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Old May 07, 2012, 04:28 PM
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Thanks for the great explanation. Do you have an answer about the 4.6 to 4.2 conversion on your charger? I'm quickly realizing that another, if not a faster charger, is going to be necessary.

Edit:

Just started charging. Read the directions...wow they have poor translators over there.

It mentions setting the controller and heli to the same frequency. Where is the frequency switch on the heli? I must be blind.

What's this mean. First it says to turn on the heli. Below it says:

1. Turn on the switch (me: I guess the power on the controller)
2. The motive handle (accelerator) must be pushed to the maximum control route of travel first, then adjust it to zero (lowest), after that you can turn on the power of helicopter to fly normal operation. (me: but it just said to turn on the heli first to establish a link to the controller)



Makes it sound like you have to go to max acceleration and the minimum to start flying...makes no sense.

40 minutes left.....
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Old May 07, 2012, 05:29 PM
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Joined May 2012
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Hi!

I have a problem with my JXD 340 heli's main rotor after a week. It's very hot after 5-6 seconds, and stops after 2 secs with blades on. I think it's short-circuited. Could it be replaced with the S107's main motor? It's cheaper then the JXD's.
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Old May 07, 2012, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ziocarl View Post
No problem. You helped me actually make a decision which is a big positive.

So the one step I'm confused on is how long I should fly the heli before recharging. Is what I posted above one of these super conservative suggestions or is it important to stop flying before the battery dies. How would one know when to stop if you wanted to be conservative. Is it some fixed amount of time like 10 mins, or do you just have to figure it out on each heli? What are the signs that it's ready to stop?

Thanks again. Going to try these babies out tonight...er I mean my daughter will...

Edit...wow just found this a few pages back:
"As Mike suggested, keeping the motor run times to within 5 or 6 minutes, plus giving ample cooling down periods is absolutely paramount if you want to have any sort of longivity of your motors and battery.

Karol "

Motor burn out?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Heli Pad View Post
Ha ha, you would wish that you would have 10 minutes of flight time, but I could guarantee that you will not. At best, a S107 would fly for about 6-7 minutes out of the box. More realistically, it would be 5-6 minutes tops. These are the times for continuous flight. However, you might fly in short bursts, in that case, you would see about 10 minutes of play time.

If you want to be conservative, set a kitchen timer to 5 minutes and stop flying. For me, I fly it until I see a sudden drop of altitude. You'll see it. The throttle would be at max, and you helicopter is descending. That's when I shut off. By that time, there is no point of pushing it, because it simply won't fly. If you insist of pushing it, the on board circuitry will eventually cut you off, and the motor won't spin. That is to protect you from over discharging the battery. That occurs when the voltage drops to about 3.4v.

To be safe, keep your flights around 5 minutes. Occasionally, if you reach the point of losing lift, you should stop right away.
I'd say just buy 2 or 3 more helicopters to alternate with and don't go much over 4 minutes with each copter. If you notice motors getting a little hot you are probably flying too long and batteries and motors will suffer. Get a good micro tip soldering iron and some extra batteries and motors to be safe and ready for the evnetual motor or battery failure.

John in Merrill
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Old May 07, 2012, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Squadron View Post
Hi!

I have a problem with my JXD 340 heli's main rotor after a week. It's very hot after 5-6 seconds, and stops after 2 secs with blades on. I think it's short-circuited. Could it be replaced with the S107's main motor? It's cheaper then the JXD's.
The Syma S107 runs 7mm motors for main rotors and 4mm for tail. They use 1 clockwise and 1 counter-clockwise 7mm motor. You also may need to change pinion gears to match what you have, and you will need to be able to solder the motor wires to your mainboard as these don't have plugin connectors like E-flite Blade choppers and Nine Eagles Solo Pro and Bravo SX.
If you can meet those requirements you should be able to use S107 motors.

John in Merrill
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Old May 07, 2012, 06:36 PM
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Emergency question.

Charger has gone from red to orange (350 mAh) charger. It's been about 55 minutes. Do I need to wait for it to turn green, or stop now?
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Old May 07, 2012, 06:45 PM
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Joined Mar 2008
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Originally Posted by ziocarl View Post
Emergency question.

