Originally Posted by theholycowman

Forgive me if this issue has already been addressed but I have yet to find a solution through scouring these forums.

I got my S107 about a week ago and I am very impressed being new to mini-copters. However, as of yesterday it doesn't respond like it used to as far as elevation goes. With a full battery it struggles to reach the heights that it did when I first got it. It goes up very slowly at times and others not at all. Just kind of hovering on the ground. After reading many of the forums I realized I haven't treated my battery the way I should. I figured this was the problem till I noticed one rotation direction is very slow. The other is fast and in turn makes the helicopter rise very fast. As soon as the rotating stops it falls back down.

I checked the gears and everything from there up. To ME it seems fine. I didn't quite understand exactly what corrections were done in Sir Raleigh's "Lower Rotor Loose On Shaft Repair".

Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated!

When the lower rotor is loose you have to snap it back in place by holding the gears on the bottom and applying pressure from the flybar at the top to push that back in place... though i doubt that is a problem with yours since you say that sometimes it still is able to hover high sometimes not. Its most likely the battery so remove the canopy and see if it bubbled up, also check if you got hairs stuck in the lower part of the shaft cause that can limit your higher hover ability

It goes up.
Just tried again and the bottom rotor stops way before the top rotor quits spinning.It always did spin a little more,but now it is real noticeable.
It will fly right up to the ceiling and stay there if you want it to.You can hold it at elevation of your choice and watch it spin.

Just bought this heli and flew it several times already with no issues (getting exactly 7 ½ minutes of flight time). I was wondering about battery replacement and how easy it is. I bought several batteries from Focalprice thinking these were easy swaps while waiting to charge. I haven’t received the extra batteries yet and didn’t want to mess with all the wires and take it apart yet. It appears that you have to solder?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by Steam28

Just bought this heli and flew it several times already with no issues (getting exactly 7 ½ minutes of flight time). I was wondering about battery replacement and how easy it is. I bought several batteries from Focalprice thinking these were easy swaps while waiting to charge. I haven’t received the extra batteries yet and didn’t want to mess with all the wires and take it apart yet. It appears that you have to solder?

Thanks.

The lipo battery for this toy heli is not "swappable", must be soldered.

Originally Posted by Steam28

Just bought this heli and flew it several times already with no issues (getting exactly 7 ½ minutes of flight time). I was wondering about battery replacement and how easy it is. I bought several batteries from Focalprice thinking these were easy swaps while waiting to charge. I haven’t received the extra batteries yet and didn’t want to mess with all the wires and take it apart yet. It appears that you have to solder?

Thanks.

The best solution is Killbuckets multiple copter method, one runs out and you park it to cool then fire up another.

Originally Posted by capt

The best solution is Killbuckets multiple copter method, one runs out and you park it to cool then fire up another.

Precisely, that's how most of us do it, rotate several helis with flying and charging.

Originally Posted by BGRooster1

It goes up.
Just tried again and the bottom rotor stops way before the top rotor quits spinning.It always did spin a little more,but now it is real noticeable.
It will fly right up to the ceiling and stay there if you want it to.You can hold it at elevation of your choice and watch it spin.

you've got dog hair wrapped around the spool. find it and remove it. lube it up!

More info on battery voltages. I just charged and flew my new Phoenix 6010 tonight, and did the same battery voltage measurements that I did on the S107. The 6010 was at 3.805 V out of the box. Put it on the USB charge and took ~17 min to top it off. The charging voltage was 5.11 V at end of charge ... I think the USB charge on the 6010 is running "hotter" than the one with the S107. That's why 6010s charge up faster than S107s. Not sure if the battery in the 6010 will like it after many charge cycles or not ... time will tell.

So flew the 6010 for 6~7 min until it would not hover any more ... I do the same with the S107. Popped off canopy and felt battery and motors ... all cool, couldn't even detect any heat with my finger.

