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Old Jan 26, 2010, 03:43 PM
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Super Swift FPV Wing Build

The "Super Swift" is a Maxi Swift for FPV with a few features I have created:
  • The wings are removable for transportation!
  • The wings are held together with 8 neodymium magnets on the wing spars, which provide about 10-12 lbs of holding force per wing.
  • Simplified Pan/Tilt for stripped Aiptek Action HD Camera
  • Components are mounted on a central framed "Pod" which eliminates need to carve out the wing. This should maintain wing efficiency and lift

I have drawn the whole system in Solidworks:


Closeup of the "Pod"


The "POD" frame will be laser cut out of 1/8" Garolite G-10 Fiberglass plate. The wing spars are 1/4" OD Garolite G-10 Fiberglass.

System Components:
  • Aiptek Action-HD Camera: Stripped down with pan/tilt extension cable
  • 2x TP Pro-Lite 3S2100 Batts for Motor, ESC, RX and Servo's
  • 1x TP Pro-Lite 3S1350 Battery for Video TX, Camera, future OSD, etc..
  • 25A E-Flight ESC
  • Hacker A30-28S Motor
  • 800mw Agepock 1.2Ghz TX
  • All servo's are HS-65HB

This image shows how the wing disassemble for transportation: The silver "donuts" which the spars pass through are neodymium magnets.


CAD shows that the system should weigh in just under 50oz. and have proper approximate CG.

I do need help with the following:
  • What are the dimensions of the Hacker A30-28S motor mount?
  • Accurate weight of the Maxi Swift bare wings (I don't have a scale but estimated using density of medium foam)
  • Any other input or ideas
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Old Jan 26, 2010, 05:21 PM
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As much as I like the idea of a portable swift, you really need to get at least the VTx out to the wingtips or further away from your electronics. having it that close to motor and ESC will crap out your picture not even a mile away.

The Swift weighs 390g empty.
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Old Jan 26, 2010, 06:02 PM
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BEAUTIFUL Work the Todd,

I think Trappy is right about the TX location.

I'm doing a build where I put the TX relatively close to the center-line to minimize induced yaw from the antenna drag and weight imbalance. I also wanted an easy wing removal.

I had a lot of ESC Noise on the video, I was able to filter a lot of that out but I also had a significantly reduced range on my 72Mhz R/C that I had not had in my prior builds.

Reluctantly I will be moving the TX out into the wing where I have had great results before.

Great Solid Works modeling !!
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Old Jan 26, 2010, 07:07 PM
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You can in bed the video Tx in the end of the wing on its flat side and the antenna by 90 degree vertical in the winglet. In order to keep balance video battery will go on the end of the opposite wing. You need winglets. The elevons are made of foam, if you can substitute them with similar profile made of balsa will be nice. The main battery will have 90% more chance of surviving eventual crash if is oriented perpendicular of the vector of motion .
The idea look great !
Good luck!
G
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Old Jan 26, 2010, 07:22 PM
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I did something like this on a Zagi in 2002, and had an early (crappy) 2.4ghz camera on board. Video was never good enough to fly from, but it was cool for its time. It used a 10 cell 1300 mAh nicad pack for power though I was able to put everything including the radio and charger in a normal sized suitcase with enough clothes for a week!
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Old Jan 26, 2010, 07:31 PM
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ooo, and you don't NEEED wingllets if you do this angled wingtip mod....
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1052384
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Old Jan 26, 2010, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronredbaron View Post
ooo, and you don't NEEED wingllets if you do this angled wingtip mod....
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1052384
Yes that mod may work but mean more drag, less wing surface . Swift is thick and dragy anyway
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Old Jan 26, 2010, 08:43 PM
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This is what I am doing with the 900MHz TX on my Stryker, I made the winglets out of the wreckage from my Maxi Swift.
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Old Jan 26, 2010, 10:51 PM
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Winglets: Yes I will be using the Maxi-Swift winglets, I didn't model them to conserve time. Please pretend they are there.

I will play around with the Video TX location when it comes in the mail. My thoughts are a 5-20 khz signal from the motor / ESC should not affect a 1.2Ghz transmitter, any basic high pass filter should roll that signal off. Seems you guys are speaking from experience. Maybe this is the price we pay for using cheap TX. If motor interferes I will move it out and integrate into the winglet as Tarro and Tushev suggest. That would probably throw my CG way off.

Thanks for the bare weight Trappy.

Anybody have a clue on the Hacker A30 motor mount dimensions?

-Todd
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Old Jan 27, 2010, 12:21 AM
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Tarro did you said "wreckage", what happen with your Swift?
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Old Jan 27, 2010, 04:30 PM
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Progress Update

Spent some time last evening and today finishing (or tearing apart) my Aiptek Action-HD Camera and doing the pan / tilt extension mod described this thread and helpful disassembly guide. Cable I used was this cable.

This is how it looks:


The foil was required to block out noticeable EMI noise on the extended cable, and didn't work well without it. A couple wraps clears it right up.

The stock auto focus lens assembly was removed and replaced with a standard fixed M12 lens:

The plastic piece which is glued onto the PCB and the lens screws into is a Sunex CMT107 lens holder. (Forgive the ugly glue job )

This is the (heavy) stock Aiptek lens, focus, and zoom assembly:


The only lens I had on hand is a 2.9mm lens for 1/4" CCD, and after testing its obvious the Aiptek is a 1/3" CCD, and the result is dark corners. I have ordered a new lens, and will take about a week to get it. Here is a picture taken with the Aiptek and 1/4" 2.9mm lens with dark corners.


This Saturday I will be cutting out parts for the "POD".

-Todd
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Old Jan 29, 2010, 12:16 AM
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What about joining the two vertical pieces with an horizontal "deck", glued to the two spars also? The result will make the assembly more stiff, imo.
This is how I want to do for my Slinger, and use for the motor this mount, that fits very nicely on that deck.
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Old Jan 31, 2010, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RENATOA View Post
What about joining the two vertical pieces with an horizontal "deck", glued to the two spars also? The result will make the assembly more stiff, imo.
This is how I want to do for my Slinger, and use for the motor this mount, that fits very nicely on that deck.
Thanks for the suggestion RENATOA, I will probably implement something similar to this in revision 2.
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Old Jan 31, 2010, 01:56 PM
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Update: The Saga Continues...

I have recieved the 1/8" Garolite material from McMaster, and it was extremely rigid and Ideal for the job.

Last evening I went to the Techshop to cut it out using their Epilog 45w laser. The laser was not strong enough to cut clean through the material, and could not even pierce it with 5-6 passes using my test cut:



So after wasting most of my time trying to cut the Garolite, I had to move to plan B, 1/8" Acrylic:

Laser Cut Acrylic Airframe (0 min 51 sec)



My thoughts are that the acrylic is probably just strong enough to work, but due to its brittleness would never take much of an impact. Garolite G-10 is >10x stronger than acrylic, not brittle, and would have left no concerns.

Its not all bad though. I will now be working on revision 2, and have already identified a few things I would change. I will also be investigating other options such as water-jet cutting, etc...

Also I was able to verify the frame perfectly fits the Maxi-Swift airfoil:


Anyways.... Back to the drawing board!
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Old Jan 31, 2010, 02:51 PM
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I hope is not too late, I seen today, examining your design more carefully, with much interest.
You replicated the same mistake as FlyCamOne3: pan over tilt.
Search zaguru notes and movie about this design error for more details.
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