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Joined May 2010
57 Posts
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If you move to the next 2 Exceed Opti 480 Outrunner Brushless engines, those are the ones I slected at 17 bucks and their diamter is just 1 mm larger than the stick... and a a few MM long. You do need to go back at least 53 MM.. I did 55MM, and will need to fill in 2 -3 MM in back to better brace the fire wall, maybe 1/16th sheet nylon. Disclaimer: I dont have a clue, thje rest I have deduced as to my mounting and the only way this can work.. The shaft on this engine comes sticking out the back, by the 3 wires(which part does not rotate. that goto the ESC What you see as a shaft and its spare of the same lenght and diameter are completely smooth basically and you CANT mount a prop on them, in either case they only roate when the large wire mass rotates. You may be able to undu the set screw and push it forward... not required however. The shaft at its rear end is held in place with a set screw. I have the shaft as is sticking thru a hole in the fire wall at rear, with teflon ring. My fire wall is 14.5 MM think... 2 sheets of .25 Inch Balsa biderectionally glued together. 1/4" Plywood may be better. Even though you will need in that case an angle brace. I have a 1/16 inch nylon sheet on the floor of the engine compartment. ( Next time i will use engined to make the engine fire wall adjustable as to angle... as a thought perhaps.. .. On my fire wall I left at the bottom pertruding on each side small legs and dremmed a slot in the compartment wall for the legs to fit an be epxoed in. THE KIT comes with the X motor MOUNT AND a prop ADAPTER KIT, with a 5MM shaft( normal for an engine this powerfull). The prop adpater fits on the front of the engine (provided you leave the axis shaft as is, in rear. It is thick CNC 3/8" inches with a 5MM treaded shaft held on by 3 screws to the front of the motor, along with a prop washer that fits and blue machined prop hub. The shaft cant go thru it. That is where you must mount the prop since that the only way the parts fit. With all of the pertruding forward from the firewall, the fire wall must be subtantial and tied to the sides and rear of engined compartment with balsa and epoxy ( not yet epoxied. Will take engine off ount, and expoxy Balsa( make water tight and epoxy inside of the npow large engine campartment. I added a .35 inch EPP foam on the engine hatch base and on top of the engine compartment, the engine hood will fit on. R EPP is much easier to work with. Have coated hood and out side of engine area with a water based caoting for foam, than can be apllied upto 3/8" thick and can be sanded... to make the dremmeled out areas stronger and to try to smooth this much larger engine compartment into the feselage. Butying min mages in EPP foal on Hatch sided bottom and on engne compartment walls , then expoxing in to hold hood on. I see no easy wat to mount fire wall properly and have all angles correct without engine mounted and braced to the rigght angle, so it mustbe wrapped for the process and connected to my new wore harnes(a lthough I could unscrew (2 are bolts) the engine(all my components are now set where they can be pluggedan unpluuged. So no you were close, but those were the wrong Exceed OPti 480 engines... Its the next 2 that come up. I should also like Chevron be able to swing a 9" prop. Regards . |
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Joined May 2010
57 Posts
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Quote:
If you move to the next 2 Exceed Opti 480 Outrunner Brushless engines, those are the ones I slected at 17 bucks and their diamter is just 1 mm larger than the stick... and a a few MM long. You do need to go back at least 53 MM.. I did 55MM, and will need to fill in 2 -3 MM in back to better brace the fire wall, maybe 1/16th sheet nylon. Disclaimer: I dont have a clue, thje rest I have deduced as to my mounting and the only way this can work.. The shaft on this engine comes sticking out the back, by the 3 wires(which part does not rotate. that goto the ESC What you see as a shaft and its spare of the same lenght and diameter are completely smooth basically and you CANT mount a prop on them, in either case they only roate when the large wire mass rotates. You may be able to undu the set screw and push it forward... not required however. The shaft at its rear end is held in place with a set screw. I have the shaft as is sticking thru a hole in the fire wall at rear, with teflon ring. My fire wall is 14.5 MM think... 2 sheets of .25 Inch Balsa biderectionally glued together. 1/4" Plywood may be better. Even though you will need in that case an angle brace. I have a 1/16 inch nylon sheet on the floor of the engine compartment. ( Next time i will use engined to make the engine fire wall adjustable as to angle... as a thought perhaps.. .. On my fire wall I left at the bottom pertruding on each side small legs and dremmed a slot in the compartment wall for the legs to fit an be epxoed in. THE KIT comes with the X motor MOUNT AND a prop ADAPTER KIT, with a 5MM shaft( normal for an engine this powerfull). The prop adpater fits on the front of the engine (provided you leave the axis shaft as is, in rear. It is thick CNC 3/8" inches with a 5MM treaded shaft held on by 3 screws to the front of the motor, along with a prop washer that fits and blue machined prop hub. The shaft cant go thru it. That is where you must mount the prop since that the only way the parts