. The most important tip & I bought the "Kit" version is to use identical motors & identical speed controller & you will have no problem.

By the way, I used the stock decals but I had Callie at Callie Graphics make up the "Eastern" & Fly Eastern Air Lines" letter graphics for me. The trickiest part is that those are INDIVIDUAL letters not connected to the letter next to it so that was a bit of challenge but none have come off yet in the air (knock on wood)
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 12:09 AM
Flick lives
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beautiful, picturesque Southern New Jersey, USA
Joined Dec 2008
473 Posts
It never ceases to amaze me, how you guys keep coming up with better and more beautiful designs and liveries for the Skybus. I'm also amazed at how helpful everyone is in this discussion. I find myself doing searches and going back in the thread to benefit from someone's knowledge and keep my ol' C-47 going! Anyone who has just started with this plane has such a wealth of information in here thanks to all you guys.

Now, as for the recent passionate discussion about rates and expo, here's my two cents. I've flown two of these models, the first using the Dynam 72MHz RTF radio with no room for adjustment and the second, using my beloved DX6i. I felt in control using both systems, but I prefer the smoothness of my DX6i with the computer assist. It gives me nice scale flights with less panic. My problem is, once I feel I'm "losing it," the urge is to throw that stick over hard in the opposite direction and then it can get pretty dicey. The computer radio is my crutch to survive those impulses and it has served me well. I've been a private pilot for 40 years, so it's not that I don't understand what you get from a control input. Flying a Cessna 172 is easier to me because of the control feel and sensory feedback. There's none of that when flying RC, it's all eye-hand and my eyes just ain't what they used to be. So, I like using rates and expo. I believe a noob flying a Skybus on her maiden will benefit from this too. It's all about what you're comfortable with, yes?
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 03:05 PM
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United States, NC, Rocky Mt
Joined Oct 2003
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I will attempt to keep clear of the radio thing. Being a real pilot as well RC is different due to lack of feeling the plane. But I prefer straight forward radio no expo or any of that. I fly stick and rudder and yes real fighter pilots depend on a computer hence why they have nothing on what WWII pilots did or could do. No im not flamming the armed forces or Air Force just telling it how it is. Most of them will admit that as well. My opinion is if you use a computer radio you cant brag about perfect landing and what not...your computer should get the credit.
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 04:54 PM
Flick lives
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beautiful, picturesque Southern New Jersey, USA
Joined Dec 2008
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@ P-51 flyby, I give lots of credit to my radio. Without it, I wouldn't be able to fly my F-15 & F-86 EDF's... They both would have been white foam confetti clouds by now. If you've seen my Y-T videos in here, you already know I'm not an RC Ace... But my DX6i sure gets me a lot of enjoyment out of my flying by helping me keep the shiny-side up.
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 08:21 PM
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United States, FL
Joined Mar 2012
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So we had our maiden flight today. I wish I could say it was uneventful, but I can't. First of all, I had my very experienced friend take the first flight. Even though I have the steerable tail wheel, he had a heck of a time keeping the plane straight. After about the fifth attempt, he was able to get it airborne. Once he got it in the air, he handed to controls over to my 10y/o via the buddy box. It seemed to handle pretty good, but I suddenly saw something fall off the plane I walked out into the field to try and find what had fallen off. It was hard to find the item since I didn't know what I was looking for. I yelled over to my son and had him fly over me so I could take a good look at the plane. I now found out what had fallen off, it was the left main gear wheel/tire Now knowing that we were going to have a probable eventful landing, my friend took over the controls, brought the plane over the grass field and landed pretty gracefully without damaging anything Further inspection revealed that the carbon fiber rod that acts as an axle had come loose and fallen out somewhere causing the wheel/tire to fall off. After some further searching, I was able to find the tire All in all, not a terrible maiden flight. It definitely could have been worse. Anyone have any suggestions on keeping the plane straight on take off? Also, the motors didn't seem to be in sink (audibly). After checking with a tach, the motors seem to be within 100rpm of each other. I'm gonna check to see if the ESC's can be synced. Maybe the slight variation of rpm is effecting the takeoff roll, although the previous owner flew it prior to us purchasing it with no noticeable issues.
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 08:33 PM
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United States, WV, St Albans
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Newer versions of the plane have a foam tail wheel. I have an older version with the hard plastic wheel and it does not track well, it will often just slide across the ground. That may be part of your ground handling problem. I plan to replace my tail wheel with a foam wheel.
While you are at it, I replaced the main wide slicks that came on my plane with better looking, and better tracking 2 1/4 inch foam wheels.

Jim
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 09:41 PM
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Canada
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There is insufficient weight on the tail wheel for it to do anything, even with it being steerable. Upon take off roll, the back end gets even lighter and you have 2 choices. One is to give it full up elevator to maintain as much weight as possible so the rear wheel can track, steerable or not. Or 2, apply more throttle and leave elevator neutral (or slight down) to get the tail off the ground so the rudder can work - initially with the wind coming off the props and then when you get a little airspeed going. This first few feet are the most challenging but once you get the hang of doing one or the other, ground steering is not a problem.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 05:48 AM
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United States, FL
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The previous owner did upgrade all three wheels with good quality ones. I now remember that my buddy was saying that the tail lifted off very quickly and there was not enough speed for the rudder to be effective. We will figure it out eventually. All planes have the own personalities don't they
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 09:58 AM
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Canada
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I can actually taxi back to the parking area on grass (if winds aren't too strong) with full up elevator and extreme rudder throws. Mind you, it looks like a drunken sailer coming home from the bar.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 01:43 PM
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United States, NC, Rocky Mt
Joined Oct 2003
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LOL I didnt have a gear come off like that in fact the exact opposite issue. I want to remove my wheels and they wont come off...guess I will have to drill it out. These DC-3's do have a odd taxi that is for sure. Makes me wish they had transmitters with two left sticks so you can use diff. thrust to taxi and correct for wind. I was thinking of going with dave brown or dubro light treaded wheels for my DC-3
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 05:30 PM
The sky is the limit
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Belgium, Vlaams Gewest, Hasselt
Joined Aug 2012
190 Posts
I fly the Belgian colored one with the Mrrcsound system (article and pictures somewhere on previous pages). Having read the thread before building, I installed tail wheel steering because I only fly on a tarmac surface, and more for the sake of good looks changed into dubro wheels all around. Tailwheel was no problem to replace, but I had to drill out the mainwheel axis. I initially replaced those with plastic ones but after a few landings they cracked, leading to a prop hitting the surface and bending the (much too long) prop shaft. I then used 4mm carbon rod axis and have not had problems since.