Charger has gone from red to orange (350 mAh) charger. It's been about 55 minutes. Do I need to wait for it to turn green, or stop now?
Patience Grasshopper. Patience
It should turn green in about 30 more minutes
Mike.
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Old May 07, 2012, 06:49 PM
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ha....I feel like an expectant father.

It's now turned green with an orange glow in the middle. 68 minutes. Heli Pad was right....this charger is way too slow... unless of course the process speeds up next time.

wth, 85 minutes to charge?

75 mins...orange almost gone.
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Old May 07, 2012, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ziocarl View Post
ha....I feel like an expectant father.

It's now turned green with an orange glow in the middle. 68 minutes. Heli Pad was right....this charger is way too slow... unless of course the process speeds up next time.

wth, 85 minutes to charge?
It's a new battery/heli. The battery needs to be woken up (if woken is a word). Once it is fully charged, wait about 10 to 15 minutes before flying. Go easy on the first 4 or 5 flights keeping it to about 4 minutes MAX fly time. The charge times will become better as the battery gets broken in...."properly"

Mike.
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Old May 07, 2012, 07:04 PM
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ok.

Took 80 minutes to go green. Gonna wait the conservative 15 now to cool down, then fly for 4 minutes.
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Old May 07, 2012, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ziocarl View Post
ok.

Took 80 minutes to go green. Gonna wait the conservative 15 now to cool down, then fly for 4 minutes.
After your 4 minute flight, wait about 15 minutes and do it all over again It will charge much faster the next time around Have fun

Mike.
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Old May 07, 2012, 07:27 PM
Against Helicopter Cruelty
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Wow, Ziocarl, the performance of that charger is worse than I thought. I had a 350mA and it took as long as the USB (45 mins). Here's my suggestion to you. Since you're Prime, return the charger, get yourself the one I pointed you to. You'll be much happier.

My AC charger has one and only one red LED. The LED is out during charge. When the charge is completed. The red LED comes on, and you're done. If you don't get to it right away, no harm done, because the battery will stop the charging process when it reaches the pre-determined voltage level.

Of all the Syma S107s that I have dealt with, I never read the poorly translated manual once. With the exception of the first 2 fake ones I bought because I was new to the game, they all behave the same. Only the fakes require the throttle stick movement to initiate. None of my genuine S107 requires that.

Ditch the manual. Here is my startup procedure:
1) Choose Frequency (A/B) on Remote Control, power it on and set it down.
2) Power on the Helicopter, the green LED on the PCB will begin to blink.
3) Set the Helicopter down on a stable surface, so the gyro will initialize.
4) As soon as the gyro is initialized, the green LED goes solid.

You are ready to go. Just pick up the remote control and start flying your helicopter. If you have a 2nd helicopter and sounds like you do. Repeat the steps with the 2nd pair, but choose a different channel in the beginning of the steps.

Despite what the manual says, there is no frequency or channel select switch on the helicopter. Each one will auto-detect and sync with a channel and its commands. That process begins when you power on the helicopter. Whatever signal it sees first, that's the signal it locks onto for that session, until you power cycle it. Therefore, when you are turning on the 2nd helicopter, you daughter better not be play with her remote nearby, because the 2nd helicopter will see her control and locks on to it. Now you have both helicopters responding to the same frequency. That won't be good.

Therefore, set one pair up. Leave it sitting on the table. You can set up a 2nd pair. Then and only then will you be able to fly two helicopters at once.
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Old May 07, 2012, 08:06 PM
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Thanks for the tips! I may charge a few more times before deciding to return the ac adapter...just to see if things get better.

Weird about the start up procedure. It seemed like I actually DID have to do the full throttle and then full off before the helicopter would respond. Fake or 2012 safety modification? Will pay more attention on the second heli.

The light on the circuit board on the heli was green btw. Anything else I should look for for fake vs real determination?

So review so far...very cool! Daughter said "this is the best birthday present ever!!"

It's amazing how solidly it turns left and right...and as soon as you let of the stick, it stop turning.

Issues: light on the controller would not come on. Searched the forum and people said it was the white battery dividers. Sure enough I popped off the battery cover, and the light came on. Somehow, when I press on the bottom set of batteries, it causes a break in the circuit. Someone on here suggested tearing out the white dividers with pliers, but I was a littel scared to do that so early on, so I opened up the other heli and used its remote. Worked great. Any advice on the first controller?