fit. With all of the pertruding forward from the firewall, the fire wall must be subtantial and tied to the sides and rear of engined compartment with balsa and epoxy ( not yet epoxied. Will take engine off ount, and expoxy Balsa( make water tight and epoxy inside of the npow large engine campartment. I added a .35 inch EPP foam on the engine hatch base and on top of the engine compartment, the engine hood will fit on. R EPP is much easier to work with. Have coated hood and out side of engine area with a water based caoting for foam, than can be apllied upto 3/8" thick and can be sanded... to make the dremmeled out areas stronger and to try to smooth this much larger engine compartment into the feselage. Butying min mages in EPP foal on Hatch sided bottom and on engne compartment walls , then expoxing in to hold hood on. I see no easy wat to mount fire wall properly and have all angles correct without engine mounted and braced to the rigght angle, so it mustbe wrapped for the process and connected to my new wore harnes(a lthough I could unscrew (2 are bolts) the engine(all my components are now set where they can be pluggedan unpluuged. So no you were close, but those were the wrong Exceed OPti 480 engines... Its the next 2 that come up. I should also like Chevron be able to swing a 9" prop. Regards . |
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looks like a new one is coming out by NFD hobby: http://nfdhobby.com/en/c_3.asp?lx_id=56 a video is there too of the big version (with retracts?)
Dak |
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Joined May 2010
57 Posts
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I dont Know what 790 Yuan converts to, plus shipping... and not much info there to go on |
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thanks i see why I was confused now.. I believe you meant the: Optima 400 Brushless Motor 2215-1050KV 105W D:28,L:30,shaft:3.17, I was looking for an Opti 480 not this: http://www.hobbypartz.com/75m72-opti...15-1050kv.html amazing how attaching a link can save so much typing a verbiage.. and it works in any language.. Looking fwd to seeing yous fly like it's new big brother on wheels.. Good Luck, and thanks again for pointing it out.. I will order one.. looks pretty good..and the price is right. ![]() ![]() Regards JimS |
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Joined May 2010
57 Posts
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No Jim, Its a 480! Goto the Motor section on the website. select 480 size motors.
4 of the blue 480 Exceed motors come up in that class... 2 are 250 watts and 2 are 275 watts.. the seocnd two that are under 16 bucks is what you want I apolgize .. its an Exceed Alpha motor... http://www.hobbypartz.com/480brmo.html |
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perhaps this isn't working cause you are in UK or NZ or something and I'm in the US seeing a different view but when i go to the 480 links you sent .. the Optima (not Opti) motors there (which btw are all Blue) have the shaft coming out the wrong side of the motor not the required side of the motor to X mount it against the notch cut in the fuse ... they are all protruding into the mount and on the same side as the X mount instead .. this is what I see Here (for example) .. http://www.hobbypartz.com/alpha-480-...ess-motor.html Please post a link to a single motor .. and a photo so we can get in sync Ok? I am not sure why this is so hard.. but am sure you are just trying to help.. ----- Looking more carefully at the photo it appears you can simply cut the shaft off completely and the 4 Machine screws mount the Prop adapter to the correct / opposite side of the motor body (not the shaft itself) . that would work.. Thanks.. JimS |
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here is a video:
http://static.youku.com/v1.0.0104/v/...did=-&showAd=0 All those things are true about no name company, ordering from china, etc but it might be a winner! Like you said somebody has to buy one and see... Oh, and it is made from EPO foam. Dak |
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You need to flip the shaft: to remove the c-clip then tap out shaft , try not to lose internal spacers reassemble.
Think about some type of computer radio on 2.4. No interference, more programming options: v-tail, helo engine curves, everons, etc. I like Spektrum, I got a DX6I it has a lot of different receivers to choose from. |
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I like 2.4 Gig for many reasons.. but you might want to ask in the Radio Thread.. not here.. personally i have had great luck with very cheap Assan receivers and their 2.4 Transmitter modules plugged into in either JR or Hitec Optic 6 Txmtrs, but I must caution you can spend big bucks to get converted. I'd read this : http://www.rcmodelreviews.com/2.4ghzshootout.shtml then I would ask here: http://www.rcgroups.com/radios-135/ and here.. http://www.rcgroups.com/aircraft-gen...ment-fs-w-215/ and in the Assan thread http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...ighlight=assan If I had deep pockets and pricey planes, I'd get an Aurora 9.. but i refuse to pay so much for parkflier receivers..and do not have radio link issues.. Regards,\ JimS |
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Joined May 2010
57 Posts
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Quote:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/alpha-480-...ess-motor.html Regards |
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