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Old Apr 26, 2010, 11:54 AM
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Hmm... Do you think it could be on the board? I had quite a bit of trouble putting the motor
together again. But I think I got it right.

Well.. Time to pull out the magnifier and the soldering iron I guess.
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Old Apr 26, 2010, 11:57 AM
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Old Apr 26, 2010, 02:42 PM
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You got that motor back together and it works? Man, THAT'S talent! Seriously.

But if it now runs continuously, in the course of falling apart it must have shorted the driver.
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Old Apr 26, 2010, 03:04 PM
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I didn't take it apart on purpose. I crashed it. It does take a little skill to put together, but it is not impossible.

About the driver? where is that? on the PCB?

It runs continously, allthough slowly, backwards. When I apply full forward, there is no change. When I apply full backwards, it goes full speed forward. So something is seriously not right.
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Old Apr 26, 2010, 03:21 PM
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Old Apr 26, 2010, 04:08 PM
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Oy, it goes full forward when you say backward, and slow backward the whole rest of the time? I can't see how wiring alone could cause both of those, but does kinda sound like it's wired backwards.

Yeah, the driver is part of the board. On a 4ch I can point you to it and it can be replaced individually for about a dollar + intermediate soldering skill. I haven't drilled down to the inner life of 3ch electronics. Single-direction motor drive is very straightforward. Bidirectional motor drive is too (H-bridge) but I don't know how it's being implemented here.
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Old Apr 26, 2010, 04:16 PM
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Old Apr 26, 2010, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killbucket View Post
the condition in the past, and fixed it.

If part of that H-bridge is getting a bit of connection somewhere it shouldn't (as described, a wire strand not seen, or a wire grounded to chassis), you can get a slow running motor in the tail, that only responds one-direction, and it will be 180deg off what's directed.

I replaced the boards in every one of my 6020's when I got gyros for them.
Some acted up, but every one finally got working right.
I saw all kinds of interesting situations. My eyes aren't that great for soldering anymore!
Hmmm. So I will look at the board. I did have a short the first time I put the motor back together, but I turned of the helicopter real fast , so only shorted for 3-5 seconds.

I'm hoping it's the board, I could resolder whatever looks weird.

I'll give it a try.
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Old Apr 26, 2010, 04:48 PM
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Hmm

Besides being cold soldered on just about all the wires going to the board, it looks fine, no connections that aren't supposed to be there.

The rear motor is constantly getting 2.3volts just by turning on the helicopter.
I will desolder the rear motor and measure the voltage again, just to rule out faulty motor.
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Old Apr 26, 2010, 04:55 PM
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Yup... the board is still putting 2.3 volts to the rear without the motor being connected.

(I have no idea how electronics work, I can just solder and follow instructions, that explains my weird experiments. Just trying to figure out what is wrong)

Unless someone has an idea what could be wrong, I think this is going to the spares bin... spares for my... 9808? darnit, I loved the s107 so much. Well.. I better get something else then... 4 channels

Oooh... Forgot about the H-Bridge thing. Can someone show me a picture? I will try to locate it and resolder it.
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Old Apr 26, 2010, 05:31 PM
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Old Apr 26, 2010, 05:37 PM
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Well Ras, so far the track record for submicro 4chs has been pretty bleak. 107 and Firebird are my newest helis out of 9 including 2 300s and a 450 and it's my favorite. I wouldn't abandon the model. Buy the part or another whole one. You've already got a full set of parts minus the board.

3-5 seconds is an eternity for a FET to be shorted. They won't withstand more than about a second and a half at locked rotor, which is less current than a short.
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Old Apr 26, 2010, 05:41 PM
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Old Apr 27, 2010, 01:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arbilab View Post
Well Ras, so far the track record for submicro 4chs has been pretty bleak. 107 and Firebird are my newest helis out of 9 including 2 300s and a 450 and it's my favorite. I wouldn't abandon the model. Buy the part or another whole one. You've already got a full set of parts minus the board.

3-5 seconds is an eternity for a FET to be shorted. They won't withstand more than about a second and a half at locked rotor, which is less current than a short.
Well, I was thinking of going to Solo Pro or 4#3b. Putting 30$ towards something that is hardly a challenge anymore doesn't sound like good money spent(to me). It's not that I don't find the S107 fun, it is just not challenging for me anymore, and that usually means I won't use it as much.

I will take the heli apart soon, and take some good pictures of the board and then have you guys locate the part that is supposedly fried .

It may seem like alot of work, but I like that sort of work. It's cheap.
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Old Apr 27, 2010, 06:41 AM
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hi there guys, i guess this is my first post at this forum, like you guys i also addicted to the syma s107, where i come from it's really cheap only about 21 USD and it's available at any store selling children toys, we even have our own facebook fans here! I was wondering that this cheap heli is really tough, we alredy abuse this litlle guy, like 100+ crash and stuff, but it still flying good. It is so thought that we here at indonesia is trying to put our collective walkera cb100 wreck into our beloved syma. We have like 5cb100 that is crash beyond repair because it was so flimsy and the pilot also not so talented. Anyway it's a real challenge to make the first real 4 channel syma 107. Hopefully we can make more crashproof cb 107 at the end. Best regards to you all
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