One other thing that I was a little disapointed about was how slowly the heli went forward. While it rotated left and right instantly and on a dime, it took a little longer to go forward and didn't seem to go super fast forward. Of course I was figuring our how to control the thing and fighting my daughter for the controller. Will report on next flight and compare with the other heli.
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Old May 07, 2012, 08:24 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
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Hooray! I love reading your new S107G owner "blogging", ziocarl! It reminds me of when I got into this hobby with my own S107G last November.

Oh, and if the 5-7 minute fight time is too much of a drag, go and buy some more helis. That's why I have 10 of these little helis now. My son and I can go through them all in a few hours or so. His last longer because he likes to take off and land a whole lot while I keep mine buzzing overhead.

Also, I'm not sure whether your "slow" forward speed is a sign of a weak tail motor or just high expectations. You could try looking at a few Youtube videos and seeing whether the S107Gs there look like they're flying faster than yours.

If you want something a little faster in the future, should you like to start expanding your collection, I recommend considering a JXD 339. It's got two speeds of tail rotor (toggled by a button) that make it a little zippier. The IR on the JXD 339 does not not seem to conflict with the S107G so my son an I can fly them both at the same time.
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Old May 07, 2012, 08:33 PM
Against Helicopter Cruelty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziocarl View Post
Thanks for the tips! I may charge a few more times before deciding to return the ac adapter...just to see if things get better.

Weird about the start up procedure. It seemed like I actually DID have to do the full throttle and then full off before the helicopter would respond. Fake or 2012 safety modification? Will pay more attention on the second heli.

The light on the circuit board on the heli was green btw. Anything else I should look for for fake vs real determination?

So review so far...very cool! Daughter said "this is the best birthday present ever!!"

It's amazing how solidly it turns left and right...and as soon as you let of the stick, it stop turning.

Issues: light on the controller would not come on. Searched the forum and people said it was the white battery dividers. Sure enough I popped off the battery cover, and the light came on. Somehow, when I press on the bottom set of batteries, it causes a break in the circuit. Someone on here suggested tearing out the white dividers with pliers, but I was a littel scared to do that so early on, so I opened up the other heli and used its remote. Worked great. Any advice on the first controller?

One other thing that I was a little disapointed about was how slowly the heli went forward. While it rotated left and right instantly and on a dime, it took a little longer to go forward and didn't seem to go super fast forward. Of course I was figuring our how to control the thing and fighting my daughter for the controller. Will report on next flight and compare with the other heli.
Awww! That worth every penny right there. Please tell her that Heli Pad says 'Happy Birthday' to her.

I have never seen a fake with red PCB, S107R5 marking, and green LED. Therefore, I feel pretty good about yours. Today, I've preparing another S107 for a kid. Everything trimmed out nicely. The flight was precise and spot on, just like any other S107 that I've worked on. Again, never have to do full on, full off before flight. Some people call that the "calibration phase". I'd be very very surprised if you have to do it.

The S107 is a very stable helicopter. It is not going to set any speed records. Some people would go thro great lengths to make it fly fast. Personally, I wouldn't. I find precision controls more entertaining than speed. Eventually, you might want to lose the tail decoration. But that's as far as I would go. I'd keep it pretty stock.

If you're not comfortable of removing the white tabs, try a different brand of batteries. Some fit better than others. Or, add a small piece of foil between batteries for better contact area. Otherwise, the white tabs are pretty useless and unnecessary. You won't miss them too much.
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Old May 07, 2012, 10:36 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
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Originally Posted by ziocarl View Post
It seemed like I actually DID have to do the full throttle and then full off before the helicopter would respond.
Oh, I forgot I was going to comment on this. Next time you start out, turn on the S107G, wait for the little green light on the PCB to go solid, and then slowly start to give it a little bit of throttle. I mean, really slowly. Take a few seconds to get it to mid-stick. I'm really curious as to whether the PCB really requires you to give it full throttle, or else you didn't wait long enough for the helicopter to be ready before trying to bind it and get it off the ground. Like Heli Pad said, I've also never had to actually give any of my little IR helis full throttle to get them to respond. Of course, I don't have a 2012 green/white S107G but still, that seems a bit much...
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