Here's the interesting part. I waited about 10 min before I measured the battery after the long flight. It as at 3.738 V.

I think the first time I measured the S107 after a long flight I didn't wait long enough for the battery to "bounce back" ... that's why I saw 3.3 V when I checked it just a couple of minutes after flight. I bet if I waited 10 min after the flight it too would bounce back up to around 3.7 V.

UPDATE - I just flew my S107 until it would not hover any more. Let it sit 10 minutes and measured the rest voltage on the battery ... it was 3.694.

Conclusion - I don't think flying it until it loses enough power to maintain a hover is going to hurt the Lipo battery. Once the heli can't hover anymore, then land it and call the flight done.

only problem with that is we have seen and heard many people doing this an having a lipo fail, And it still happens all the time.

No, that will damage the cell, running it to noticeable low power.
If you ever used nicads, treat these the opposite, and never, ever let them get weak.

Originally Posted by Hayabusa Heli

More info on battery voltages. I just charged and flew my new Phoenix 6010 tonight, and did the same battery voltage measurements that I did on the S107. The 6010 was at 3.805 V out of the box. Put it on the USB charge and took ~17 min to top it off. The charging voltage was 5.11 V at end of charge ... I think the USB charge on the 6010 is running "hotter" than the one with the S107. That's why 6010s charge up faster than S107s. Not sure if the battery in the 6010 will like it after many charge cycles or not ... time will tell.

So flew the 6010 for 6~7 min until it would not hover any more ... I do the same with the S107. Popped off canopy and felt battery and motors ... all cool, couldn't even detect any heat with my finger.

Here's the interesting part. I waited about 10 min before I measured the battery after the long flight. It as at 3.738 V.

I think the first time I measured the S107 after a long flight I didn't wait long enough for the battery to "bounce back" ... that's why I saw 3.3 V when I checked it just a couple of minutes after flight. I bet if I waited 10 min after the flight it too would bounce back up to around 3.7 V.

UPDATE - I just flew my S107 until it would not hover any more. Let it sit 10 minutes and measured the rest voltage on the battery ... it was 3.694.

Conclusion - I don't think flying it until it loses enough power to maintain a hover is going to hurt the Lipo battery. Once the heli can't hover anymore, then land it and call the flight done.

Resting voltage says little about voltage under load. You should measure voltage with full throttle after that 10 minute flight.

Originally Posted by BGRooster1

It goes up.
Just tried again and the bottom rotor stops way before the top rotor quits spinning.It always did spin a little more,but now it is real noticeable.
It will fly right up to the ceiling and stay there if you want it to.You can hold it at elevation of your choice and watch it spin.

I had some trim issues with my big Chinook until I read that removing the batteries from the Tx and waiting 30-ish seconds before re-installing them does some sort of reset. I did that and the trim restarted at a more neutral point and I was then able to trim out the spin. Not sure if that works with the S107 but I bet someone will tell me if I'm full of beans!

MMMM...Beans..

Originally Posted by salazam

you've got dog hair wrapped around the spool. find it and remove it. lube it up!

No critters in this house.That is other than the kids.lol
I checked for hair and anything else that is normal to check for.What I did notice with the tx, is that the trim controller is very wobbly.I took off the cover and had to laugh.The little board that the trim control is attached to has an L on the right side and an R on the left. The pod for the trim could be replaced if that ends up being the problem.It is even a plug and play type connection .No soldering needed.part #S107T1A.I would think the LHS may have a similar one available.

Originally Posted by dkrhardy

I had some trim issues with my big Chinook until I read that removing the batteries from the Tx and waiting 30-ish seconds before re-installing them does some sort of reset. I did that and the trim restarted at a more neutral point and I was then able to trim out the spin. Not sure if that works with the S107 but I bet someone will tell me if I'm full of beans!

Tried the battery removal test, kinda,seeing as I had the TX apart.It did not help.Thanks for trying to help guys.

I love beans