As from the first taxi out I noticed the airplane's tail had a mind of its own. With idle power the steerable rubber wheel worked well if not exposed to too much crosswind, but with any (taxi)power application, steering was ineffective and the tail waggled wherever it wanted. Keeping the elevator full up and using only moderate power during taxi largely eliminated that problem.

Opening the engines up for takeoff was another story, either crosswind or unequal thrust made it extremely difficult to maintain runway heading. Propwash from the engines didn't blow over the rudder, and with the tail low that rudder also didn't get any clear airflow over it untill the the aircraft reached two point (instead of 3 point attitude). It thus invariably weathervaned into the wind and if after takeoff you applied ailerons too quickly to regain runway heading, it had the tendency to tipstall and drop a wing into vertical.

After a few whisky's and long sleepless hours in bed I came to the conclusion the problem probably was caused by the 14° downthrust of the engines. During taxi and initial part of the take-off roll any power application results in much more air being blown over the horizontal stabilizer as under, creating negative pressure and thus almost cancelling any (gravity) friction of the tailwheel to steer or counteract other forces.

I thus developed a different takeoff technique, also because of the overpowered nature of this model and the desire for more scale like operation. I always taxi with stick full back and after lining up the aircraft make a dry takeoff run in my brain, forcing myself into an "unnatural" approach if things get out of hand. I mentally say 3 times RUDDER, RUDDER, RUDDER so I am well prepared to correct any deviation without aileron application because the result of the latter is often disastrous.

Now the actual takeoff. No question of opening the throttle as on many other of my planes, but VEEEERY slowly open the throttle with full back elevator allowing the airplane to accelerate down the runway with the tailwheel firmly on the ground allowing directional control. Now comes the delicate part: keeping the tail too long on the runway and the Dakota gets airborne with too low a speed for adequate lateral control. Lifting the tail too early or too abruptly and the the p-factor (gyroscopic force created by the 2 props being tilted down) and/or unequal engine power or crosswind gust, will cause your aircraft to head off one side or the other. Either you abort and try again from standstill, or open up the throttle fully to get it airborne before you get to the side of the tarmac. For the last option, keep the climb angle shallow and initially allow the airplane to choose it's direction by itself. Do not attempt to correct with ailerons until sufficient speed has built-up but use moderate rudder to just keep the wings level.

If everything runs as planned, when reaching sufficient forward speed and the plane is still accelerating down the runway, slowly release the back pressure on the stick allowing the tail to rise while applying small rudder corrections to maintain runway heading. Forget large rudder inputs because the plastic landing gear struts don't like lateral forces being applied to them. During assembly, refrain from using "hard" glues to fasten them to the wing because they will quickly show cracks and are difficult to repair. Use the "bad soft" glues you collected in other ARF's kits but didn't dare to use because you were afraid the parts would come apart (ie white FMS tubes). On the Skybus gear they are just what you need to absorb excessive forces, just check your gear after every flight, it's easy by removing the magnetic block covering your ESC's.

After the tail is in the air the airplane will accelerate even better because induced drag has been drastically reduced. At that moment, leave the throttle where it is (often barely around half throttle) and concentrate on tracking straight. If everything goes normal, the airplane will lift off by itself and climb out with a shallow angle (as the real DC3). If due to the increased and long ground roll you have trouble maintaining runway heading, at that point a slight up elevator input to clear the runway helps, but please release back to neutral immediately to allow the speed to build up.

In the air it flies nicely on ailerons, but again once on final approach, leave those ailerons neutral and pick up any wingdrop, how slight it is, with rudder. Just as before takeoff, mentally say RUDDER, RUDDER, RUDDER when you are in final approach.

This model airplane handles completely different from the real DC3 (I had a rating during the 90's) for take-off and landing, it is beautiful and rewarding but just as it's big brother requires a fine technique to operate safely.

Happy take-off and landings....
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 05:59 PM
Chop it, cut it, bash it
quitcherbitchen's Avatar
United States, CA, La Caņada Flintridge
Joined Jul 2011
5,436 Posts
What is the stock motor? 480s? Would a 450 be more appropriate? I haven't bought this kit yet and everyone seems to say it is overpowered. I already own two Eflite 450s.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 06:02 PM
Texas Buzzard
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McAllen,Texas
Joined Mar 2004
1,034 Posts
Dynam Replacement SHAFTS

Grayson Hobbies has replacement shafts for the DYNAM twin motor planes of Kv 1100. I bought two of them for my Cessna 310. Same moter as in Dynam PBY and the Cargo plane.

Google --> http://www.graysonhobby.com/catalog/...15-p-1649.html

Copy & past into google.
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