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Old Sep 27, 2010, 01:54 PM
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When I took off the cowling on my Firebird the other day to look more closely for the cause of its problems, I noticed the weight that's stuck to the double-sided tape that also holds the nose LED in place.
Couldn't this weight be removed to use a higher capacity battery and maintain the same overall flight weight?
I've never opened one of my S107's, but don't most of them also have a weight in the nose?
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Old Sep 27, 2010, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Doubletap View Post
Weight is everything for these tiny toy helicopters; there is no free ride; the heavier the flight weight will consume more energy to keep the thing aloft, so you may think you are getting 40% extra capacity or so but the battery capacity isn't proportional to actual flight duration as the system will be less efficient to carry the additional load and also when you extend flight times, you are increasing heating means your motors will and wear more quickly.
All of that makes sense but adding the battery that I have order that is 2.3g heavier than the original battery and almost double the mAh's. I am still expecting longer flight times. Not double but somewhere around 10 min. The extra weight comes out to about a 6.4% increase which is not that much, and can be compensated by reducing some weight elsewhere. I am waiting for the battery to get here so I can experiment with it in a few days and will let you know all I find out.
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Old Sep 27, 2010, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Revv View Post
All of that makes sense but adding the battery that I have order that is 2.3g heavier than the original battery and almost double the mAh's. I am still expecting longer flight times. Not double but somewhere around 10 min. The extra weight comes out to about a 6.4% increase which is not that much, and can be compensated by reducing some weight elsewhere. I am waiting for the battery to get here so I can experiment with it in a few days and will let you know all I find out.



That sounds reasonable! The problem is that most people typically believe that bigger is always better and then they'll go overboard and go too big I think the S107 should be fine with a 6.4% increase of weight over the stock battery.
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Old Sep 27, 2010, 03:02 PM
Is it charged-up yet?
Tom DB's Avatar
Miami, FL
Joined Sep 2010
85 Posts
I agree with Doubletap regarding the increased heat and wear on the motors. Also, higher RPMs to counter the extra weight will increase torque on the gears and shaft, which could lead to greater crash damage. So increasing the size of the battery seems to be a trade-off, and I'm not convinced that it is a trade for the better.

arbilab, I've been reading a lot of reviews, my "short list" seems to be getting longer each day. There is one thing you wrote in another thread which rang true: it's better to read reviews (for free) and be disappointed than to spend a hundred or more and then be disappointed. I think my biggest task is determining exactly what I want from my next heli ("does everything perfectly" is obviously off the table). To that end I just ordered the E-Sky sim for some virtual practice, maybe that will help point me in the direction I will ultimately want to go.
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Old Sep 27, 2010, 05:42 PM
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USA, NY, Dryden
Joined Feb 2010
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Having played with this for a bit....

I used the following 240mAh. 20C battery as a replacement in my S107, and I'm not all that happy with the results so far: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=7568

This battery adds a fair anount of weight, and it is installed as shown in Killbucket's website.

To reduce the weight of the bird (to try to compensate for the added weight of the new battery) the black plastic battery mount has been clipped off, and the steel weight in the front of the canopy has been removed. While the bird flies fine, it sure doesn't climb as fast as it used to, and after about 4 minutes can't get more than a few inches off of the floor, where with the original battery I can go for 5 minutes before reaching this point.

(Yes, I know, flying this long is "lipo abuse", but gives me a consistent metric I can use)

By stripping the bird WAY DOWN (removing the landing gear, and the 2 tail boom supports, and the horizontal/vertical plastic tail fins I get pretty good performance, as the weight is reduced, and I can fly for 6-7 minutes with decent climb on the 240 mAh cell.

I bought 6 of these cells from Hobby King, and suspected their quality. 1 cell puffed right away, the 4th cell I tried is far better than the first 3, and using a GOOD lipo charger (Triton EQ) I have been able to charge the cell to 204/240 mAh, not as good as I'd hope for.

Using the Triton though I was also able to verify that the yellow-USB cable really was fully charging the 240 mAh. cell. That's good!

So, while it is possible to get longer flights from higher capacity cells, I agree that you REALLY have to watch the weight. Sadly, I did not use a gram scale thru my changes.... I'll have to gather the parts, and weigh it all out, to get more data.

By the way, once you strip all that extra stuff off of the bird, and get a little weight forward, it REALLY can zip along well in forward flight, especially when banking around corners. Backwards flight suffers though, and the bird heads for the floor as you back up.

