The new ZR3_GT CF kit from the mod shop is now available


I wanted to take an opportunity to show you our new Carbon Fiber kit that is now available on are web site. The ZR3_GT CF kit has been designed to improve the handling and durability of the s107G. To make the CF kit more stable we removed the 4mm x 1.5mm nylon bushing from the plastic main body and replaced it with a 4mm x 1.45mm brass bushing. The brass bushing has a closer tolerance over the nylon bushing and will not deform over time as the nylon bushing will. We also extended the distance between the two rotor heads from 36mm to 38mm; this is a total of 8mm gain over the stock s107 which is 30mm. We also made an improvement on the 3mm CF tail boom. With the ZR1_GT kit you needed to glue the boom into the plastic main body. This made it very difficult to remove and replace the boom. On the new ZR3_GT kit you can remove the set screw and tail boom the same way as you would with the stock s107 tail boom.
On the CF used for the ZR1_GT we use a 2k 100% carbon fiber fabric which has a very tight woven CF pattern. This makes for an extremely strong but also a little heavier CF part. We tested 4k and 6k CF fabric and found the 6k was lighter than the 2k and gave me the rigidity that I needed to make the CF main frame. I am now able to make the main frame and have them weigh out at 1.50 to 1.60gr. It’s a weight savings of another 0.75 of a gr. It’s also easier to work with and make for a more appealing CF part.

This is great to have all this input and experience. The 3 states of the light Heli pad mentions are present everytime I try it. I think that I would have noticed a hot motor but I will try all the suggestions especially cycling the battery.

Seems like the most likely culprit is the battery so I will order one up. I have read elsewhere how to take care of the battery and I am not sure I have been all that careful. Plus sitting on the shelf for an extended period might have contributed.

Since I only have one heli it might be time to get another so I can keep flying longer.

I'll let you know how I make out.

One more thing, now that you mentioned it, letting your heli sit on the shelf for an extended period of time, especially when the Lipo is not at the storage voltage could damage the Lipo. You should probably inspect the battery to see that it is not puffed.

should we store the heli on a full charge or no charge.

Neither. You want something in between.

When I put my EFlite-style lipos into storage charge, my charger sets them to about 3.8V which corresponds to something between 50% and 80% discharged I think... Full charge is 4.2V.

For the "embedded" batteries in the S107G, I typically fly for ~4 min or juuuust as the throttle response starts to feel a tad bit mushy and then I stop. Now, if I know I'm going to fly it again soon, I'll fly it longer than that. I do the above shorter flight for the "last" flight of the day.

Originally Posted by SAF_Dogface

should we store the heli on a full charge or no charge.

That's why it's important to fly all the time!! (just kidding, I had to say that)

Originally Posted by Getto Bird

That's why it's important to fly all the time!! (just kidding, I had to say that)

+1

Quoted for Truth

So it seems my s107g was facing TBE but i fixed it by changing the shaft. I had changed the blades as well after which it would fly about half a feet in the air and would never go up. upon suggestion from folks i changed back the blades to the original one but now the heli does not lift up at all. attached is the video. any guidance why this is happening?

S107G Flying problem (0 min 41 sec)

Originally Posted by ggnextdoor

So it seems my s107g was facing TBE but i fixed it by changing the shaft. I had changed the blades as well after which it would fly about half a feet in the air and would never go up. upon suggestion from folks i changed back the blades to the original one but now the heli does not lift up at all. attached is the video. any guidance why this is happening?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66eu3...ature=youtu.be

You put the blades on backwards. Swap the upper and lower blades. Near the mounting hole in each blade there should be a letter, A or B. The "A" blades go on top, the "B" blades go on the bottom.

ohhk great..thanks for the advice...didnt know that the blades were varying in size.

Originally Posted by ggnextdoor

ohhk great..thanks for the advice...didnt know that the blades were varying in size.

Always pay attention to the spin direction of the "leading" edge of the blades

Mike.

Originally Posted by Chap1012

Always pay attention to the spin direction of the "leading" edge of the blades

Mike.

D'OH!!!



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Need help s107 parts., My main body has these little white plastic brackets the screws go into to hold the body to the frame. They are broken. I see ordering a new body but cant find spare brackets. Can anyone help me.

You know what? That is the one part I haven't been able to find anywhere.

Anyway, welcome to RCG, Skipper.

I have looked up and down and I have not come across that part. I have come across a couple of broken ones during repair sessions. But they were not severely damaged and were still holding the canopy.

How bad were yours. Could you upload a couple of pictures, and perhaps we could make some suggestions as to how to patch it up or fabricate a part for it.

Originally Posted by skipper2583

Need help s107 parts., My main body has these little white plastic brackets the screws go into to hold the body to the frame. They are broken. I see ordering a new body but cant find spare brackets. Can anyone help me.

Hi Skipper, not sue of the exact location rite this second but I'm sure I have a few of them floating around from scrapped S107s/clones if I find a pair I'll send you a pair, just PM me so I don't "lose you" in this megathread.