I suspect there are better/lighter batteries that may work better than the ones I tried.
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Old Sep 27, 2010, 05:51 PM
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USA, NY, Dryden
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Franken-Syma-S107.AVI (0 min 25 sec)
This link shows the 240mAh. battery on the COMPLETELY STRIPPED frame, and how poorly it holds altitude- heads for the floor after about 20 seconds of flight. Note: This bird has had LOTS of physical abuse, but all the parts are in fine mechanical shape.

The battery was doing even worse with the bird assembled, so it's not the absense of tail causing the drop!

Once I replaced this 240 mAh. cell with another one I got better/good performance, and reinstalled the tail/canopy.

With the landing gear, plastic tail surfaces, and nose weight removed it flies pretty well and is much more fun. It can fly faster & longer than with the stock battery, although the vertical climb is not quite as good as it was.

I still think there has to be better battery options than what I used!
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Old Sep 27, 2010, 05:59 PM
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As an experiment, I made a 2P pack using two smaller cells, reasoning that their combined output would be better than any single cell of similar net capacity.
Indeed, I made a powerful S107. But it has a really BAD tail-wag when steering at all, strange.
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Old Sep 27, 2010, 09:54 PM
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Joined Sep 2010
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blinking green light on radio s107

Anyone get a blinking green light on the radio when you turn it on to use it? My batteries are good. The remote won't operate the s107. I have four of them. I haven't had this happen on the others.
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Old Sep 27, 2010, 09:59 PM
Is it charged-up yet?
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Miami, FL
Joined Sep 2010
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I get the blinking green light if the throttle stick isn't in the full down position when the controller is turned on.
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Old Sep 27, 2010, 11:18 PM
Fly Runaway Fans
United States, TX, Fort Worth
Joined Jan 2009
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Tom, the Esky controller is worth having for sim, but there is another free program that has better physics, FMS. I think Phoenix is the best value purchased sim. I have Realflight 4.5, which is graphically elegant, but whether that is worth paying for is debatable (brother gave it to me).

I can survive insane antics in RF, but I wouldn't dare attempt them with $400 worth of real aircraft riding on the outcome.
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Old Sep 27, 2010, 11:43 PM
Fly heli's since 1979
Chiliwak
Joined Sep 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doubletap View Post
Weight is everything for these tiny toy helicopters; there is no free ride; the heavier the flight weight will consume more energy to keep the thing aloft, so you may think you are getting 40% extra capacity or so but the battery capacity isn't proportional to actual flight duration as the system will be less efficient to carry the additional load and also when you extend flight times, you are increasing heating means your motors will and wear more quickly.
Hi Guys,
Recieved the parts I needed (enough for 3) 107's and decided with all the hoopla over battery retrofitting to invest in the S-9051 "still indoor but much bigger" and the S-9053 even bigger still for outdoors. With Gyros I don't think there will be too much more to buy other than more spares. My jaw drops every time I read some of the post in this thread over the past day or so. Yet I find the urge to reverse engineer is a uniquely male condition I can't fault you guys as my wife had breast augmentation and I don't regret paying for it. While slightly off topic it just goes to show some of us can't leave well enough alone No!! I won't post photos Sir's
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Old Sep 28, 2010, 10:43 AM
Nice day for RC'ing
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Palmerston On. Canada
Joined Jul 2010
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And you will have to pay to replace them every ten years...Worth it? Yeah..lol
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Old Sep 28, 2010, 03:28 PM
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My black Firebird is now unflyable due to the yaw instability. It is also having some trouble with the board and or gyro intermittently.
When totally cool it can usually fly fine for a minute or so, then begins to become jittery and unstable, often spinning to the right even when using full left trim. Doesn't matter which transmitter.
Last night the gyro light would sometimes begin blinking during flight or wouldn't go steady for about 30 seconds when turning on the heli while it sat on the pad untouched.
I guess I'll just keep it for the spare parts and spare transmitter. So far though I haven't broken any parts on any of the others.
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Old Sep 28, 2010, 04:05 PM
Did you check the FAQ already?
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The Netherlands
Joined Jul 2010
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25 registered flights (and perhaps the same amount unregistered) and my S107 is still going strong. Mine has rev 3 board.
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Old Sep 28, 2010, 06:08 PM
Fly heli's since 1979
Chiliwak
Joined Sep 2010
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Originally Posted by Redfisher View Post
And you will have to pay to replace them every ten years...Worth it? Yeah..lol
Wanna start a Scrum MF bring your A$$ down to Trail BC and I'll be glad to oblige LOL and Yes That's what I"ve work for it's only $2.300 don't ever disrespect a mans wife or take the wrong tone Mr fisher
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